tbamsey

iTrader: (1)

I picked up a used kit and found a few parts needing replacing also noticed the car has 3 r6 dampers and a L6 oddly enough the L6 was on the front right(location not correct) side of car. Couldn't find a replacement on the awesomatix web site are the rebuildable ones the only ones available.

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

The new ones (d2.1) are the only ones being made. Anything else is just left over inventory.

This configuration is fine if you stick with symmetrical dampening. The Reedy race crew found the new shocks to help a ton in the heat and bumps at the track...

tbamsey

iTrader: (1)

I am returning my used a700 to all awesomatix parts had aftermarket ball cups and ball studs and few other weird things. Made a nice parts order what is the difference between st-03 and st-24, I can not see the difference between them

Is droop not that big of tuning option in this car compared to the tc 6.2 seems like i am running 1/3rd the droop compared to my other cars and running faster with the awesomatix

S.Stew

iTrader: (13)

I'd say droop is equally as important to the Awesomatix cars as it is with other touring cars. Many guys run around 2mm over ride height, which is also a common setting with other platforms. I tend to like a little more droop overall. When measured on droop blocks, I like between 4-5mm (measured at the end of the arm).

geeunit1014

iTrader: (14)

ST03 have a different ball size than st24. St03 are for the top and bottom of the am06s, and the st24 are for everything else.

Droop is always a big tuning option. Not every car is going to use the same amouny of droop. I also generally run less droop than i used to on other cars, but you can really change the way the car feels with droop.

WesRaven

I'm trying to measure my droop in a more "standard" way so that I can more easily compare my settings to others, and I see this method mentioned often. How tall are the droop blocks that are typically used for this?

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

Blocks are 10mm
U can measure without blocks too.. Just off the setup board when wheels are off.

WesRaven

Thanks hanulec; I figured it was 10, but wanted to confirm before I buy (I discovered at Reedy I need some for teching my car anyway).

I usually use the setup board method you mentioned, just want to be savvy with all of the different methods.

S.Stew

iTrader: (13)

Yep, its really easy to do it this way with the AMX actually. Most times I lay the car on my board and just use a ride height gauge and measure to the end of the arm. This should provide the same result as using blocks, as the block/gauge sets "0" mark is always the same as the block height.

WesRaven

A question and a comment regarding the new 2.x dampers...

Question: Does anyone know what the difference is between the AT42 and AT42-1 damper cases? I recently upgraded my 2.0 dampers to 2.1, but still using the AT42 cases that came with my Evo 2. They seem to work just fine, just curious if there are any differences.


Comment: After a lot of rebuilding and battling, I finally have completely leak/seep free dampers. I realized the excess oil was not coming from the O-rings, but actually from the bleeder set screw that goes down the middle of the AT41-1. Just to see if I was correct in this, I installed the set screw with thread locker ahead of time, let it set, then filled the rest of the cavity in the AT41-1 with Dow 55 so that it wouldn't capture any air as I put it into the AT42 case. I overfill the case with oil and let the excess oil/air push through the main shaft hole of the AT40-1 before installing the OR155 and bearing. I pack some Dow 55 around the OR155 as I install it as well.

The result is a solid weekend of racing without any built-up gunk around my damper shafts. Sometimes they would seep oil so much my springs would be wet with shock oil after several runs. Thread locker in both bleeder screws on my GD2 also stopped my minor leaks there as well.

Hopefully this can help anyone else that may still have seepage issues.


Edit: Sorry, one more question. I just ordered a new drive shaft (AT04-2) just to have an extra on hand. I noticed the description says you cannot use the bearing support (AM48). I didn't have the updated manual when I built my Evo 2, and the supplemental manual shows the standard AT04, so I have been running the bearing support this whole time. Is there a downside to running the bearings with the thicker shaft? Why was the bearing support needed for the older shaft and not the new one? I already ordered another AM50 to replace the AM48, mainly just curious because I love learning everything I can about this car.

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

AT42-1 -- only Oleg knows

AT04-2 -- doesn't need bearings, it won't wobble. a smaller spec bearing would be needed for it to do anything. i didn't put AT50 on my cars, i just spun my AT48 w/ bearings still on out of the way.

WesRaven

So the bearings were to keep the shaft from wobbling; I thought they were to put tension on the shaft to keep it from popping out. Thanks for clearing this up for me hanulec. One less thing to adjust and maintain, YAY

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

If u run a top deck you can remove the am49/48/50 all together

joech

iTrader: (40)

It is mainly a tuning/setup options to either running a top deck or AM48/49/50 together?

Thanks

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

If you run a top deck it takes the center post (am49) out of the setup equation.
Generally the car has more corner speed with top deck installed.