Awesomatix EP Touring Car (A700 Shaft Drive)
#6093
Moderator
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Outside doing things in places... Denver, CO
Posts: 4,609
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Camber links are still mounted to the bulkhead attached to the chassis, Only the diff and diff carrier rotate and move in the car.
#6094
Tech Elite
iTrader: (5)
There are quite a few things that aren't equal from full to 1/10th scale racing. Can you imagine a real car running a spool, or going 700 mph (see Worlds warm-up thread)?
Very minimal flex is probably ideal in an ideal world. The reality is that track conditions change very quickly, and quite often a tire change isn't possible, like it is in full scale racing. Given just those two issues a wider setup window is desirable, and flex in the chassis provides just that. The car will probably never be as fast as it /could/ be with a stiff chassis, but it'll probably be as fast or faster most of the time.
Very minimal flex is probably ideal in an ideal world. The reality is that track conditions change very quickly, and quite often a tire change isn't possible, like it is in full scale racing. Given just those two issues a wider setup window is desirable, and flex in the chassis provides just that. The car will probably never be as fast as it /could/ be with a stiff chassis, but it'll probably be as fast or faster most of the time.
Pavement racing is a different animal but if prepared correctly has just as much grip as carpet. Hence a stiffer chassis car would be better. On low grip i think a flexible chassis car has a large setup window so the average driver can be off but still be fast.
I'm really looking forward to our outdoor season so i can start experimenting with the A700 on low grip asphalt. For Reedy race this year I'll be starting with a setup developed for medium to high grip carpet and i have a feel it will be quite good.
#6095
Tech Adept
So after the Worlds Warm Up is history, it would be nice to here what Freddy, Josh or even Oleg if he was there have to tell us about the setup of the car.
Why not publish the Setup Sheet's?
I know there was none of them in the A main but that's not a reason to keep them secret
Maybe it will be a good starting point for all the racers starting the outdoor season.
Why not publish the Setup Sheet's?
I know there was none of them in the A main but that's not a reason to keep them secret
Maybe it will be a good starting point for all the racers starting the outdoor season.
#6096
Tech Addict
iTrader: (4)
Question on SCX2x6 and Spring Rate Screw
Hi
Was wondering if the SCX2X6 and Spring Rate Screw (SRS) in Step 9 of the build are the same ?
Also, what do most use to prevent AT21 from turning when installing the countersunk screw with no spacer ? As the chassis is recessed, there isn't much left of the hex on the AT21 to grip on to. The manual indicates the use of SF3X8 screw for this, but it seems that this screw is much too long.
Thanks in advance.
Was wondering if the SCX2X6 and Spring Rate Screw (SRS) in Step 9 of the build are the same ?
Also, what do most use to prevent AT21 from turning when installing the countersunk screw with no spacer ? As the chassis is recessed, there isn't much left of the hex on the AT21 to grip on to. The manual indicates the use of SF3X8 screw for this, but it seems that this screw is much too long.
Thanks in advance.
#6097
Tech Regular
iTrader: (10)
So after the Worlds Warm Up is history, it would be nice to here what Freddy, Josh or even Oleg if he was there have to tell us about the setup of the car.
Why not publish the Setup Sheet's?
I know there was none of them in the A main but that's not a reason to keep them secret
Maybe it will be a good starting point for all the racers starting the outdoor season.
Why not publish the Setup Sheet's?
I know there was none of them in the A main but that's not a reason to keep them secret
Maybe it will be a good starting point for all the racers starting the outdoor season.
Patrick
#6098
Moderator
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Outside doing things in places... Denver, CO
Posts: 4,609
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Hi
Was wondering if the SCX2X6 and Spring Rate Screw (SRS) in Step 9 of the build are the same ?
Also, what do most use to prevent AT21 from turning when installing the countersunk screw with no spacer ? As the chassis is recessed, there isn't much left of the hex on the AT21 to grip on to. The manual indicates the use of SF3X8 screw for this, but it seems that this screw is much too long.
