SavageCanadian

iTrader: (60)

3.5mm above the chassis, I'd think there would be something wrong if they were below the chassis

Oleg Babich

Please note that all our European team drivers use the the downstop measuring method described in the Instruction Manual on the page #35.
So the downstop value in their setups is the distance from the chassis's bottom surface to the most outer lower edge of the arm.
I think that this is a very simple and straightforward method.
It does not allow dual interpretations and doesn't need any additional comments in the setup sheet in contrast to all others methods.

Csaari77

iTrader: (35)

Got my car on track for its first run yesterday. I was pretty impressed. It was on pace with my previous car immediately. It was also very consistent and easy to drive. I didnt make a ton of changes to the Fairtrace setup, I mainly wanted to get a feel for the car yesterday. That being said, I managed to qualify 2nd in the A and finished 1st. I'm excited to see how much faster this car can get.

DS Motorsport

iTrader: (2)

For a custom car project I've been working on I hope to get the following measurement:



It's the distance from the inner bearing face till the center of the driveshaft pin. Basically the driveshaft length between upright and the outdrive.

I want to fit DJ CVD's to my custom car and the Awesomatix DJ's impressed me the most when I had my A700.

Oleg Babich

yumlailai

How do you adjust ride height on this car?

Thank you

!Mad Max!

Hi , we have 2 Screws by our damper.
One is the SRS (Spring Rate Screw) which you can change the spring rate setting.
The second screw beside is the RHS (Ride High Screw)! It is the screw which look more out....
Turn in the RHS to increase spring preload (car go higher)
Turn out the RHS to decrease spring preload (car go lower)

Hope this help you!

P.S. Here a screenshot from the manual

Best Regards
Max

gocoogs

iTrader: (24)

i just bought an A700 EX version new in the box... I race mostly carpet in the US here. What all sorts of parts would I need to get this thing to preform well ? narrow chassis? different hubs etc? I am new to this car as I have run an xray for a long time, but I wanted to try it out!

Travis S

iTrader: (46)

The stock rubber 17.5 people mostly run the A700L USA spec. So that has the narrow chassis and lower hubs. I wouldn't go crazy with new stuff yet until you try it out the way it is. It's a great car stock. But I guess the only thing I would recommend is to be able to use shorter links that a lot of setups use:

AM-19 - http://shop.awesomatixusa.com/a700-am19.html
1-1/8" Turnbuckles - http://shop.awesomatixusa.com/lns1162.html

Also something I just changed over myself and it has made working on things so much easier are the Top Steel balls and ball cups http://shop.awesomatixusa.com/pa-hbs003.html and http://shop.awesomatixusa.com/tc-pmhs01.html

However, I have noticed a little more slop with these. If anyone has any recommendations on reducing this that would be great.

Oleg Babich

All Awesomatix kits for USA have the shorter AM06S hubs already.

In case of the traction level at your conditions (track+tires) is very high I recommend you the standard top links without the optional AM19 or AM18-1 ( please see the setups from Karl Hoffmeister and Kyle Bergstrom on http://www.awesomatixusa.com/p/setup-sheets.html).
For medium traction conditions the optional AM19 and shorter lower balls AT21S are useful but there are a lot of good setups that don't use these optional parts.

Your EX lower deck is good for all conditions, for stock and mod also.

erchn

iTrader: (7)

Thin plastic bag, put it over the ball and snap the ball cup over it. Less to no slop, still butter smooth and very simple to "install".

Travis S

iTrader: (46)

Thanks! I will give that a try.

gocoogs

iTrader: (24)

so im probably not the first one to comment on this, but Oleg, what are your thoughts on ball cups with holes in the top like the Xray? it seems like we are constantly adjusting roll centers and such and it would be way easier to be able to screw out the ball end with a hex than having to pop off the cup each time i want to adjust it 1/2 a mm. I guess i could just buy the xray ball ends and cups, but I am sure you guys have a reason for the choice you made... would appreciate any thoughts. thanks so much.

btw, i bought the A700 EX from a guy in Australia so it likely isnt the US version.. doh!

gocoogs

iTrader: (24)

Travis, just read your note! thanks for the recommendation on the ball cups and ends... those seem to make a lot more sense!

Travis S

iTrader: (46)

Easy way to tell is if the hubs are silver they are the standard ones. If they are brown they are the short ones in the USA spec.

I think the Xray ball ends are not the same height as the stock kit ball ends, so this will have some effect on setup. The TOP Steel ball ends are the same height.