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Old 06-29-2015, 02:28 PM   #8521
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Hi guys
The blog is mine and I was there and posted the photos.
Oleg has a clear vision on what to do now with the car to improve and catch up with the competition who seem to have improved and opened the gap, at least in open mod class.
Not much else can be said now.
Expect some news in the future from Awesomatix.
JD,

Loved the pictures and the videos on your blog, this is why I posted the link for everyone else to see. Keep up the good work...look forward to reading more.

Patrick
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Old 06-30-2015, 07:09 PM   #8522
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Bump after rctech drama
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Old 07-01-2015, 02:55 PM   #8523
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Just trying to setup my car, is it possible to use the inside holes on the steering arm? I tried mounting them there and I couldn't get the turnbuckles short enough to have even straight wheels and the steering also seemed to be knocking on the ffg rod when turning right?
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Old 07-01-2015, 03:01 PM   #8524
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Just trying to setup my car, is it possible to use the inside holes on the steering arm? I tried mounting them there and I couldn't get the turnbuckles short enough to have even straight wheels and the steering also seemed to be knocking on the ffg rod when turning right?
It should be possible. It might help to grease the threads on the turnbuckle so its not so tight. Although most setups lately seem to use the outside hole.
if the link from the servo to the rack is hitting the driveshaft, you need to adjust the shims on that link, or possibly need a taller servo horn depending on what you are using
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Old 07-01-2015, 03:25 PM   #8525
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Originally Posted by Schwarta View Post
Just trying to setup my car, is it possible to use the inside holes on the steering arm? I tried mounting them there and I couldn't get the turnbuckles short enough to have even straight wheels and the steering also seemed to be knocking on the ffg rod when turning right?
I use the inside holes, and have run into both of these problems. As Mike pointed out, greasing the threads with black grease (Tuning Haus or AE works well) helps immensely when making adjustments. I also fully thread the turnbuckle into the end and out several times to loosen it up further. I do this to all links in the car.

To be able to have some toe-out shave about 1-2mm from the ball ends (I use P13-4) to allow shorter links. The holes are deep enough to not interfere with the ball cup. I'm assuming you are already using the AT14 (or Lunsford) short links, or else I would imagine it would be really far off.

Regarding the steering link; As Mike also pointed out, make sure you shim the ball in the steering-rack high enough to get over the drive shaft while full lock right. I also shave the bottom of that ball end on the bottom to give it more room between the drive shaft, and on the top to make sure it doesn't catch on the AM46 (shimming the steering-rack ball up too high can make you hit the AM46 depending on what ball ends you're using).

edit: One other thing; I still use the stock P40 because I have yet to find an aluminum horn that has the perfect dimensions the P40 has to get over the shaft, while staying under the AM46, and not sticking too far out from the servo so the angle to the rack is proper. So, if you're having issues with an aftermarket horn, try the stock one out to see if it helps any.
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Last edited by WesRaven; 07-01-2015 at 03:40 PM.
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Old 07-01-2015, 04:34 PM   #8526
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geeunit1014
It should be possible. It might help to grease the threads on the turnbuckle so its not so tight. Although most setups lately seem to use the outside hole.
if the link from the servo to the rack is hitting the driveshaft, you need to adjust the shims on that link, or possibly need a taller servo horn depending on what you are using
Thanks Mike, the turnbuckles are easy to turn, I just think they might be too long, like Wes suggested.

I've just gotten the p40 servo horn, so I'll check out what's hitting where and shave some material off.


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Originally Posted by WesRaven View Post
I use the inside holes, and have run into both of these problems. As Mike pointed out, greasing the threads with black grease (Tuning Haus or AE works well) helps immensely when making adjustments. I also fully thread the turnbuckle into the end and out several times to loosen it up further. I do this to all links in the car.

To be able to have some toe-out shave about 1-2mm from the ball ends (I use P13-4) to allow shorter links. The holes are deep enough to not interfere with the ball cup. I'm assuming you are already using the AT14 (or Lunsford) short links, or else I would imagine it would be really far off.

