Awesomatix EP Touring Car (A700 Shaft Drive)
#1906
Ok i see "delicate" might have been the wrong choice of words but coming from an xray t3 2012 to this car ...i must say that the xray t3 is a much stronger car ....now im sure you guys might disagree but in my own testing since i have both cars to do so ....in the durability department nothing beats an xray. Anyways i still love this car and will continue to race with it and grow with it .....but im definately keeping my T3 just in case.
T3 plastics & materials are good enough that you will find other brands literally running the castor blocks, knuckles and drivetrain on their cars just to make it more bullet proof.
The T3 has the build of an SUV, while the A700 is has the build of sportscar. Don't hit anything and the sportscar will be faster
#1907
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
I had the opportunity to run at the Tamiya America Raceway in Aliso Viejo this past weekend. The race was quite a bit of fun, and there was a ton of interest in the A700. As always the diff housing and the rear axles were getting the most attention. ;-)
First round my car was close to on pace, only off by about .3 compared to TQ, Rick Howart. After the kink in the middle of the track there is a tear drop 180 that had a quick entry (if kink done right), my car would get loose in the rear pretty easily going into this turn, making it pretty hard to drive consistently. The track was in pretty good condition, with most having no traction issues, depending on tire/sauce choice of course.
Second round, to try and solve the looseness issue, I added a half millimeter shim under the rear upper inside links, lowering the roll center a little bit to try and get more roll in the car. The car felt better, but it might have simply been the traction having come up as the weather got a little better. Unfortunately, my lap times dropped a couple tenths, though I only got in about 6 laps before I got into the before mentioned kink in the middle of the track and broke out of the heat. This obviously sucked, as the second round was basically the rocket round and I was pushed out of the A.
I ended up qualified 3rd in the B, and while I was pretty disappointed with that, I thought I had a good chance of winning that race at least. Unfortunately (yes that's the theme of this email :-), a couple of odd things happened. First, the car seemed to be hopping quite a bit coming on to the straight away. While it is a little bumpy and many of the cars were hopping, mine was by far the worst offender. Second, for reasons yet to be discovered, the car seemed to have a hard time centering. I've checked my servo, steering rack, everything seems to be free, it felt like something must have been binding somewhere as after turning left the car would stay trimmed slightly to the left, and vice versa after turning right. Very odd. I've had this type of behavior before when the steering rod was hitting the top deck, but I don't believe that issue is happening this time.
Finally, and to be honest I've felt this nearly every time I've run my A700, I feel like the car doesn't carve the way my Xray used to, it just doesn't seem to dig in on turns like I'm used to feeling. It's almost like the car is floating a little bit, I don't know if it's a lack of roll in the car or something I have wrong, but I'm definitely interested in other's opinions on that matter. I've attached my setup for reference.
The car did feel really good one time, which was at my home track after the race when the temperature dropped (happy hour, as we call it), the car really started to carve in the corners, and I was on pace with the others. That was a change from earlier where I was off pace by .3-.5 and the car had that floaty feel. The first few times I ran I was sure that I had done something wrong with tires, or had the setup all wrong (which may still be true), but this feeling has been pretty consistent now.
To try and fix this, next things I'm going to try are running quite a bit softer, closer to Freddy's settings, and I'm going to try running transverse, in the hopes that will generate more roll.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Ethan
First round my car was close to on pace, only off by about .3 compared to TQ, Rick Howart. After the kink in the middle of the track there is a tear drop 180 that had a quick entry (if kink done right), my car would get loose in the rear pretty easily going into this turn, making it pretty hard to drive consistently. The track was in pretty good condition, with most having no traction issues, depending on tire/sauce choice of course.
Second round, to try and solve the looseness issue, I added a half millimeter shim under the rear upper inside links, lowering the roll center a little bit to try and get more roll in the car. The car felt better, but it might have simply been the traction having come up as the weather got a little better. Unfortunately, my lap times dropped a couple tenths, though I only got in about 6 laps before I got into the before mentioned kink in the middle of the track and broke out of the heat. This obviously sucked, as the second round was basically the rocket round and I was pushed out of the A.
