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Old 01-22-2016, 02:12 PM   #9136
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Old 01-22-2016, 02:16 PM   #9137
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Ok... guys,

I just cannot make the gear diff & dampers from leaking, no matter what i do (including changing new o rings).

Is there any special way or trick you guys are uaing besides follwoing the instruction from manual??

Just in case, green slime is not stopping the leakage.
Thread lock the bleeder screws in the diff. Also thread lock the set screw that hold the spr02 in, if it gets loose at all it can cause leakage
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Old 01-22-2016, 02:37 PM   #9138
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Ok... guys,

I just cannot make the gear diff & dampers from leaking, no matter what i do (including changing new o rings).

Is there any special way or trick you guys are uaing besides follwoing the instruction from manual??

Just in case, green slime is not stopping the leakage.
I have battled oil seepage in my dampers and diff for a while too and have tried many methods without complete success. I've never had an actual leak where I can see the oil dripping out, but I do commonly get enough seepage around o-ring areas that attract dirt and road grime. So, you're definitely not completely alone with this. Here's what I'm currently trying (will find out this weekend how well it works)

For the diff: I've noticed that I always have one side that seeps oil from the outdrive (and I do loc-tite both vent screws). I believe I'm overfilling the diff, so when the oil heats up during a race it forces itself passed an o-ring. Per some instructions a few pages back on this thread I used a lighter to heat my diff up to around 120F and a surprising amount of oil came out the vent screw.

For the dampers: I'm assuming I'm dealing with a similar issue as the diff where the fluid wants to expand. I'm trying out the new P45 sponges instead of the set screws that used to go down the center of the vane. From what the team drivers say, this sponge allows the oil to expand and contract without forcing out the o-ring.

I'll report back after this weekend of racing to see how much these methods helped.
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Old 01-22-2016, 02:40 PM   #9139
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Thanks guys, thats great. I'm still running the stock ball-studs so I'll go with the Kyosho ones and see how we go.

Thanks for the help - greatly appreciated
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Old 01-22-2016, 05:09 PM   #9140
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So i have started to attend some "bigger" races, and have been having traction rolling issue's when traction comes up. I will often glue the side walls of my front tires and usually kill a bit of dual rate. But what are some minor changes i can make to my set-up to help me out. I run Mike Gee's 17.5 set-up from the 2015 roar champs at horsham. I run 500 cst not 650 and a little more rear toe as my local track is low-medium traction.

Doug S
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Old 01-22-2016, 05:44 PM   #9141
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Originally Posted by doug smith View Post
So i have started to attend some "bigger" races, and have been having traction rolling issue's when traction comes up. I will often glue the side walls of my front tires and usually kill a bit of dual rate. But what are some minor changes i can make to my set-up to help me out. I run Mike Gee's 17.5 set-up from the 2015 roar champs at horsham. I run 500 cst not 650 and a little more rear toe as my local track is low-medium traction.

Doug S
Wider front track
Narrower rear track
Glue front side walls
Lower roll center
Reduce camber gain
Soften spring rate
Reduce camber
Lighter body
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Old 01-22-2016, 10:42 PM   #9142
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Originally Posted by doug smith View Post
So i have started to attend some "bigger" races, and have been having traction rolling issue's when traction comes up. I will often glue the side walls of my front tires and usually kill a bit of dual rate. But what are some minor changes i can make to my set-up to help me out. I run Mike Gee's 17.5 set-up from the 2015 roar champs at horsham. I run 500 cst not 650 and a little more rear toe as my local track is low-medium traction.

Doug S
Glue is the best thing. I had glued tires at that race. At that race I could have not glued and chased the setup and still risked being tippy, so I glued instead, don't have to worry about flipping and be aggressive with the setup and driving. This is my philosophy any time you deal with being tippy.

If you want to try another change that may help, add a 1mm shin under the am06s (don't forget to reset all the alignment)
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Old 01-23-2016, 02:51 AM   #9143
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Originally Posted by geeunit1014 View Post
Glue is the best thing. I had glued tires at that race. At that race I could have not glued and chased the setup and still risked being tippy, so I glued instead, don't have to worry about flipping and be aggressive with the setup and driving. This is my philosophy any time you deal with being tippy.

