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Old 11-30-2015, 06:50 PM   #9016
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Originally Posted by daktulos View Post
If you go that way PM me I can share you a Gee inspired setup that work well for me and some parts or modification that are needed to convert a L to an aluminum chassis.
Two options
1. C01al-s + am33
2. C01al-s2 + am33 + mm2
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Old 11-30-2015, 07:18 PM   #9017
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Originally Posted by hanulec View Post
Two options
1. C01al-s + am33
2. C01al-s2 + am33 + mm2
Looks like option 2 would be the way to go. I'm assuming the MM2 is not compatible with the C01al-s.
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Old 11-30-2015, 07:25 PM   #9018
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Looks like option 2 would be the way to go. I'm assuming the MM2 is not compatible with the C01al-s.
both are good options.
adding the D2.1 dampers is probably a better use of $$ vs the different motor mount.

i still remember my evo + c01al-s car --- it was very quick. got me my most recent big race wins (2014 halloween classic).
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Old 12-01-2015, 05:08 AM   #9019
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I think hanulec have a good point with the C01Al-S chassis and it may be cheaper/simpler on the long run...
You are able to keep your original motor mount for now and you don't need to shave the P12 swaybar post (needed with original C04 arm on a S2 chassis).

The MM2 if I remember well is "retrofitable" on all chassis but everything under the S2 you can only run the motor mount in mode 1-2-3. You may need to grind the chassis if you use the AM69 battery isolator on older chassis or simply don't use it.
Personally I always run in mode 3 and on really low grip mode 2.

I don't want to mix you up or argue with hanulec but you may run the shorter AM30-5 brace with an L car to have the option to run the servo more inside or run the longer AM33-5 and experiment with screw placement.
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Old 12-01-2015, 05:48 AM   #9020
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All opinions welcome fellas
These a700 have a lot of life in them still
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Old 12-01-2015, 07:09 AM   #9021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hanulec View Post
both are good options.
adding the D2.1 dampers is probably a better use of $$ vs the different motor mount.

i still remember my evo + c01al-s car --- it was very quick. got me my most recent big race wins (2014 halloween classic).
Quote:
Originally Posted by daktulos View Post
I think hanulec have a good point with the C01Al-S chassis and it may be cheaper/simpler on the long run...
You are able to keep your original motor mount for now and you don't need to shave the P12 swaybar post (needed with original C04 arm on a S2 chassis).

The MM2 if I remember well is "retrofitable" on all chassis but everything under the S2 you can only run the motor mount in mode 1-2-3. You may need to grind the chassis if you use the AM69 battery isolator on older chassis or simply don't use it.
Personally I always run in mode 3 and on really low grip mode 2.

I don't want to mix you up or argue with hanulec but you may run the shorter AM30-5 brace with an L car to have the option to run the servo more inside or run the longer AM33-5 and experiment with screw placement.
I also agree that the D2.1 dampers are a better use of money than the MM2 and that's why I already have the new dampers installed. I've gotten used to changing pinion gears and setting gear mesh as it is right now so the MM2 is nice to have but it's not necessary.

I think I just discovered something new as I didn't know about mode 2 or 3 before. I will look into this later as I don't even know what mode my car is setup with.

Another question is the AM11 support tower for the drive shaft, do I still need this if I have the AM33-5 or AM30-5 stiffener? It looks like it won't mount on the car with the stiffener in place.
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Old 12-01-2015, 07:17 AM   #9022
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Originally Posted by jdawg81 View Post
I also agree that the D2.1 dampers are a better use of money than the MM2 and that's why I already have the new dampers installed. I've gotten used to changing pinion gears and setting gear mesh as it is right now so the MM2 is nice to have but it's not necessary.

I think I just discovered something new as I didn't know about mode 2 or 3 before. I will look into this later as I don't even know what mode my car is setup with.

