143LikesAwesomatix EP Touring Car (A700 Shaft Drive)
01-16-2012, 08:25 AM
#1396
Do ou think it will be the same thing if I use a front gear diff with 1 million inside?
Question about your setup, just to be sure, do you use the battery "full backward"?
Do you measure camber with a classic camber gauge or with a setup tool like the Hudy one?
Hugo
01-16-2012, 08:30 AM
#1397
Tech Apprentice
No, I don't think so. With gear diff in front I think something around 300.000 to 500.000 works best.
With 1.000.000 it will be not able to rotate so its like a spool and no diff effect.
Yes I ran the battery full backward.
I use the hudy alu setup tools and I think it's a must have, maybe not Hudy but same type.
Freddy
With 1.000.000 it will be not able to rotate so its like a spool and no diff effect.
Yes I ran the battery full backward.
I use the hudy alu setup tools and I think it's a must have, maybe not Hudy but same type.
Freddy
01-16-2012, 08:51 AM
#1398
No, I don't think so. With gear diff in front I think something around 300.000 to 500.000 works best.
With 1.000.000 it will be not able to rotate so its like a spool and no diff effect.
Yes I ran the battery full backward.
I use the hudy alu setup tools and I think it's a must have, maybe not Hudy but same type.
Freddy
With 1.000.000 it will be not able to rotate so its like a spool and no diff effect.
Yes I ran the battery full backward.
I use the hudy alu setup tools and I think it's a must have, maybe not Hudy but same type.
Freddy
01-16-2012, 04:09 PM
#1400
I had another race at the rc Niagara Track I race at (low-medium traction carpet). Earlier in the day I couldn't find my lines on this layout (different every week), so I was really testing the durability of the A700, with some big impacts.
I'm very impressed, the only damage all day was a bearing from the steering rack (single rear bearing, MR84RS). It was enough to allow the rack to move 1mm between the bearings (picture below). Once the bearing was replaced, it was back to it's original tolerances. So it might be a good idea to carry a few spare in your pit box.
Before the last round of qualifying, I finally got into the flow of the track and managed to put down 2 tq runs (ran blinky settings in boosted and blinky 17.5 classes). In my boosted final, I made a big error on the first lap putting me in 3rd, but got back out front about halfway through the race. In my blinky final, the car was very good, I actually beat my tq time by a lap.
Setup-wise I didn't change much from my setup last week, just changed the shock settings to front A-4.2 B-1.6 and rear A-4.8 B-1.6, and put 0.5mm spacers under the rear arms. End result was a fairly aggressive, easy to drive car.
What kind of fan/heat sinks have people been using? I was trying a Yeah racing heat sink/fan mount, but had some issues with it popping off.
I'm very impressed, the only damage all day was a bearing from the steering rack (single rear bearing, MR84RS). It was enough to allow the rack to move 1mm between the bearings (picture below). Once the bearing was replaced, it was back to it's original tolerances. So it might be a good idea to carry a few spare in your pit box.
Before the last round of qualifying, I finally got into the flow of the track and managed to put down 2 tq runs (ran blinky settings in boosted and blinky 17.5 classes). In my boosted final, I made a big error on the first lap putting me in 3rd, but got back out front about halfway through the race. In my blinky final, the car was very good, I actually beat my tq time by a lap.
Setup-wise I didn't change much from my setup last week, just changed the shock settings to front A-4.2 B-1.6 and rear A-4.8 B-1.6, and put 0.5mm spacers under the rear arms. End result was a fairly aggressive, easy to drive car.
What kind of fan/heat sinks have people been using? I was trying a Yeah racing heat sink/fan mount, but had some issues with it popping off.
01-16-2012, 04:28 PM
#1401
I had another race at the rc Niagara Track I race at (low-medium traction carpet). Earlier in the day I couldn't find my lines on this layout (different every week), so I was really testing the durability of the A700, with some big impacts.
I'm very impressed, the only damage all day was a bearing from the steering rack (single rear bearing, MR84RS). It was enough to allow the rack to move 1mm between the bearings (picture below). Once the bearing was replaced, it was back to it's original tolerances. So it might be a good idea to carry a few spare in your pit box.
Before the last round of qualifying, I finally got into the flow of the track and managed to put down 2 tq runs (ran blinky settings in boosted and blinky 17.5 classes). In my boosted final, I made a big error on the first lap putting me in 3rd, but got back out front about halfway through the race. In my blinky final, the car was very good, I actually beat my tq time by a lap.
Setup-wise I didn't change much from my setup last week, just changed the shock settings to front A-4.2 B-1.6 and rear A-4.8 B-1.6, and put 0.5mm spacers under the rear arms. End result was a fairly aggressive, easy to drive car.
What kind of fan/heat sinks have people been using? I was trying a Yeah racing heat sink/fan mount, but had some issues with it popping off.
I'm very impressed, the only damage all day was a bearing from the steering rack (single rear bearing, MR84RS). It was enough to allow the rack to move 1mm between the bearings (picture below). Once the bearing was replaced, it was back to it's original tolerances. So it might be a good idea to carry a few spare in your pit box.