Regarding the steering link; As Mike also pointed out, make sure you shim the ball in the steering-rack high enough to get over the drive shaft while full lock right. I also shave the bottom of that ball end on the bottom to give it more room between the drive shaft, and on the top to make sure it doesn't catch on the AM46 (shimming the steering-rack ball up too high can make you hit the AM46 depending on what ball ends you're using).

edit: One other thing; I still use the stock P40 because I have yet to find an aluminum horn that has the perfect dimensions the P40 has to get over the shaft, while staying under the AM46, and not sticking too far out from the servo so the angle to the rack is proper. So, if you're having issues with an aftermarket horn, try the stock one out to see if it helps any.
Thanks Wes, I've got titanium turnbuckles, but I think they're probably too long. As it is really off, all the way in is still toe in. I've got the original spares so will do up a shorter pair.
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Old 07-01-2015, 04:55 PM   #8527
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Originally Posted by Schwarta View Post
Thanks Wes, I've got titanium turnbuckles, but I think they're probably too long. As it is really off, all the way in is still toe in. I've got the original spares so will do up a shorter pair.
If they are the Lunsford, you can tell the difference between the long and the short if the threads go all the way up to the square key (short) or if there is a smooth round section before (long). For reference:

Short links

Long links
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Old 07-01-2015, 05:03 PM   #8528
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WesRaven View Post
If they are the Lunsford, you can tell the difference between the long and the short if the threads go all the way up to the square key (short) or if there is a smooth round section before (long). For reference:

Short links

Long links
Thanks. I'll have a look when I get home from work.
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Old 07-01-2015, 06:15 PM   #8529
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Wow.... Play can be reduced to zero in the A700ex... That's a huge advantage...
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Old 07-02-2015, 03:02 AM   #8530
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On the setup sheets is downstop the droop measurement? If so, how is the measurement done for the setting 2mm over ride height?
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Old 07-02-2015, 03:41 AM   #8531
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On the setup sheets is downstop the droop measurement? If so, how is the measurement done for the setting 2mm over ride height?
The technique is shown in the manual towards the back. Some folks will write "orh" on their droop settings -- and these are done in the over ride height method instead of what is shown in the manual.
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Old 07-02-2015, 11:10 AM   #8532
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One thing I want to point out that cleared up a lot of confusion for me; Droop and downstop are different measurements, but downstop will impact droop. People at the track seem to throw these terms around as the same thing, which confused me for a while.

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but this is a summary of what I've gathered. Downstop is simply a static setting that shows how far your suspension is allowed to go down completely with no weight on it. It's measured from the bottom of the chassis to how far your axles (or suspension arms, wherever your point of reference is) go above the chassis. Droop is this amount of suspension travel you have from normal ride height (at your full race weight) to the point where your wheels lift off the ground. So, if you're running 2mm of droop, you would be able to raise your chassis 2mm before the wheels start coming off the ground. Droop is impacted by other factors like your spring preload and weight, which is why it cannot be measured by downstop alone.

Again, if I got any of that wrong, someone please correct me, because I'd like to make sure I'm properly setting up my car too.
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Old 07-02-2015, 01:52 PM   #8533
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I would say you are correct, but I would also say most people use them as interchangeable words. Personally i only measure droop over ride height, and not downstops on blocks, since there are so many things that can affect droop. It's just easier for me to keep track of droop over ride height when changing things, since that is the value that ultimately will affect handling.
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Old 07-02-2015, 05:53 PM   #8534
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Originally Posted by geeunit1014 View Post
I would say you are correct, but I would also say most people use them as interchangeable words. Personally i only measure droop over ride height, and not downstops on blocks, since there are so many things that can affect droop. It's just easier for me to keep track of droop over ride height when changing things, since that is the value that ultimately will affect handling.
Thanks Mike. Makes sense, just always used the downstop method.
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Old 07-06-2015, 05:37 PM   #8535
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Had my first run with the car on the weekend. Started with basically Wes' setup a few pages back. Made a few changes through the night, had a few issues during qualifying, so didn't qualify well but the speed was definitely there, but convincingly won my finals.

Fastest lap was already faster than what I had done with my Mi5 Evo.
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