Quantra

I spent a long time muddling through set up too. Playing a lot with the shock settings. Then one day I put on fairly standard shock settings from Freddy/Viljami. They were much stiffer than what I had before and it allowed me to feel the whole set up of the car and tune all the geometry to get where I wanted to be. This is the setup sheet I followed for shocks: http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/awes...ice2013110103/

Now I have this experience I sometimes change shock settings but only really to handle bumps. I find they change the way the car feels but not really large handling differences or large differences in lap time. Even though the sheet I link is for carpet I still suggest starting there then my approach is change damping gap to get the damping feel right and then change spring gap to get spring feel right.

If your car pushes a lot with the FFG then check the FFG stops aren't too far out. Also following some advice given by a UK team driver you can do a lot of tuning with this car with droop. Little droop can make the car super responsive but it will push mid corner, more droop particularly at the rear can help the car rotate. Personally I have found eliminating bump steer can also help mid corner as I found when I applied the throttle it was stealing my steering away.

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

this is a long question -- but lets see how i can help. lets start w/ the basics--

1- adjustment "A" is for dampening. higher values = more dampening

2- adjustment "B" is for spring rate. higher values = less spring rate

3- if you want to "lay down" your shocks -- that is making the spring softer. so, just adjust the "B" value (the hook) and increase the value to make it softer.

4- if you want to "stand up" your shocsk -- what is making the spring harder. so, just adjust the "B" value (the hook) and decrease the value making it harder.

i don't want to start a discussion necessarily if i agree w/ your tuning suggestions above. the "tools" listed above should be a great place to start.

additionally, over the past year, on a high bite surface in america, we've found it smart to try--
1- use less front sauce (maybe even glue front side walls)
2- less front camber (don't be afraid to run 1 degree)
3- increase front track width w/ 0.5mm wheel shims
4- decreasing the rear spring rate
5- increase the front dampening
6- increase the front bar thickness (but if you go too far -- you will traction roll)

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

please be careful when just performing a 'pure' numerical analysis of shocks. i can put together a shock package that is pound for pound the same w/in the setup sheet -- but they feel different on the bench, and on the track.

you need to get the dampening rates high enough so the cars don't feel springy.

again -- it all depends upon track conditions. from what I understand, Viljami (veal-ya-me for all us americans..) runs on a roll out track, in a very cold hall. because of that, his setups should be amazing when there is low grip. i know Josh started w/ Viljami's setup going into Snowbirds, but we had to make some whole sale changes throughout the weekend, especially before round 4 after both switching over to the C01AL.

josecarlo1129

iTrader: (1)

These are my shocks tuning parameters as well for A700, in relation to how normal shocks work.

Well said, Mike.

gocoogs

iTrader: (24)

Thanks for the input Mike. That helps. Just for clarification though... The manual I have states that when I adjust the "A" value, I am adjusting dampening AND spring rate simultaneously... As I read your post above, do you treat the "A" adjustment as a dampening only adjustment or spring rate also? I just wanted a some clarification! Thanks in advance.

gocoogs

iTrader: (24)

for clarification, on the top of page 36 of the manual is what i am referring to here... thanks

Quantra

Not sure I follow you. The damping rate will have changed so I'd expect them to feel different on the bench and track. In this situation we are looking for a change.

I think the comments on this thread about it being a feel thing or set it up so it doesn't feel springy or change things until they feel right is correct but not useful for someone trying to find their way with a new car. It's also very hard to compare feel unless you own 2 cars set up the same and it's hard to know how things should feel unless you already have it right. I'm not knocking anyone for making those comments just feel that things need to be quantifiable, at least whilst getting started.

For myself it was only when I went to Freddy's shock settings that the car started working for me properly. Since using those settings I have tried small and large changes and have never been happy with the results so always end up reverting back to them. At least I have a shock setting that work for me at most the tracks I race on and until I become a master of setting springs and damping that will have to be good enough.

RC Professor

iTrader: (17)

Question on building a gd2 - should there be 2 bearings per diff side like the gd1, or only one bearing per side?

Thanks for any help.

Quantra

Just one. You might find my article on the GD2 useful: http://www.thercracer.com/2013/11/aw...ld-review.html

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

we need Oleg to answer.
i'm treating these settings just the way i've described them.

busting out a setup sheet -- the point i'm making is that you can say have A=0 and B=0 and on another shock A=5 and B=5 they come out with the same numerical value, but feel differently. [See the attached picture]

you don't need to own two cars to do the comparison. find the fastest person at your track -- and ask if you can feel their cars. get both race ready minus body and push down on the front and rear a few times. ask what they think too.

trust me, it takes a lot of failure before you hit on perfect setups yourself...

one b85 on each side
go to http://www.awesomatixusa.com/p/gd2.html and click exploded view

chiefj48

Correct me if I'm wrong
You can adjust A and unless you adjust B then They move together.
You can adjust B but it will not change A.
So you could have A&B set at 3mm
And when you adjust A again to say 4mm B will be 4mm also.
You can set A at 3mm and B at 2mm, but if B is locked and you move A to 2mm B will be 1mm.
If you move A to 4mm then B will be 3mm
Does that sound correct?

haywood

iTrader: (49)

Is everyone cutting the axles down so they don't snag a board?

Travis S

iTrader: (46)

I was thinking the same at first, but when you move A in or out, the distance on B or the "hook" does not change.

However, if you look these 2 pictures. The first one shows B = 3mm A = 3mm making the spring rate = 108.4 gf/mm

If you just change the A to 4mm that now makes the spring rate 117.6 gf/mm



Now if you want to increase A but keep the same spring rate you would also need to change B to 3.9mm. (I know .9 is not an option with the gauges but this is just for demonstration.)

Magnet Top

iTrader: (4)

" B " is a "passenger" of " A " ( the carrier ).

Simply, for example : if the goal is to maintain spring rate but change damping rate : Move " A " some distance , then move " B " the equal distance but OPPOSITE direction.

( Note. " B " is the position of the RHS ( ride height screw ). The RHS acts as the leverage point on the "leaf" style spring that determines spring rate )

So if you move " A " 2mm East, then move " B " 2mm West. You have successfully changed your damping rate and kept your spring rate exactly the same as before you started.

The only issue comes up when you don't have enough adjustment range in "B". So you sometimes have to use SRS I or SRS II depending on what you are trying to accomplish. The difference between SRS I and SRS II is 4mm.

Jake D.

Magnet Top

iTrader: (4)

Yes !