If you want to try another change that may help, add a 1mm shin under the am06s (don't forget to reset all the alignment)
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Originally Posted by malkiy View Post
Wider front track
Narrower rear track
Glue front side walls
Lower roll center
Reduce camber gain
Soften spring rate
Reduce camber
Lighter body
Thank you both, that is the kind of information i was looking for. I felt like i was using glued sidewalls as a crutch for a faulty setup.

Doug S.
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Old 01-23-2016, 07:30 PM   #9144
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I hope you guys are using those blitz(0.5mm) 60gram bodies instead of the hefty 90gram so called lightweight bodies... No traction roll after that.....
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Old 01-23-2016, 08:21 PM   #9145
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I ran my Evo 2 last night thought I had sorted the suspension binding issue but it raised it's ugly head again in qual 2, ended up changing out the back shocks from the D2.1 to my old R6/L6 sealed units and the issue went away so the problem is in the actual damper unit. Car started off tail happy ended up the ride height was wrong so fixed that and dropped the inner camber link on the back from 3mm to 2mm and bam car was hooked up. Did a PB for the last two finals and won the night for 21.5. Getting there slowly with this car.
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Old 01-24-2016, 05:27 AM   #9146
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I ran my Evo 2 last night thought I had sorted the suspension binding issue but it raised it's ugly head again in qual 2, ended up changing out the back shocks from the D2.1 to my old R6/L6 sealed units and the issue went away so the problem is in the actual damper unit.
Try putting a drop of oil where the SPR02 and ST05 go through the "window" in the SPR01. I had a similar problem, where I would press the car down on my setup plate and could both hear and feel something "catching" as the suspension compressed. Some sideways movement of the SPR02 and ST05 is necessary through the SPR01 as the damper rotates, and the oil helps facilitate this movement.
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Old 01-26-2016, 08:44 AM   #9147
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Default hudy setup caster scales

hi guys

Unfortunately I realized last race that not all Hudy setup systems have the same caster scales...
As you can see on the pic there are narrow and wide caster scales.
The pic shows two setup system from a different batch.

Almost all systems I saw have the narrow scales. The wide scale system was ordered about 9 months ago. I figured out that all new systems should have now the wide scale...

So please check your systems. Most setups you can find (e.g. from Max and Marcel) are with a narrow scale system.

If you adjust 4 degrees with wide scales, it's about 6 degrees with narrow scales
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Old 02-02-2016, 06:30 AM   #9148
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Hi Guys,
I see that the majority drivers moved over to the A800 cars, but i am in desperate need for a setup for asphalt. The track is medium length, very bumpy and does have off camber turns, with a tight infield. The car is very twitchy and bounces down the straight. I see on some of the setup sheets people are running thick oils in the dampers on bumpy tracks, how would that work as the suspension feels lazy with thick oils. At least the dampers wont leak. I am running a A700 EVO 2 carbon with Team Powers 34 spec tires. Even a decent starting setup, just so the car can soak up the bumps better would also help.
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Old 02-02-2016, 09:56 AM   #9149
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Hi Guys,
I see that the majority drivers moved over to the A800 cars, but i am in desperate need for a setup for asphalt. The track is medium length, very bumpy and does have off camber turns, with a tight infield. The car is very twitchy and bounces down the straight. I see on some of the setup sheets people are running thick oils in the dampers on bumpy tracks, how would that work as the suspension feels lazy with thick oils. At least the dampers wont leak. I am running a A700 EVO 2 carbon with Team Powers 34 spec tires. Even a decent starting setup, just so the car can soak up the bumps better would also help.
What worked very well for bumpy tracks on asphalt is to drill ( enlarge ) the holes in the damper vanes to 1.3 mm ( standard holes are about .9 mm ). And use 3k oil. Of course it's a modification so you'd want an extra set of 4 damper vanes on hand because there is no way to put the "genie back in the bottle", so to speak.

Jake
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Old 02-07-2016, 04:23 PM   #9150
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Default D3 damper

Hi
I brought complete set of D3 damper a few years ago and I never got to install them and I wanted to use them for bumpy and low grip outdoor track..question would it be a waste of my time?
my car is A700L with D2 damper...have no D6 on hand ..
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