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Old 08-20-2015, 04:51 AM   #8716
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Thanks hanulec and Monti
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Old 08-20-2015, 11:02 AM   #8717
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Originally Posted by nexxus View Post
What would I need to upgrade my Evo to Evo 2? I have done the MM2, I know shocks are a major one, what else? Also for outdoor asphalt, CF chassis not alloy I take it? (as with other TC's) Also got told not to run sway bars? But on the plus side shimmed everything up last night, no driveshaft play and R1 21.5 is in geared 31/60
I couldn't recommend getting the D2.1 dampers more. I have been recently upgrading an older Evo 1 to get it in line with my Evo 2's handling, and the dampers were by far the best thing I did for bumpy asphalt. Aside from dampers, the only other thing I can think of is upgrading your FFG if you don't have the bearing version of the AM46. The newer AM46-1 along with the AM54-3 helps keep the FFG from binding while the chassis flexes.

I have so far had the best results with my carbon chassis, but I have a new setup on my alloy car that I will be trying this weekend, so I will report back on that one. I don't run top decks on either chassis. Running without sway bars can definitely give you more traction, but the car will be slower to respond because of the additional roll. I will often run with only a front sway bar when I have issues keeping my rear end locked down. Your results may vary, so I'd say try it out and see how you like it.


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The thicker oil would help with the shocks not leaking?
This is the best stuff to avoid leaking dampers. I squeeze out a generous amount on to a piece of glass (or anything that won't absorb moisture) and submerge my O-rings in it for at least a day or two before I assemble the dampers. This lubricates and expands the O-rings to keep a better seal. I have also found putting a little thread locker on the bleeder set-screw helps keep the oil from seeping through the threads. Just make sure to follow the damper assembly instructions in the Evo 2 manual on page 10.
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Last edited by WesRaven; 08-20-2015 at 11:20 AM.
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Old 08-20-2015, 12:48 PM   #8718
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Hey guys, I'm looking to get some more mid-corner steering out of my car at my local asphalt track, and I'm curious what areas you would try adjusting to accomplish this. My initial turn-in is fantastic, I have no issues keeping the rear end where it should be, and my exit speed is explosive... but it feels like I have more understeer than I would like in the middle of the corner. I was considering trying to swap the spool with a diff to see what that does. I'm going to have a solid day to practice and tweak things this Saturday, any suggestions?

For what it's worth, I'm running 17.5 blinky.
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Old 08-20-2015, 01:07 PM   #8719
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Wes- top deck/stiffer chassis.
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Old 08-20-2015, 01:19 PM   #8720
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Weird, it felt like I lost steering last time I tried the top-deck. I'll give it another go, thanks.
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Old 08-20-2015, 01:23 PM   #8721
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Two more things-

Less rear toe under compression (add shims to ball stud on am23)

(Last choice) raise rear inner camber links (this robs overall rear bite... Sometimes dangerous to do on asphalt)
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Old 08-20-2015, 01:59 PM   #8722
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WesRaven View Post
Hey guys, I'm looking to get some more mid-corner steering out of my car at my local asphalt track, and I'm curious what areas you would try adjusting to accomplish this. My initial turn-in is fantastic, I have no issues keeping the rear end where it should be, and my exit speed is explosive... but it feels like I have more understeer than I would like in the middle of the corner. I was considering trying to swap the spool with a diff to see what that does. I'm going to have a solid day to practice and tweak things this Saturday, any suggestions?

For what it's worth, I'm running 17.5 blinky.
Lowering the roll center for me generally gives more corner speed. Stiffer chassis as well, but it will generally expose more handling flaws in the setup. I think I saw you mentioned you had the carbon chassis, when I tried it , it felt good but was not fast in the middle of the corner like the ALU chassis was. I would imagine it would be worse without a topdeck. Spool vs diff.. I would stick with the spool for 17.5. Diff feels like it has no drive on exit, even with 2.5M oil or earplugs.
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Old 08-20-2015, 02:25 PM   #8723
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Thanks for the input guys. Aside from my odd results with the top-deck it looks like I'm on the right track. I have been playing with my dynamic rear toe, and was considering lessening my dynamic camber in the rear.