I ended up qualified 3rd in the B, and while I was pretty disappointed with that, I thought I had a good chance of winning that race at least. Unfortunately (yes that's the theme of this email :-), a couple of odd things happened. First, the car seemed to be hopping quite a bit coming on to the straight away. While it is a little bumpy and many of the cars were hopping, mine was by far the worst offender. Second, for reasons yet to be discovered, the car seemed to have a hard time centering. I've checked my servo, steering rack, everything seems to be free, it felt like something must have been binding somewhere as after turning left the car would stay trimmed slightly to the left, and vice versa after turning right. Very odd. I've had this type of behavior before when the steering rod was hitting the top deck, but I don't believe that issue is happening this time.
Finally, and to be honest I've felt this nearly every time I've run my A700, I feel like the car doesn't carve the way my Xray used to, it just doesn't seem to dig in on turns like I'm used to feeling. It's almost like the car is floating a little bit, I don't know if it's a lack of roll in the car or something I have wrong, but I'm definitely interested in other's opinions on that matter. I've attached my setup for reference.
The car did feel really good one time, which was at my home track after the race when the temperature dropped (happy hour, as we call it), the car really started to carve in the corners, and I was on pace with the others. That was a change from earlier where I was off pace by .3-.5 and the car had that floaty feel. The first few times I ran I was sure that I had done something wrong with tires, or had the setup all wrong (which may still be true), but this feeling has been pretty consistent now.
To try and fix this, next things I'm going to try are running quite a bit softer, closer to Freddy's settings, and I'm going to try running transverse, in the hopes that will generate more roll.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Ethan
#1908
Hey Erchn,
As far as your centering issue, are you running the supplied servo saver ? If so, I used to own a 416 and had severe issues with the Tamiya servo saver not centering, and started having the same issues with the A700's ( which is a Tamiya servo saver ). Recently I replaced the A700's with the new stiff X-ray servo saver ( unfortunately it requires a few clearance modifications ) and haven't had any centering issues since.
Jake D.
As far as your centering issue, are you running the supplied servo saver ? If so, I used to own a 416 and had severe issues with the Tamiya servo saver not centering, and started having the same issues with the A700's ( which is a Tamiya servo saver ). Recently I replaced the A700's with the new stiff X-ray servo saver ( unfortunately it requires a few clearance modifications ) and haven't had any centering issues since.
Jake D.
#1909
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
Hey Erchn,
As far as your centering issue, are you running the supplied servo saver ? If so, I used to own a 416 and had severe issues with the Tamiya servo saver not centering, and started having the same issues with the A700's ( which is a Tamiya servo saver ). Recently I replaced the A700's with the new stiff X-ray servo saver ( unfortunately it requires a few clearance modifications ) and haven't had any centering issues since.
Jake D.
As far as your centering issue, are you running the supplied servo saver ? If so, I used to own a 416 and had severe issues with the Tamiya servo saver not centering, and started having the same issues with the A700's ( which is a Tamiya servo saver ). Recently I replaced the A700's with the new stiff X-ray servo saver ( unfortunately it requires a few clearance modifications ) and haven't had any centering issues since.
Jake D.
#1910
If you end up trying the X-ray servo saver you have to shave off 1-2 mm off of one of the screws that holds the servo bracket because it will rub the large diameter of the X-ray saver. Also, you need to recess the ball stud into the saver or the angle of the rod between the steering rack and the saver will be too severe and cause a collision with other suspension parts.
#1911
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
If you end up trying the X-ray servo saver you have to shave off 1-2 mm off of one of the screws that holds the servo bracket because it will rub the large diameter of the X-ray saver. Also, you need to recess the ball stud into the saver or the angle of the rod between the steering rack and the saver will be too severe.
