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Old 02-07-2016, 06:59 PM   #9151
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Hi
I brought complete set of D3 damper a few years ago and I never got to install them and I wanted to use them for bumpy and low grip outdoor track..question would it be a waste of my time?
my car is A700L with D2 damper...have no D6 on hand ..
id say 'it depends'. the d3 dampers could work if it doesn't get too hot. i tried running them at the 2013 roar asphalt nats in florida. this was a mistake. my car would go off during the day, but be amazing in morning/evenings.
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Old 02-07-2016, 08:12 PM   #9152
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Hey, hopefully this isn;t too silly a question.

I'm having a little trouble with getting a decent damper setting on my A700.
I run on a low grip outdoor asphalt track, and I'm currently running 90.5 Front & 101.7 on the rear - both SRS 1 w soft springs - D2.1 dampers with 500 oil.

Does the higher the number mean softer or firmer suspension?

Car goes really well, but I'm sure I can get a little more speed from it and the dampers are the only thing I havn't really played with yet plus we now have 4 awesomatix cars in our club (3x a700's & 1x a800) so were all keen to figure these out before racing starts in a few weeks time.

Thanks in advance for any help,

Glen
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Old 02-07-2016, 08:20 PM   #9153
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Higher number is harder suspension, this is the only car where it seems to be set that the front needs to be softer than the back. I'm still on my D2.1 fronts (450w oil) had them on back but one was binding up so put the old dampers on and car was dialled that night so been a bit slack changing them out. Also on low grip asphalt. I run SRS 1 with soft springs as well, I found rear roll centre changes made a big difference also run a little less camber than you might on your Yoko / X Ray. You may also get more response in the A800 thread, since that car came out all the gurus seem to respond over there and support for the 700 IMO has really died off.
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Old 02-07-2016, 08:37 PM   #9154
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Glen- that is way to stiff. Please look at some old setups for asphalt.
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Old 02-07-2016, 11:23 PM   #9155
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id say 'it depends'. the d3 dampers could work if it doesn't get too hot. i tried running them at the 2013 roar asphalt nats in florida. this was a mistake. my car would go off during the day, but be amazing in morning/evenings.

Hey Mike
how about indoor carpet racing will the be fine?
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Old 02-08-2016, 11:29 AM   #9156
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Just wondering how having the very front inside links lower then the rear front links effects the car? Also having the rear ride hight a bit higher then the front? I see this on some outdoor setup sheets.
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Old 02-08-2016, 03:57 PM   #9157
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Just wondering how having the very front inside links lower then the rear front links effects the car?
That will give anti-dive. Doing the opposite at the rear end (aft ball links lower than forward link balls) gives anti-squat. I've tried small amounts (less than 1mm difference), but haven't noticed a change in handling. A better driver probably could.
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Old 02-08-2016, 04:11 PM   #9158
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That will give anti-dive. Doing the opposite at the rear end (aft ball links lower than forward link balls) gives anti-squat. I've tried small amounts (less than 1mm difference), but haven't noticed a change in handling. A better driver probably could.
I think OP means at the upper links not at at21(s).
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Old 02-08-2016, 04:30 PM   #9159
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I think OP means at the upper links not at at21(s).
Yes the top deck or AM19 and not under the lower carbon arms. Is this doing the same thing? I know you could add say 1mm to the front or rear at21s under the carbon arms. Maybe this is an easier way to adjust the same type of setting?
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Old 02-08-2016, 05:48 PM   #9160
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Hey Mike
how about indoor carpet racing will the be fine?
Maybe if low grip or slow class
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Old 02-08-2016, 11:49 PM   #9161
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Default Value of an older kit

I see in the Awesomatix shop that an Evo 2 kit is $810 and the A700 L2 is $708. What would be the value of a new 2014 Evo Kit with GD 1 gear diffs. There are no 2015 upgrades. Thanks for all who reply.
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Old 02-09-2016, 03:18 AM   #9162
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Yes the top deck or AM19 and not under the lower carbon arms. Is this doing the same thing? I know you could add say 1mm to the front or rear at21s under the carbon arms. Maybe this is an easier way to adjust the same type of setting?
Yes, it gives the same effect.

A tangential comment: The situation on our RC cars is a little simpler than on a real car with outboard brake calipers, since on real cars the braking torque from the caliper is fed into the upright, and then into the suspension arms. On our RC cars, braking torque is not fed into the upright (AM06), since there is a bearing (B106RS) and no caliper.

There will be some small interaction of the anti-dive/anti-squat effect and the number of shims on the outer ball (the one on top of the upright) due to the upright's leverage on the suspension arms; for example, if the axle is closer to the upper outer pivot ball than the lower, than the upper arm will give more anti-dive/anti-squat force for a given suspension arm angle (viewed from the side of the car) than the lower arm would.

Of course, adding shims under any of the link balls-- upper or lower, fore or aft-- will also change the roll center.

And I haven't mentioned the dynamic caster effect at all, but most racers are relatively familiar with this already-- at least those that have run pan cars, too.
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Old 02-09-2016, 11:52 AM   #9163
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Just wondering how having the very front inside links lower then the rear front links effects the car? Also having the rear ride hight a bit higher then the front? I see this on some outdoor setup sheets.
If you mean the upper link inner mounts, then this would give you reactive caster. This will angle the top arms (instead of being parallel to the ground, when viewed from the side) so When the suspension is compressed under braking the caster will reduce giving you more front grip and steering into the corner.

I run 6 degrees of caster and 4mm spacers on the front arm rear mount and 2mm spacers on the front arm front mount. So I can use more caster for more mid corner and corner exit grip without losing grip at corner entry.

This is normally used on 1/12 pan cars (which I also race). The awesomatix is the only touring car I know of with this adjustment.
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Old 02-09-2016, 12:00 PM   #9164
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If you mean the upper link inner mounts, then this would give you reactive caster. This will angle the top arms (instead of being parallel to the ground, when viewed from the side) so When the suspension is compressed under braking the caster will reduce giving you more front grip and steering into the corner.

I run 6 degrees of caster and 4mm spacers on the front arm rear mount and 2mm spacers on the front arm front mount. So I can use more caster for more mid corner and corner exit grip without losing grip at corner entry.

This is normally used on 1/12 pan cars (which I also race). The awesomatix is the only touring car I know of with this adjustment.
On my a800, and I assume on the a700, with flat upper links (same amount of spacing on front and rear link) I'm seeing caster loss in front and wheelbase caster in the rear also goes away under compression.

Not quite sure why, but it's about 1.5-2 degrees of caster change. This is with 4 degrees in front and rear.

Thoughts as to why?
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Old 02-09-2016, 12:26 PM   #9165
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On my a800, and I assume on the a700, with flat upper links (same amount of spacing on front and rear link) I'm seeing caster loss in front and wheelbase caster in the rear also goes away under compression.

Not quite sure why, but it's about 1.5-2 degrees of caster change. This is with 4 degrees in front and rear.

Thoughts as to why?
Ethan
It's because you are only pressing down on the front or rear of the car, causing the chassis to be angled in relation to the set up station.
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