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Old 08-23-2015, 05:58 PM   #8731
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Got impatient and decided to give this thing a go in 21.5 blinky with whatever setup was on it from the guy I bought it from, besides an issue with the centre shaft coming loose (fixed by putting it in the other way) the car felt good. Laptimes were down as I was running a Tekin RS Gen 2 ESC with my R1 Wurks motor, and the experience I have had previously with Tekin Blinky ESC (gen 1 RS Pro) hasn't changed, still slower than other brands. Lap times were 20.2-20.7 with the Tekin, after racing put my Hobbywing V3.1 in and was in the 19.4-19.8 range.
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Old 08-24-2015, 10:13 AM   #8732
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Default Part number differences

What is the difference between part number C04 and C04M?

Is C04 still available or is C04M the replacement for C04?

Thanks..
Brian
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Old 08-24-2015, 10:30 AM   #8733
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C04M is a slightly different shape to clear the sway bar mounts on the newer chassis which is narrower. You can run them on older cars no problem, but are required for evo2/L2 cars, or cars upgraded with ALS2/L2 chassis
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Old 08-24-2015, 10:38 AM   #8734
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C04 is EOL
C04m is the carbon replacement.
C04al is an alloy alternative.
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Old 08-24-2015, 10:39 AM   #8735
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Originally Posted by geeunit1014 View Post
C04M is a slightly different shape to clear the sway bar mounts on the newer chassis which is narrower. You can run them on older cars no problem, but are required for evo2/L2 cars, or cars upgraded with ALS2/L2 chassis
Thank you Mike for the clarification. I am running an A700L. What a great car this is!!!!! You can just keep pushing, pushing and pushing the chassis and it takes it and asks for more.. It truly lives up to its name Awesomatix.
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Old 08-24-2015, 10:40 AM   #8736
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Thumbs up RFG

Running Mod I ran the new RFG parts on low grip asphalt yesterday.
A very significant increase in rear on power stability and yet maintained steering.

Jake
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Old 08-24-2015, 10:43 AM   #8737
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hana166 View Post
The advice from fellow posters is all correct, but you are not completely wrong. You lose grip with a stiffer car, therefore response and initial steering is less but when fully transitioned in the middle of the corner there will be less (rear) grip - therefore more cornerspeed.

A softer (baseplate) car will turn harder initially but settle on the rear when fully transitioned so you lose steering in the middle of the corner. Feels planted but might actually be slow. Its more obvious in long fast sweepers but still noticeable in slow corners where the car settles or grips up more at the apex. Can be useful in modified as it helps getting on the power.

Also if you are using the inner position on the steering arm there is more ackermann and this, while making the car feel great, slows the corner speed by taking away midcorner steering because the outer wheel has less lock and also there is a bigger scrub angle between the two front wheels, and this robs speed. Often you can't even see it on the track, only in the laptime.
Thank you very much, this makes a lot of sense and really helps it all click together.

Fortunately I was able to hit the track armed with a lap timer (which I don't usually have during practice) and was really able to see the subtle differences. Ultimately I found using the outer holes on the steering arms helped the most. I think I'm starting to grasp this whole setup thing; I tried this before I read your post because it seemed like the outside wheel having more lock would help. So it's nice to have confirmation on this both from you and lap times. I know others have recommended this setting, I just wasn't sure why until now.

I was able to TQ with my car on Sunday, so all of the changes were definitely in the right direction. Unfortunately I didn't finish the main, but that was due to my own unfortunate driving decisions, definitely wasn't the car. I can't thank you guys enough for the level of support I get on this thread.
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Old 08-25-2015, 09:07 AM   #8738
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Question, in order to change the rear bearings that are on the diff does that mean I will have to charge the diff fluid as it looks in the manual the outdrives are held in with O rings ? Plus the outdrives seem to be hard to get out.
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Old 08-25-2015, 10:02 AM   #8739
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Quote:
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Question, in order to change the rear bearings that are on the diff does that mean I will have to charge the diff fluid as it looks in the manual the outdrives are held in with O rings ? Plus the outdrives seem to be hard to get out.
To change the diff bearings, all you have to do is remove the outdrives. The O ring on the outdrive only serves to hold a small pin in place which holds the outdrive on. Just remove the O ring, then the pin, then outdrive, and the bearing will slide off. No need to open the diff at all to change bearings.

Edit - I assume you are referring to the 2 bearings on the outside of the diff that the diff rides on, and not the 2 bearings inside the diff. Obviously, those you would need to disassemble the whole diff to get to.

Last edited by RC Professor; 08-25-2015 at 10:12 AM.
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Old 08-25-2015, 01:37 PM   #8740
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RC Professor View Post
To change the diff bearings, all you have to do is remove the outdrives. The O ring on the outdrive only serves to hold a small pin in place which holds the outdrive on. Just remove the O ring, then the pin, then outdrive, and the bearing will slide off. No need to open the diff at all to change bearings.

Edit - I assume you are referring to the 2 bearings on the outside of the diff that the diff rides on, and not the 2 bearings inside the diff. Obviously, those you would need to disassemble the whole diff to get to.
Yes the bearings on the outside of the diff. Thanks for your help.
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Old 08-26-2015, 02:14 AM   #8741
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Hi guys

I have a kit for sale.
See details here or click on the photo:

JD & RACING Blog - Kit for sale

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Old 08-26-2015, 05:37 AM   #8742
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nice ride for sure.. ^^^^
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Old 08-26-2015, 12:56 PM   #8743
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RC Professor View Post
To change the diff bearings, all you have to do is remove the outdrives. The O ring on the outdrive only serves to hold a small pin in place which holds the outdrive on. Just remove the O ring, then the pin, then outdrive, and the bearing will slide off. No need to open the diff at all to change bearings.

Edit - I assume you are referring to the 2 bearings on the outside of the diff that the diff rides on, and not the 2 bearings inside the diff. Obviously, those you would need to disassemble the whole diff to get to.
Got it. Had to go to the back of the manual to find it. Bought 2 used chassis and both are a little different. Thanks again
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Old 08-30-2015, 08:26 AM   #8744
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Hello,

No pictures of the Viljami car to the euro?
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Old 08-30-2015, 10:57 AM   #8745
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Quote:
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Hello,

No pictures of the Viljami car to the euro?
He ran an Evo2 / alloy chassis / production RFG.
No top deck to help increase overall chassis grip
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