#1912
Ok so another thing i could use some help with lol ....I know this is a specialty car and its not for everyone and cool stuff like this isnt cheap and i have no problem with that .....the problem im having is i ordered parts from the website ok and i got the invoice for the banking information which is a transfer only option which hopefully they can move to paypal but besides that i took the receipt to my bank to transfer the money and was ready to pay the extra 40 dollars it costs to transfer the money so 60 dollars in parts turns to 100 dollars but was still ready to pay it but the teller told me she cant transfer the money because the bank is in cyprus and the companies address is in the UK she said the bank and the company have to be in the same country and she found it to be sketchy.....i assured her that awesomatix is a legit company and everything would be fine but she said she still couldnt do the transfer......sooooooooo HOW TO I GET PARTS am i missing something?
#1913
I had the opportunity to run at the Tamiya America Raceway in Aliso Viejo this past weekend. The race was quite a bit of fun, and there was a ton of interest in the A700. As always the diff housing and the rear axles were getting the most attention. ;-)
First round my car was close to on pace, only off by about .3 compared to TQ, Rick Howart. After the kink in the middle of the track there is a tear drop 180 that had a quick entry (if kink done right), my car would get loose in the rear pretty easily going into this turn, making it pretty hard to drive consistently. The track was in pretty good condition, with most having no traction issues, depending on tire/sauce choice of course.
Second round, to try and solve the looseness issue, I added a half millimeter shim under the rear upper inside links, lowering the roll center a little bit to try and get more roll in the car. The car felt better, but it might have simply been the traction having come up as the weather got a little better. Unfortunately, my lap times dropped a couple tenths, though I only got in about 6 laps before I got into the before mentioned kink in the middle of the track and broke out of the heat. This obviously sucked, as the second round was basically the rocket round and I was pushed out of the A.
I ended up qualified 3rd in the B, and while I was pretty disappointed with that, I thought I had a good chance of winning that race at least. Unfortunately (yes that's the theme of this email :-), a couple of odd things happened. First, the car seemed to be hopping quite a bit coming on to the straight away. While it is a little bumpy and many of the cars were hopping, mine was by far the worst offender. Second, for reasons yet to be discovered, the car seemed to have a hard time centering. I've checked my servo, steering rack, everything seems to be free, it felt like something must have been binding somewhere as after turning left the car would stay trimmed slightly to the left, and vice versa after turning right. Very odd. I've had this type of behavior before when the steering rod was hitting the top deck, but I don't believe that issue is happening this time.
Finally, and to be honest I've felt this nearly every time I've run my A700, I feel like the car doesn't carve the way my Xray used to, it just doesn't seem to dig in on turns like I'm used to feeling. It's almost like the car is floating a little bit, I don't know if it's a lack of roll in the car or something I have wrong, but I'm definitely interested in other's opinions on that matter. I've attached my setup for reference.
The car did feel really good one time, which was at my home track after the race when the temperature dropped (happy hour, as we call it), the car really started to carve in the corners, and I was on pace with the others. That was a change from earlier where I was off pace by .3-.5 and the car had that floaty feel. The first few times I ran I was sure that I had done something wrong with tires, or had the setup all wrong (which may still be true), but this feeling has been pretty consistent now.
To try and fix this, next things I'm going to try are running quite a bit softer, closer to Freddy's settings, and I'm going to try running transverse, in the hopes that will generate more roll.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Ethan
First round my car was close to on pace, only off by about .3 compared to TQ, Rick Howart. After the kink in the middle of the track there is a tear drop 180 that had a quick entry (if kink done right), my car would get loose in the rear pretty easily going into this turn, making it pretty hard to drive consistently. The track was in pretty good condition, with most having no traction issues, depending on tire/sauce choice of course.
Second round, to try and solve the looseness issue, I added a half millimeter shim under the rear upper inside links, lowering the roll center a little bit to try and get more roll in the car. The car felt better, but it might have simply been the traction having come up as the weather got a little better. Unfortunately, my lap times dropped a couple tenths, though I only got in about 6 laps before I got into the before mentioned kink in the middle of the track and broke out of the heat. This obviously sucked, as the second round was basically the rocket round and I was pushed out of the A.