Thanks in advance.
Was wondering if the SCX2X6 and Spring Rate Screw (SRS) in Step 9 of the build are the same ?
Also, what do most use to prevent AT21 from turning when installing the countersunk screw with no spacer ? As the chassis is recessed, there isn't much left of the hex on the AT21 to grip on to. The manual indicates the use of SF3X8 screw for this, but it seems that this screw is much too long.
Thanks in advance.
#6099
Tech Elite
iTrader: (44)
Hi
Was wondering if the SCX2X6 and Spring Rate Screw (SRS) in Step 9 of the build are the same ?
Also, what do most use to prevent AT21 from turning when installing the countersunk screw with no spacer ? As the chassis is recessed, there isn't much left of the hex on the AT21 to grip on to. The manual indicates the use of SF3X8 screw for this, but it seems that this screw is much too long.
Thanks in advance.
Was wondering if the SCX2X6 and Spring Rate Screw (SRS) in Step 9 of the build are the same ?
Also, what do most use to prevent AT21 from turning when installing the countersunk screw with no spacer ? As the chassis is recessed, there isn't much left of the hex on the AT21 to grip on to. The manual indicates the use of SF3X8 screw for this, but it seems that this screw is much too long.
Thanks in advance.
#6101
Tech Regular
iTrader: (11)
I dont post a lot on here, but just wanted to say how amazing this car is. I am running the L and its the best TC I have ever ran. Local fast guy is Kyle Bergrstrom, he beat my TQ by .7 and beat me by 4 sec in the main last weekend. He is running the FFG and the aluminum chassis. Needless to say I spend my free time looking for change on the street so I can save up enough order them LOL. Getting ready for Reedy next month, hope to have it by then! There is 5 people running awesomatix at my local track, just nice to see the support from local fast people and everyone here on the threads for tips and tricks... thanks to everyone who posts, so it gives me an idea on what to change on the car!
#6102
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (28)
Morning guys,
They will only fit into the GD2! Please note this.
They work fine and the small difference compared with the plastic gears is the weight.
The car is a little bit easier to drive but has also less on power steering. It's another good setup thing to play with.
Plastic gears: more steering and little less rear traction
Metall gears: less steering, very easy to drive
I recommend to use #2000-#3000 oil inside.
They will only fit into the GD2! Please note this.
They work fine and the small difference compared with the plastic gears is the weight.
The car is a little bit easier to drive but has also less on power steering. It's another good setup thing to play with.
Plastic gears: more steering and little less rear traction
Metall gears: less steering, very easy to drive
I recommend to use #2000-#3000 oil inside.
#6103
New spool with updated outdrives and new steering blocks: same roll center geometry as AM06S but narrower for low-grip conditions!
http://www.redrc.net/2014/04/updated...ks/#more-79621
http://www.redrc.net/2014/04/updated...ks/#more-79621
#6105
I'm having trouble eliminating free play from the right rear wishbone when the car is on the car stand. In the past it's been a case of reset spring, damping, ride height and droop and it's gone but whatever I do I can't seem to get rid of it.
I've done the following:
Reset spring, damping, ride height and droop
Checked chassis is flat and not tweaked - it is flat
Checked rear ARB is balanced - it is balanced
Checked weight is balanced left to right - it is balanced
Replaced rear springs
Replaced rear SPR02
Not sure what else I can do beyond replacing the rear shocks entirely? If anyone has suggestions I'd be glad to hear them =]
I've done the following:
Reset spring, damping, ride height and droop
Checked chassis is flat and not tweaked - it is flat
Checked rear ARB is balanced - it is balanced
Checked weight is balanced left to right - it is balanced
Replaced rear springs
Replaced rear SPR02
Not sure what else I can do beyond replacing the rear shocks entirely? If anyone has suggestions I'd be glad to hear them =]