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Old 01-06-2016, 08:34 PM   #9106
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Take the pinion off and roll the car. It should be plenty smooth despite being on the loud side.

Gear mesh is a little tougher to get right but make sure you're not too tight. I run without gear covers, my drivetrain is super smooth, but it is definitely louder than a belt car and is perfectly normal.
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Old 01-06-2016, 09:05 PM   #9107
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I finally got to do a test run with my a700 after buying it 2nd hand and rebuilding it and I have virtually no drivetrain noise at all, I was actually quite surprised as I thought these things were supposed to be noisy. I didn't really have to much trouble with gear mesh either although I am running 48p gears.
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Old 01-06-2016, 10:21 PM   #9108
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It depends on the motor, and what motor layout, the transverse layout was very noisy. A lot of noise can come if the centre driveshaft is slightly loose, and vibrates.
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Old 01-07-2016, 12:00 AM   #9109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hobbs View Post
Thanks.

I am still in the process of learning this kit.

Next question
Motor mount flex which allows us to set mode 1, 2, 3, 4.
What is the effect of each mode??? What most use for 17.5T blinky class??

Then the piece of am69, why we need it in mode 3 & 4 only?? What is its effect??

Thanks.
Advice, plz....
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Old 01-07-2016, 03:34 AM   #9110
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Mode 3
Throw out the am69
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Old 01-07-2016, 05:55 PM   #9111
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Well after reading 500 pages of this and the A800 thread, every article on Awesomatix USA and Petitrc I have come up with what looks to me like a workable starting point for a low-medium grip Outdoor Asphalt mixed track which we run at.

(1/8 Pan car laps around 14 seconds, 1/10 Mod 16-17 and 21.5 around 21)

Would greatly appreciate any and all feedback and suggestions particularly from the resident Awesomatix gurus.
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Old 01-07-2016, 06:21 PM   #9112
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Looks good, however, is there a reason you are running 1.5 and 2.75 mm shim on the rear inner links?

I would also look at going softer on the front and rear dampers.

Also look at running 1 million in the front differential.
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Old 01-07-2016, 06:30 PM   #9113
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Looks good, however, is there a reason you are running 1.5 and 2.75 mm shim on the rear inner links?

I would also look at going softer on the front and rear dampers.

Also look at running 1 million in the front differential.
Softer than what I have? It feels pretty soft as it is, and I don't have sway bars on?

On the rear shims I was under the impression it is like having rear kick up, which is what I always used to run on the T4, should I go down to 1.5 front and back or up to 2.75?

As for the front diff, good idea, I will also try with a spool.
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Old 01-07-2016, 07:05 PM   #9114
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The terminology for kick-up and anti-dive applies to the front end and anti-squat refers to the rear.

As for what your trying to achieve. I assume you want to run anti-squat? If so, you want to run a shim under the lower suspension arm which will produce positive anti-squat. This will reduce the amount the car will squat under acceleration and give more steering on and off power.

negative anti-squat is the opposite
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Old 01-07-2016, 07:29 PM   #9115
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...with the lack of action here I almost feel like I should "have" the A800 but ...
For whatever it's worth, following is a grain of salt from me.

Those who have an A700-series chassis like me need not abandon ship.

No slight intended to the A800, which surely will be fantastic. However, my first experience in Mod TC with my new A800 is not on par with the first experience I had in Mod TC with my A700-series.

I'm significantly faster and more consistent with my trusty A700-series. Granted, there are many factors involved in these things but, at the moment, my A700-series wins over my A800.

So, for me, the jury has not returned a verdict. The A700-series chassis is a cutting edge touring car chassis and excellent alternative for all classes.

The A700 is still a fantastic chassis and, in my humble opinion, will remain so.
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Old 01-09-2016, 04:03 PM   #9116
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I've been hearing about this bearing mod, and all I can find is to put a bearing on the ffg. Is that all it is or is there something more to it? Also I was looking at getting a raceberry chassis, are they worth it and where can I find them for the 700 series cars?
Thanks
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Old 01-09-2016, 09:40 PM   #9117
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So ran with my set up last night after changing both to 1. 5mm spacers on the back, car having issues for front grip (scrubbing) so changing front camber to 1 degree out helped (from 1.5) had silly little issues, servo came loose in a crash, and then all through the finals the back left kept binding up which played havoc with the handling, couldn't address it at the track but still managed the fastest lap time of the day despite the issues. Car does still understeer off power though. Found some scoring on the shock holder but no idea how it would have happened or why the back left is binding up, arms are free, cvd's are fine shock is smooth so puzzled.
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Old 01-15-2016, 06:37 AM   #9118
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Refer to the motor mount 2 (mm2) build instruction, the diagram shows only 3 out of 5 screw holes are used when mounting the bulkhead onto chassis plate.

Is this right or just printing error???
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Old 01-15-2016, 07:00 AM   #9119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hobbs View Post
Refer to the motor mount 2 (mm2) build instruction, the diagram shows only 3 out of 5 screw holes are used when mounting the bulkhead onto chassis plate.

Is this right or just printing error???
Completely normal.
It's to add more flex in the rear. I run like that for more than a year without issue. You can try in the front but in my case the car was inconsistent.
To help with the flex you can also remove the center screw for the shock bracket (AM08).
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Old 01-18-2016, 01:09 PM   #9120
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Anyone have a good starting point recommendation for D2.1 dampers on an Evo1 Carbon chassis for carpet? Mainly damper gap distances. Also running Losi 45wt in them with P45 insert.
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