I ended up qualified 3rd in the B, and while I was pretty disappointed with that, I thought I had a good chance of winning that race at least. Unfortunately (yes that's the theme of this email :-), a couple of odd things happened. First, the car seemed to be hopping quite a bit coming on to the straight away. While it is a little bumpy and many of the cars were hopping, mine was by far the worst offender. Second, for reasons yet to be discovered, the car seemed to have a hard time centering. I've checked my servo, steering rack, everything seems to be free, it felt like something must have been binding somewhere as after turning left the car would stay trimmed slightly to the left, and vice versa after turning right. Very odd. I've had this type of behavior before when the steering rod was hitting the top deck, but I don't believe that issue is happening this time.
Finally, and to be honest I've felt this nearly every time I've run my A700, I feel like the car doesn't carve the way my Xray used to, it just doesn't seem to dig in on turns like I'm used to feeling. It's almost like the car is floating a little bit, I don't know if it's a lack of roll in the car or something I have wrong, but I'm definitely interested in other's opinions on that matter. I've attached my setup for reference.
The car did feel really good one time, which was at my home track after the race when the temperature dropped (happy hour, as we call it), the car really started to carve in the corners, and I was on pace with the others. That was a change from earlier where I was off pace by .3-.5 and the car had that floaty feel. The first few times I ran I was sure that I had done something wrong with tires, or had the setup all wrong (which may still be true), but this feeling has been pretty consistent now.
To try and fix this, next things I'm going to try are running quite a bit softer, closer to Freddy's settings, and I'm going to try running transverse, in the hopes that will generate more roll.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Ethan
I would have loved to run the A700 there.
With that experience - I would have tried a few other things.
- Going with ASYM on the front and rear shocks. Similar to what we have done with Tamiya shocks for years by drilling shock tops - the ASYM provides a softer initial feel which would have been helpful navigating chicane and onto the straight.
- Add more droop to the car. At 6 and 5 - that would have made my car feel really limited roll.
- Swaybars - Im on the fence about them right now. I am trying to get the car to work without them...
- Remove 2 front bottom screws and 2 rear bottom screws. Always felt to have more bite without them
- Have not been a fan of reactive caster with IAS. Generally - the exagerrated ackerman with the reactive caster just made the car push. The good/better/best:
Good - Reactive with IAS
Better - Reactive with standard rack
Best - Non-reactive with IAS
- Camber-rise looks good in the back. Did you try adding shims under the rear arm mounts?
- Lighter oil in rear gear diff. I am usually 60-120. At 200 or 2000 CST my car will not rotate.
- Shock setting - still TBD on this, unlike carpet and on asphalt I believe will end up with a differential of that will be within 10gF/mm front to rear but with the front being stiffer. Especially if we start fighting for rear grip.
- Tires - for Tamiya - the best options were always Sorex 36 or 32 with soft inserts. Lots of air gap. Why didn't you run the RROC tire?
Btw - where did you find RP30's???? I thought they were long gone.
#1914
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
Ok so another thing i could use some help with lol ....I know this is a specialty car and its not for everyone and cool stuff like this isnt cheap and i have no problem with that .....the problem im having is i ordered parts from the website ok and i got the invoice for the banking information which is a transfer only option which hopefully they can move to paypal but besides that i took the receipt to my bank to transfer the money and was ready to pay the extra 40 dollars it costs to transfer the money so 60 dollars in parts turns to 100 dollars but was still ready to pay it but the teller told me she cant transfer the money because the bank is in cyprus and the companies address is in the UK she said the bank and the company have to be in the same country and she found it to be sketchy.....i assured her that awesomatix is a legit company and everything would be fine but she said she still couldnt do the transfer......sooooooooo HOW TO I GET PARTS am i missing something?
