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Old 12-28-2015, 08:16 PM   #9091
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Can someone confirm this part list is correct and all I need for the d2.1 upgrade
4 x D2.1-S Damper Set
2 x AM17L
2 x AM17r
also is the sd2 Spur Damper Set worth getting?
Damper holders should be the same so use the old ones, I justdid the 4 * D2.1-S and upgraded to the longer shock rods at the same time.

As for the spur damper, depends on the class. I have tried SD1 in 21.5 and it didn't make much difference besides make the spur harder to change out
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Old 12-28-2015, 08:28 PM   #9092
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Damper holders should be the same so use the old ones, I justdid the 4 * D2.1-S and upgraded to the longer shock rods at the same time.

As for the spur damper, depends on the class. I have tried SD1 in 21.5 and it didn't make much difference besides make the spur harder to change out
Thanks nexxus, I think I need the am17's because they are the original a700 dampers and from memory as I don't have them in front of me that part is fixed to the damper body ie one complete unit. I may have to check them again just to be sure unless you or someone else can confirm.

So the longer shock rods give you more adjustment?
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Old 12-29-2015, 01:21 AM   #9093
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Thanks nexxus, I think I need the am17's because they are the original a700 dampers and from memory as I don't have them in front of me that part is fixed to the damper body ie one complete unit. I may have to check them again just to be sure unless you or someone else can confirm.

So the longer shock rods give you more adjustment?
the A700 Ex was the car with integrated shock and holder and were aluminum color they weren't anodized. The longer shock rods can help with bending the SPR02 on hard impacts.
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Old 12-29-2015, 02:15 AM   #9094
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the A700 Ex was the car with integrated shock and holder and were aluminum color they weren't anodized. The longer shock rods can help with bending the SPR02 on hard impacts.
Thanks bkspeedo, I will add those to the order I think. Yes I was able to have a look at my dampers and was as I suspected, Still trying to justify spending that much on dampers though, but I guess its worth replacing the originals.
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Old 12-30-2015, 03:21 AM   #9095
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Just built my set of 2.1 dampers, took a while, I noticed the cap is a bit tricky to screw down you have to make sure the o ring is level before you start screwing down as it's easy to cross thread. Also the o ring bearing and shim take a bit of work to get fully seated, and even when done they tend to pop back up. Am thinking I may fit a spr02 to each shock to sort of keep it all packed down tight and leave them on the bench a few days to test for leaks before fitting to the car.

(Used TLR 37.5 W oil which is around 500 cst)
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Old 12-31-2015, 08:17 PM   #9096
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I was looking at some setup sheets and on Mike Gee's setup from the Halloween Classic, it says that the rear caster is 4 degrees (longer). What exactly is meant by longer?
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Old 12-31-2015, 08:19 PM   #9097
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I was looking at some setup sheets and on Mike Gee's setup from the Halloween Classic, it says that the rear caster is 4 degrees (longer). What exactly is meant by longer?
The rear upright is leaned backwards, making the car longer.
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Old 12-31-2015, 08:57 PM   #9098
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The rear upright is leaned backwards, making the car longer.
So leaning backwards would be negative 4 degrees of caster so that the upright is leaning towards the front of the car?
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Old 12-31-2015, 09:09 PM   #9099
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So leaning backwards would be negative 4 degrees of caster so that the upright is leaning towards the front of the car?
I'm sure he meant making the car longer. So positive caster, the rear upright leaned towards the rear of the car.
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Old 01-01-2016, 03:39 PM   #9100
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The top of the hub leaning forwards is negative caster and will shorten the wheel base. The top leaning backwards is positive (like the front suspension) and will lengthen the wheel base.
Also the wheelbase changes depending on which chassis you use.
I used to run 4 degree negative rear caster on the carbon a700ex chassis, but I've now fitted a aluminium chassis (C01AL-S2) and found the rear wheels didn't line up with the wheel arches. I now have to use 4 degrees positive rear caster to get the same wheelbase.
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Old 01-01-2016, 03:42 PM   #9101
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The c01al-s and c01al-s2 have a shorter wheelbase. Front is approx 1.1mm shorter, and 0.8mm rear shorter.
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Old 01-02-2016, 02:42 AM   #9102
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The c01al-s and c01al-s2 have a shorter wheelbase. Front is approx 1.1mm shorter, and 0.8mm rear shorter.
That's strange the front wheel are in the middle off the arches. I thought it was just the rear as I had to file the rear lower arm c04 slightly as they touched the rear bulkhead am43 with the RFG fitted.
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Old 01-04-2016, 09:57 PM   #9103
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Just built my set of 2.1 dampers, took a while, I noticed the cap is a bit tricky to screw down you have to make sure the o ring is level before you start screwing down as it's easy to cross thread. Also the o ring bearing and shim take a bit of work to get fully seated, and even when done they tend to pop back up. Am thinking I may fit a spr02 to each shock to sort of keep it all packed down tight and leave them on the bench a few days to test for leaks before fitting to the car.

(Used TLR 37.5 W oil which is around 500 cst)
Ok I figured this out by taking the caps off fitting the bearing and o ring then tightening, they were not seating properly due to the oil pressure on the o ring I think, but all good now (been on my desk assembled on their sides for a few days and no leaks)

.....with the lack of action here I almost feel like I should "have" the A800 but will prob wait until the later kits come out with these build issues sorted.

Can I use a spare ffg set I have to fit a rfg and only buy a few components rather than purchase a full kit?
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Old 01-06-2016, 03:38 PM   #9104
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Can I use a spare ffg set I have to fit a rfg and only buy a few components rather than purchase a full kit?
Yes, you'll need am80, am81, am82, am83 and the 0.1mm shims. I swapped the am43 and am44 from the RFG to the FFG to convert it to FFG1.1
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Old 01-06-2016, 07:49 PM   #9105
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Default Geat Chatter problem

I have a used 700 EVO1 with GD2 diff. I have a problem with significant gear chatter when first applying throttle. I have added a shim to the rear cone gear but still have the chatter. Any suggestions will be much appreciated. I've noticed that this chassis with the longitudinal motor setup is very difficult to achieve and confirm a proper gear mesh between the motor pinion and the spur gear.
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