Another question is the AM11 support tower for the drive shaft, do I still need this if I have the AM33-5 or AM30-5 stiffener? It looks like it won't mount on the car with the stiffener in place.
You should use AT04-2 large diameter shaft if you plan to not use the bearing support. The bearing support can't be used with the aluminum chassis unless you have the FFG which has it's own shaft bearing support.

http://shop.awesomatixusa.com/a700-at04-2.html
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Old 12-01-2015, 07:35 AM   #9023
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdawg81 View Post
I also agree that the D2.1 dampers are a better use of money than the MM2 and that's why I already have the new dampers installed. I've gotten used to changing pinion gears and setting gear mesh as it is right now so the MM2 is nice to have but it's not necessary.

I think I just discovered something new as I didn't know about mode 2 or 3 before. I will look into this later as I don't even know what mode my car is setup with.

Another question is the AM11 support tower for the drive shaft, do I still need this if I have the AM33-5 or AM30-5 stiffener? It looks like it won't mount on the car with the stiffener in place.
mode are for the MM2 motor mount...
http://awesomatix.info/en/tipps-tricks/anleitung-mm2/

For the stiffener if you want to use the AM11 you will need the shorter AM30-5 so it can pass in a hole thru the brace...The S2 chassis only have one screw hole for the AM11 tower so if you go with the S2 just use the AT04-2 thick shaft as malkiy mention this is a nice cheap option!
http://shop.awesomatixusa.com/index....scription=true
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Old 12-01-2015, 10:10 PM   #9024
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I've decided to go with the C01AL-S, AM33-5 and AT04 shaft as I didn't want to spend the extra money on the MM2 that's required with the C01AL-S2. I've already placed an order for the parts so I'm looking forward to getting some track time with the car next January once I get the new parts installed.
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Old 12-02-2015, 10:35 AM   #9025
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any tips for buying a used awesomatix? which version is the best to get?
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Old 12-02-2015, 06:36 PM   #9026
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any tips for buying a used awesomatix? which version is the best to get?
best is pretty subjective. depends upon motor class and surface. for carpet -- alloy chassis. any kit w/ D2/D2.1 shocks is relatively more up2date than others...
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Old 12-02-2015, 07:28 PM   #9027
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best is pretty subjective. depends upon motor class and surface. for carpet -- alloy chassis. any kit w/ D2/D2.1 shocks is relatively more up2date than others...
trying to get back into inroad so i would say 17.5 and carpet
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Old 12-02-2015, 08:50 PM   #9028
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this is a good car for the price. Awesomatix A700L
seen it in person too.. well cared for, and sold results...
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Old 12-03-2015, 07:21 PM   #9029
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Hi guys (and girls?)
I have purchased an A700 Evo 2nd hand, which have done some seasons in stock (17,5t) before me (my kind way of saying it has had some crashes). I´m doing my 2nd season and doing good in the series. Now here is a question for you tech guys! I borrowed a set of corner weights to check the weight on each seperate wheel, but It´s heavy on front left and rear right. My fear is that the chassis is bend, but I´ve already loosend all screws twistet a bit and tightened them again. But do you guys have a better way of checking this? And if its the case, is the only option to chance the chassis?

Here are some specs on my A700 evo.
Awesomatix A700 L carbon chassis (the one with the flex adjustable grows in both ends)
5700LCG battery (R1 position) (battery complete in)
AS-700L in the inner position
Hobbywing Xerun 3.1 esc
Sanwa RX 471
LRP X20 17,5
LRP Radical Motor Heatsink + Fan

Had all wheels weight themselfs and they are within 0.1g
All rollbars are disconnected for no influence!
Complete setup floor is set with a spirit level for perfect result.

The weight scales tells roughly something like:
LF: 320g
RF: 280g
LR: 350g
RR: 370g

Looking forward to hopefully learn something valuable from some of you techguys out there! Really really love my little russian racer, but as everybody i wanna get better and better!
I would like to thank a lot of you for great night reading for a nerd like me. It´s interesting and really valuable for me to gain on your observations and experiences on your tests and races! Thanks!
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Old 12-03-2015, 07:39 PM   #9030
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Rasmus - please check chassis on a flat board/glass.

weights different from corner to corner can be caused by many things-
- bad balance of electronics/weight
- tweak
- bent spr01/spr02
- bent arms
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