#1915
Ok so another thing i could use some help with lol ....I know this is a specialty car and its not for everyone and cool stuff like this isnt cheap and i have no problem with that .....the problem im having is i ordered parts from the website ok and i got the invoice for the banking information which is a transfer only option which hopefully they can move to paypal but besides that i took the receipt to my bank to transfer the money and was ready to pay the extra 40 dollars it costs to transfer the money so 60 dollars in parts turns to 100 dollars but was still ready to pay it but the teller told me she cant transfer the money because the bank is in cyprus and the companies address is in the UK she said the bank and the company have to be in the same country and she found it to be sketchy.....i assured her that awesomatix is a legit company and everything would be fine but she said she still couldnt do the transfer......sooooooooo HOW TO I GET PARTS am i missing something?
#1916
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
Tamiya is one of my favorite tracks of ALL TIME. I think I have hundreds of packs on that track. Some of my most memorable tracks.
I would have loved to run the A700 there.
I would have loved to run the A700 there.
With that experience - I would have tried a few other things.
- Going with ASYM on the front and rear shocks. Similar to what we have done with Tamiya shocks for years by drilling shock tops - the ASYM provides a softer initial feel which would have been helpful navigating chicane and onto the straight.
- Going with ASYM on the front and rear shocks. Similar to what we have done with Tamiya shocks for years by drilling shock tops - the ASYM provides a softer initial feel which would have been helpful navigating chicane and onto the straight.
- Add more droop to the car. At 6 and 5 - that would have made my car feel really limited roll.
- Swaybars - Im on the fence about them right now. I am trying to get the car to work without them...
- Remove 2 front bottom screws and 2 rear bottom screws. Always felt to have more bite without them
- Have not been a fan of reactive caster with IAS. Generally - the exaggerated ackerman with the reactive caster just made the car push. The good/better/best:
Good - Reactive with IAS
Better - Reactive with standard rack
Best - Non-reactive with IAS
Good - Reactive with IAS
Better - Reactive with standard rack
Best - Non-reactive with IAS
- Camber-rise looks good in the back. Did you try adding shims under the rear arm mounts?
- Lighter oil in rear gear diff. I am usually 60-120. At 200 or 2000 CST my car will not rotate.
- Shock setting - still TBD on this, unlike carpet and on asphalt I believe will end up with a differential of that will be within 10gF/mm front to rear but with the front being stiffer. Especially if we start fighting for rear grip.
- Tires - for Tamiya - the best options were always Sorex 36 or 32 with soft inserts. Lots of air gap. Why didn't you run the RROC tire?
Btw - where did you find RP30's???? I thought they were long gone.
BTW, thanks for the tips again, I clearly have some things to test.
#1917
#1918
If anyone is having servo saver centering issues I have simple fix which improves performance and longevity.
Buy a new Tamiya servo saver
Take the black outer spring from the wrecked one, probably it will not be perfectly circular so bend it back tight with pliers
Add it to the outside of the new servo saver
Now you have 4 springs instead of three. This makes the whole thing significantly stiffer which translates to a much more positive feel on the track, perfect centering, and it lasts for months before any slop appears
If you have a big crash disassemble and check roundness and bend back to shape. You can do this once or twice before the elasticity is gone, after that you need to replace it
Buy a new Tamiya servo saver
Take the black outer spring from the wrecked one, probably it will not be perfectly circular so bend it back tight with pliers
Add it to the outside of the new servo saver
Now you have 4 springs instead of three. This makes the whole thing significantly stiffer which translates to a much more positive feel on the track, perfect centering, and it lasts for months before any slop appears
If you have a big crash disassemble and check roundness and bend back to shape. You can do this once or twice before the elasticity is gone, after that you need to replace it
#1919
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
I had the opportunity to run at the Tamiya America Raceway in Aliso Viejo this past weekend. The race was quite a bit of fun, and there was a ton of interest in the A700. As always the diff housing and the rear axles were getting the most attention. ;-)
First round my car was close to on pace, only off by about .3 compared to TQ, Rick Howart. After the kink in the middle of the track there is a tear drop 180 that had a quick entry (if kink done right), my car would get loose in the rear pretty easily going into this turn, making it pretty hard to drive consistently. The track was in pretty good condition, with most having no traction issues, depending on tire/sauce choice of course.