Before the last round of qualifying, I finally got into the flow of the track and managed to put down 2 tq runs (ran blinky settings in boosted and blinky 17.5 classes). In my boosted final, I made a big error on the first lap putting me in 3rd, but got back out front about halfway through the race. In my blinky final, the car was very good, I actually beat my tq time by a lap.
Setup-wise I didn't change much from my setup last week, just changed the shock settings to front A-4.2 B-1.6 and rear A-4.8 B-1.6, and put 0.5mm spacers under the rear arms. End result was a fairly aggressive, easy to drive car.
What kind of fan/heat sinks have people been using? I was trying a Yeah racing heat sink/fan mount, but had some issues with it popping off.
01-16-2012, 07:54 PM
#1402
bumper
I noticed a few people mention that this car can feel like it's driving on it's nose a bit. I also happened to be building my kit today and noticed that the bumper is bigger than the one I ran on my xray. This would cause the body to have to be mounted about 3-4cm further forward. Any chance that that could, at least partially, account for the difference?
01-16-2012, 08:05 PM
#1403
I had another race at the rc Niagara Track I race at (low-medium traction carpet). Earlier in the day I couldn't find my lines on this layout (different every week), so I was really testing the durability of the A700, with some big impacts.
I'm very impressed, the only damage all day was a bearing from the steering rack (single rear bearing, MR84RS). It was enough to allow the rack to move 1mm between the bearings (picture below). Once the bearing was replaced, it was back to it's original tolerances. So it might be a good idea to carry a few spare in your pit box.
Before the last round of qualifying, I finally got into the flow of the track and managed to put down 2 tq runs (ran blinky settings in boosted and blinky 17.5 classes). In my boosted final, I made a big error on the first lap putting me in 3rd, but got back out front about halfway through the race. In my blinky final, the car was very good, I actually beat my tq time by a lap.
Setup-wise I didn't change much from my setup last week, just changed the shock settings to front A-4.2 B-1.6 and rear A-4.8 B-1.6, and put 0.5mm spacers under the rear arms. End result was a fairly aggressive, easy to drive car.
What kind of fan/heat sinks have people been using? I was trying a Yeah racing heat sink/fan mount, but had some issues with it popping off.
I'm very impressed, the only damage all day was a bearing from the steering rack (single rear bearing, MR84RS). It was enough to allow the rack to move 1mm between the bearings (picture below). Once the bearing was replaced, it was back to it's original tolerances. So it might be a good idea to carry a few spare in your pit box.
Before the last round of qualifying, I finally got into the flow of the track and managed to put down 2 tq runs (ran blinky settings in boosted and blinky 17.5 classes). In my boosted final, I made a big error on the first lap putting me in 3rd, but got back out front about halfway through the race. In my blinky final, the car was very good, I actually beat my tq time by a lap.
Setup-wise I didn't change much from my setup last week, just changed the shock settings to front A-4.2 B-1.6 and rear A-4.8 B-1.6, and put 0.5mm spacers under the rear arms. End result was a fairly aggressive, easy to drive car.
What kind of fan/heat sinks have people been using? I was trying a Yeah racing heat sink/fan mount, but had some issues with it popping off.
01-16-2012, 08:09 PM
#1404
Thanks guys, I'll look into these
01-16-2012, 08:29 PM
#1405
I noticed a few people mention that this car can feel like it's driving on it's nose a bit. I also happened to be building my kit today and noticed that the bumper is bigger than the one I ran on my xray. This would cause the body to have to be mounted about 3-4cm further forward. Any chance that that could, at least partially, account for the difference?
Thing is, it does drive on it's nose, but in a good way, as the car can keep up through the rest of the corner. It's not like it turns in super hard, then breaks away. If anything, I've had to adapt to the large amount of on power steering it has, which has been nice!
HiH
Ed
01-16-2012, 10:00 PM
#1406
Tech Apprentice
To prevent to much "nose" driving you may also try to use longer front setting of camber and caster links. Use third or fourth hole from outsight seeing for the mounting. This will let the car more roll and less aggressive cornering.
Freddy
Freddy
01-17-2012, 03:27 AM
#1407
Thing is, it does drive on it's nose, but in a good way, as the car can keep up through the rest of the corner. It's not like it turns in super hard, then breaks away. If anything, I've had to adapt to the large amount of on power steering it has, which has been nice!
HiH
Ed
HiH
Ed
01-17-2012, 03:14 PM
#1409
No, I don't think so. With gear diff in front I think something around 300.000 to 500.000 works best.
With 1.000.000 it will be not able to rotate so its like a spool and no diff effect.
Yes I ran the battery full backward.
I use the hudy alu setup tools and I think it's a must have, maybe not Hudy but same type.
Freddy
With 1.000.000 it will be not able to rotate so its like a spool and no diff effect.
Yes I ran the battery full backward.
I use the hudy alu setup tools and I think it's a must have, maybe not Hudy but same type.
Freddy
Regarding your setup:
-Did ou use the standard Steering system or the IAS one?
-Do you use ST09 part when you tighten the topdeck. If yes did you use it only under the center screw or also under the pivot balls?
Hugo