My carbon car (Raceberry chassis) feels amazing at the moment, but its the one mainly suffering from mid-corner speed. This weekend I'm trying out my alloy car with the same setup from the carbon car, except I just lowered the roll center a bit more.

I'm mainly trying to decide which chassis I want to use for the ROAR Nats at Tamiya. Just picked up a personal lap timer, time to hit the track and see what does what.
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Old 08-20-2015, 02:28 PM   #8724
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WesRaven View Post
Hey guys, I'm looking to get some more mid-corner steering out of my car at my local asphalt track, and I'm curious what areas you would try adjusting to accomplish this. My initial turn-in is fantastic, I have no issues keeping the rear end where it should be, and my exit speed is explosive... but it feels like I have more understeer than I would like in the middle of the corner. I was considering trying to swap the spool with a diff to see what that does. I'm going to have a solid day to practice and tweak things this Saturday, any suggestions?

For what it's worth, I'm running 17.5 blinky.
I'm not sure if the Aweso has the steering arms on top or bottom on the hub, if its on the bottom you can put a small (0.5mm) shim on it to lower the outer ball which will change the bumpsteer a little and will give you a little bit extra mid corner steering, will take away a tiny bit of exit steering though, it's a very useful little adjustment I used to use on the TC4
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Old 08-20-2015, 02:36 PM   #8725
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I'm not sure if the Aweso has the steering arms on top or bottom on the hub, if its on the bottom you can put a small (0.5mm) shim on it to lower the outer ball which will change the bumpsteer a little and will give you a little bit extra mid corner steering, will take away a tiny bit of exit steering though, it's a very useful little adjustment I used to use on the TC4
Interesting thought. Well I'll have time to try a bunch of stuff during my practice day, I'll throw this into the mix as well. I assume you mean to increase the bump steer right? So I'll have more toe-in under suspension load?
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Old 08-20-2015, 02:57 PM   #8726
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More bump toe (less shims under ball) for me increases reactiveness but less steering overall.

I know I'm going to Nat's with alloy chassis cars
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Old 08-20-2015, 03:21 PM   #8727
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Originally Posted by WesRaven View Post
Interesting thought. Well I'll have time to try a bunch of stuff during my practice day, I'll throw this into the mix as well. I assume you mean to increase the bump steer right? So I'll have more toe-in under suspension load?
Increasing the bump steer yes, increasing meaning it toes the front wheels in slightly, or lessens the amount of toe out gain as the case may be.
Moving the outer ball down will lessen the loss of steering angle on the outer wheel when the car is fully rolled over and loaded up in the middle of the corner.
Sometimes you lose more time with the loss of exit steering than you gain in the middle of the corner though but worth a try as it's a simple quick change
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Old 08-23-2015, 07:07 AM   #8728
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Originally Posted by WesRaven View Post
Weird, it felt like I lost steering last time I tried the top-deck. I'll give it another go, thanks.
The advice from fellow posters is all correct, but you are not completely wrong. You lose grip with a stiffer car, therefore response and initial steering is less but when fully transitioned in the middle of the corner there will be less (rear) grip - therefore more cornerspeed.

A softer (baseplate) car will turn harder initially but settle on the rear when fully transitioned so you lose steering in the middle of the corner. Feels planted but might actually be slow. Its more obvious in long fast sweepers but still noticeable in slow corners where the car settles or grips up more at the apex. Can be useful in modified as it helps getting on the power.

Also if you are using the inner position on the steering arm there is more ackermann and this, while making the car feel great, slows the corner speed by taking away midcorner steering because the outer wheel has less lock and also there is a bigger scrub angle between the two front wheels, and this robs speed. Often you can't even see it on the track, only in the laptime.

Last edited by hana166; 08-23-2015 at 07:21 AM.
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Old 08-23-2015, 09:42 AM   #8729
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Generally if a tc feels planted -- it is slow. The feel I'm always looking for is a predictable loose.
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Old 08-23-2015, 02:12 PM   #8730
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hanulec View Post
Generally if a tc feels planted -- it is slow. The feel I'm always looking for is a predictable loose.
Agreed!
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