Second round, to try and solve the looseness issue, I added a half millimeter shim under the rear upper inside links, lowering the roll center a little bit to try and get more roll in the car. The car felt better, but it might have simply been the traction having come up as the weather got a little better. Unfortunately, my lap times dropped a couple tenths, though I only got in about 6 laps before I got into the before mentioned kink in the middle of the track and broke out of the heat. This obviously sucked, as the second round was basically the rocket round and I was pushed out of the A.
I ended up qualified 3rd in the B, and while I was pretty disappointed with that, I thought I had a good chance of winning that race at least. Unfortunately (yes that's the theme of this email :-), a couple of odd things happened. First, the car seemed to be hopping quite a bit coming on to the straight away. While it is a little bumpy and many of the cars were hopping, mine was by far the worst offender. Second, for reasons yet to be discovered, the car seemed to have a hard time centering. I've checked my servo, steering rack, everything seems to be free, it felt like something must have been binding somewhere as after turning left the car would stay trimmed slightly to the left, and vice versa after turning right. Very odd. I've had this type of behavior before when the steering rod was hitting the top deck, but I don't believe that issue is happening this time.
Finally, and to be honest I've felt this nearly every time I've run my A700, I feel like the car doesn't carve the way my Xray used to, it just doesn't seem to dig in on turns like I'm used to feeling. It's almost like the car is floating a little bit, I don't know if it's a lack of roll in the car or something I have wrong, but I'm definitely interested in other's opinions on that matter. I've attached my setup for reference.
The car did feel really good one time, which was at my home track after the race when the temperature dropped (happy hour, as we call it), the car really started to carve in the corners, and I was on pace with the others. That was a change from earlier where I was off pace by .3-.5 and the car had that floaty feel. The first few times I ran I was sure that I had done something wrong with tires, or had the setup all wrong (which may still be true), but this feeling has been pretty consistent now.
To try and fix this, next things I'm going to try are running quite a bit softer, closer to Freddy's settings, and I'm going to try running transverse, in the hopes that will generate more roll.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Ethan
First round my car was close to on pace, only off by about .3 compared to TQ, Rick Howart. After the kink in the middle of the track there is a tear drop 180 that had a quick entry (if kink done right), my car would get loose in the rear pretty easily going into this turn, making it pretty hard to drive consistently. The track was in pretty good condition, with most having no traction issues, depending on tire/sauce choice of course.
Second round, to try and solve the looseness issue, I added a half millimeter shim under the rear upper inside links, lowering the roll center a little bit to try and get more roll in the car. The car felt better, but it might have simply been the traction having come up as the weather got a little better. Unfortunately, my lap times dropped a couple tenths, though I only got in about 6 laps before I got into the before mentioned kink in the middle of the track and broke out of the heat. This obviously sucked, as the second round was basically the rocket round and I was pushed out of the A.
I ended up qualified 3rd in the B, and while I was pretty disappointed with that, I thought I had a good chance of winning that race at least. Unfortunately (yes that's the theme of this email :-), a couple of odd things happened. First, the car seemed to be hopping quite a bit coming on to the straight away. While it is a little bumpy and many of the cars were hopping, mine was by far the worst offender. Second, for reasons yet to be discovered, the car seemed to have a hard time centering. I've checked my servo, steering rack, everything seems to be free, it felt like something must have been binding somewhere as after turning left the car would stay trimmed slightly to the left, and vice versa after turning right. Very odd. I've had this type of behavior before when the steering rod was hitting the top deck, but I don't believe that issue is happening this time.
