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Old 07-07-2015, 03:03 AM   #8536
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My first run with my new (to me) Awesomatix was on Sunday. I initially set up the car for a nice safe push, then worked my way toward neutral. I was giggling to myself that each adjustment took less than 30 seconds to make, and required no parts changes. Now I'm looking at my box full of coil springs, and my other box full of shock oil bottles, and am thinking "now there's a bunch of extraneous junk".

Once I got the handling close to where I want it, the shock/spring adjustments were very near the middle of their adjustment ranges. That shows some real thought went into the design!
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Old 07-07-2015, 02:11 PM   #8537
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Is it worth upgrading the shocks to 2.1? My Evo 2 came with D2's and I notice a bit of oil leaking after racing. I've rebuilt them and will see how they go.
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Old 07-07-2015, 02:46 PM   #8538
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2.1s definitely seem to hold oil better for me. I think hanulec tried different O rings for D2s, not sure how that worked out.
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Old 07-07-2015, 02:54 PM   #8539
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schwarta View Post
Is it worth upgrading the shocks to 2.1? My Evo 2 came with D2's and I notice a bit of oil leaking after racing. I've rebuilt them and will see how they go.
Congrats on your initial success. Cool to see you've had a similar experience as I've had with my Evo 2; it has been an A-Main winner since it touched the track.

Regarding the leaking dampers; The short answer is yes, the 2.1 upgrade definitely helps with the larger O-rings, but the O-rings are only part of the issue.

Longer answer: I still get a small amount of leakage through the bleeder set-screws, but I find them mostly unnecessary so I use Loctite to glue them shut. The biggest thing I would recommend is getting ahold of some Molykote 55 o-ring grease and soak your O-rings in it for at least 24 hours. This will expand the O-rings making a better seal while lubricating them.

Perhaps before you lay down money for the 2.1 upgrade, try rebuilding them with Molykote (if you can find it, Associated green slime works as well, but not nearly as good) and see if the oil seepage is acceptable for you. I have been trying to obtain perfection, and have gotten pretty darn close with my current rebuild method (which I posted, probably a few pages back now). After a few race days I don't have any buildup of road-grime near my dampers, and there isn't any excess oil in the surrounding area.
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Old 07-07-2015, 03:15 PM   #8540
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schwarta View Post
Is it worth upgrading the shocks to 2.1? My Evo 2 came with D2's and I notice a bit of oil leaking after racing. I've rebuilt them and will see how they go.
Ah- yes/no. I found some new orings and I will be rebuilding my 2.0 shocks after 1m this weekend... If they are better these new orings will be available for sale.
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Old 07-07-2015, 04:24 PM   #8541
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Hanulec will be posting the setup I have been running for the last couple weeks shortly in 13.5. I have been running the "Josh style" FFG with a cut tube and 2x AM49-3 to secure it. This combined with raised diffs F/R (shimmed up bulkheads) has given me a lot more grip and corner speed. We call our club racing the Parking Lot Nationals since we normally get 3-4 ROAR National champions running 13.5 every week, plus other general fast guys. While before I was generally even with the pack, since changing my car to this style setup I have definitely had edge of a tenth or 2. The results speak for themselves
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Old 07-07-2015, 04:29 PM   #8542
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folks are going to want to see a pic G
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Old 07-07-2015, 04:38 PM   #8543
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Interesting stuff Gee; I have been considering raising my bulkheads as well. How much did you shim them up?

Definitely interested in seeing some pictures or getting some more detail on this "Josh style" FFG.

Good job on the lap-times; clearly some domination happening there, 11.2 fast lap
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Old 07-07-2015, 05:06 PM   #8544
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Sheet posted at http://www.awesomatixusa.com/p/setup-sheets.html
July 5 2015 date
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Old 07-07-2015, 05:07 PM   #8545
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geeunit1014 View Post
Hanulec will be posting the setup I have been running for the last couple weeks shortly in 13.5. I have been running the "Josh style" FFG with a cut tube and 2x AM49-3 to secure it. This combined with raised diffs F/R (shimmed up bulkheads) has given me a lot more grip and corner speed. We call our club racing the Parking Lot Nationals since we normally get 3-4 ROAR National champions running 13.5 every week, plus other general fast guys. While before I was generally even with the pack, since changing my car to this style setup I have definitely had edge of a tenth or 2. The results speak for themselves
What is ""Josh style" FFG with a cut tube and 2x AM49-3 to secure it."? Is this explained somewhere else?

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Old 07-07-2015, 05:07 PM   #8546
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Front bulkhead is +1mm, rear is +2mm. You will need to add 2mm to the shims that connect the motor mount to the rear bulkhead to keep the motor mount in the correct spot.
pic of ffg setup
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Old 07-07-2015, 05:09 PM   #8547
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geeunit1014 View Post
Front bulkhead is +1mm, rear is +2mm. You will need to add 2mm to the shims that connect the motor mount to the rear bulkhead to keep the motor mount in the correct spot.
pic of ffg setup
SWEET! Thanks, I see it now.

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Old 07-07-2015, 05:19 PM   #8548
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Josh tried some new/old ideas at the Reedy race.. And that has inspired folks to try things. We can say that this seems to work on asphalt. Carpet TBD.

Josh at Reedy just freed the FFG. He didn't shim bulkheads. Folks started with 2mm front/rear shimmed but lowering the front has helped.
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Old 07-07-2015, 05:42 PM   #8549
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Thanks for the info Mike, and Mike. Looking forward to trying out these roll center changes this weekend.
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Old 07-07-2015, 06:19 PM   #8550
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If you try this.. It is super important that the ffg is free. Worst case shim the am49 higher slightly.

You'll find big rear end traction and will need to adjust setups accordingly
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