Finally, and to be honest I've felt this nearly every time I've run my A700, I feel like the car doesn't carve the way my Xray used to, it just doesn't seem to dig in on turns like I'm used to feeling. It's almost like the car is floating a little bit, I don't know if it's a lack of roll in the car or something I have wrong, but I'm definitely interested in other's opinions on that matter. I've attached my setup for reference.
The car did feel really good one time, which was at my home track after the race when the temperature dropped (happy hour, as we call it), the car really started to carve in the corners, and I was on pace with the others. That was a change from earlier where I was off pace by .3-.5 and the car had that floaty feel. The first few times I ran I was sure that I had done something wrong with tires, or had the setup all wrong (which may still be true), but this feeling has been pretty consistent now.
To try and fix this, next things I'm going to try are running quite a bit softer, closer to Freddy's settings, and I'm going to try running transverse, in the hopes that will generate more roll.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Ethan
Droop wise, 5.5F 5R, or even 5F 4.5R seems to work well to get the car to move about more, and stop the skating feeling.
Also, the damper settings you have are pretty hard, along with the front spring, which would help to explain the "hoping" you've experienced.
Try A= 1F 2R, with B= 2F 1R, and see how that feels. Those are a little harder than Freddy and Steen's settings, but a good starting point to go with (and the F-R spring split will be a little softer than you currently run). Otherwise, just go the whole hog, and A= 0F 1R, B= 2F 0R...
You'll find the car then rolls a lot more and digs in well. With really soft springs and dampers, the roll bars help to keep corner speed up, whilst still allowing the car to pitch into the corners... the "dig" you mention.
Once you've got the springs and dampers, then start working on the settings. Something else to help make the car a little more stable would be to lengthen the rear wheel base as well, maybe try 2° or 0° on the castor setting.
Oh, and as others have mentioned, the Tamiya saver can get loose after some big hits. Either replace the plastic bits, or go solid horn (it's what I'm running, no issues )
HiH
Ed
#1920
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
Couple of things to help get the car to dig more.... more droop, and softer dampers.
Droop wise, 5.5F 5R, or even 5F 4.5R seems to work well to get the car to move about more, and stop the skating feeling.
Also, the damper settings you have are pretty hard, along with the front spring, which would help to explain the "hoping" you've experienced.
Try A= 1F 2R, with B= 2F 1R, and see how that feels. Those are a little harder than Freddy and Steen's settings, but a good starting point to go with (and the F-R spring split will be a little softer than you currently run). Otherwise, just go the whole hog, and A= 0F 1R, B= 2F 0R...
You'll find the car then rolls a lot more and digs in well. With really soft springs and dampers, the roll bars help to keep corner speed up, whilst still allowing the car to pitch into the corners... the "dig" you mention.
Droop wise, 5.5F 5R, or even 5F 4.5R seems to work well to get the car to move about more, and stop the skating feeling.
Also, the damper settings you have are pretty hard, along with the front spring, which would help to explain the "hoping" you've experienced.
Try A= 1F 2R, with B= 2F 1R, and see how that feels. Those are a little harder than Freddy and Steen's settings, but a good starting point to go with (and the F-R spring split will be a little softer than you currently run). Otherwise, just go the whole hog, and A= 0F 1R, B= 2F 0R...
You'll find the car then rolls a lot more and digs in well. With really soft springs and dampers, the roll bars help to keep corner speed up, whilst still allowing the car to pitch into the corners... the "dig" you mention.
Once you've got the springs and dampers, then start working on the settings. Something else to help make the car a little more stable would be to lengthen the rear wheel base as well, maybe try 2° or 0° on the castor setting.
Oh, and as others have mentioned, the Tamiya saver can get loose after some big hits. Either replace the plastic bits, or go solid horn (it's what I'm running, no issues )
As always the obvious thing is the last to occur to me, I need a lot more track time and experimentation to figure Sputnik here out. The best advice (only advice?) is from two guys who have tested quite a bit, so that's quite telling. ;-)
Thanks Ed, I appreciate the help.
Ethan