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Old 03-03-2015, 11:12 PM   #8146
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Hi all,
I want to update my evo to the latest version. Am i missing anything from this list?

D2-S
MM2
AM33-5
AM49-3
AT03M-S
C01AL-S2

I think the only thing missing are the strong carbon arms but do they make a huge difference to handling?

I've already got the other parts like GD2 and AM24.

Thanks in advance!
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Old 03-04-2015, 05:13 AM   #8147
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Originally Posted by Bgilli26 View Post
Has anybody tried the new motor mount on the soft raceberry chassis? I am curious to hear others opinions. I know I'd either have to dremel the chassis or not use all the flex options. I have the template so I wouldn't mind dremeling it out, but only if it would be beneficial..
The only person who I *think* might have is Jake D. I don't have any feedback.

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Originally Posted by area52 View Post
Fellow A700 EvoII drivers,

is there any change to get hold of the "default link length" values that work with the A700 EvoII/IIC kit? The settings mentioned in the standard A700 manual of course don't work anymore with the new ballcups etc. I do have a setup station but I cannot adjust the castor angles properly due to not having the dongles. Any chance someone can shoot me over the some basic setup?

The length of the exposed part of the turnbuckles would do best.

Muchas gracias!

Sebastian
Sebastian - there are SO MANY variables here -- you really just need to get to a place were you can measure camber and caster. Before caster doodles we just eyeballed the caster.

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Originally Posted by poop View Post
Hi all,
I want to update my evo to the latest version. Am i missing anything from this list?

D2-S
MM2
AM33-5
AM49-3
AT03M-S
C01AL-S2

I think the only thing missing are the strong carbon arms but do they make a huge difference to handling?

I've already got the other parts like GD2 and AM24.

Thanks in advance!
c04m (or c04al) are necessary for the C01AL-S2 otherwise the c04 arms will hit the P12 sway bar mounts. this can be overcome with a little dremel work.
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Old 03-04-2015, 05:23 AM   #8148
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Quote:
Originally Posted by area52 View Post
Fellow A700 EvoII drivers,

is there any change to get hold of the "default link length" values that work with the A700 EvoII/IIC kit? The settings mentioned in the standard A700 manual of course don't work anymore with the new ballcups etc. I do have a setup station but I cannot adjust the castor angles properly due to not having the dongles. Any chance someone can shoot me over the some basic setup?

The length of the exposed part of the turnbuckles would do best.

Muchas gracias!

Sebastian
If you replace the outer upper screw on the c hub with a spare ball stud you can stick a wrench in the end of the ball stud to get a line across your setup tools caster guage. That will be fairly accurate until you get a doodle.
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Old 03-04-2015, 05:38 AM   #8149
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hanulec View Post
Sebastian - there are SO MANY variables here -- you really just need to get to a place were you can measure camber and caster. Before caster doodles we just eyeballed the caster.
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Originally Posted by ammdrew View Post
If you replace the outer upper screw on the c hub with a spare ball stud you can stick a wrench in the end of the ball stud to get a line across your setup tools caster guage.
Guys, thanks a bunch for the answers. I sat down last night with the setup system and started to set the camber and toe angles. At the end – when I calculated the castor angles as per manual – I ended up with a tad more than 5 degree up front and slightly less than -5 degree on the rear, so not too far off from what I'd like to achieve (4/-4).

Will give the spare-ballstud-and-wrench idea a try tonight.

Seb
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Old 03-04-2015, 07:11 AM   #8150
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Originally Posted by area52 View Post
Guys, thanks a bunch for the answers. I sat down last night with the setup system and started to set the camber and toe angles. At the end – when I calculated the castor angles as per manual – I ended up with a tad more than 5 degree up front and slightly less than -5 degree on the rear, so not too far off from what I'd like to achieve (4/-4).

Will give the spare-ballstud-and-wrench idea a try tonight.

Seb
Another option is to thread a spare turnbuckle into the outer hole on the hub. It will act as a pointer to the caster scale on your setup system. It's not perfect but should work in a pinch!
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Old 03-04-2015, 10:32 AM   #8151
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I'm setting up a car for carpet, med traction, a little bumpy in the infield. Traction does go up slightly during the mains. I was thinking about using the AT21S for front and rear for the initial setup or should I stick with the AT21 and give that a go first time out?

Past experience with other cars, I tend to like lower roll center at this particular track.
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Old 03-04-2015, 10:55 AM   #8152
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Originally Posted by b20btec View Post
I'm setting up a car for carpet, med traction, a little bumpy in the infield. Traction does go up slightly during the mains. I was thinking about using the AT21S for front and rear for the initial setup or should I stick with the AT21 and give that a go first time out?

Past experience with other cars, I tend to like lower roll center at this particular track.
If I have the optional at21S in hand I always use them for a build then add .5mm or more shims if desired. I suppose the only drawback is the hex faces are narrower on at21S by .5mm , but with a good wrench the hex's have never stripped on me. My opinion is , use at21S if you have them ! Then shim to taste!

Jake D.
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Old 03-04-2015, 11:21 AM   #8153
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I just finished building my new Evo 2. It looks like kits are now coming with ST24 ball studs and short links. Anyone have a recommended starting point for how much I should shim the ST24?

I'm going to be running on a med-high traction outdoor asphalt track this weekend, and since the manual only covers the AT21 and long links my initial settings are just guess-work.

edit:
Also, can anyone share their experience/comments on the different flex modes of the MM2? I'm currently at mode 3, but have very little idea of how this impacts the handling of the car, so I'm not sure when I would want to change it.

Last edited by WesRaven; 03-04-2015 at 11:36 AM.
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Old 03-04-2015, 12:28 PM   #8154
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Wes-

St24 require 0.5 to 0.7mm of more shim than prior balls. I'd recommend looking at prior asphalt setups (for specific tires) and adjusting accordingly.

Some FL and CA boys will be running those new shocks outdoors soon (or have already) and can chime in on oil/damper settings.

As for MM2- I've only run mode 1 myself. Others are running mode 3. Haven't tested these back to back yet..
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Old 03-04-2015, 01:52 PM   #8155
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Starting to get our heads around the evo II's Whole new thought process on some tuning and same on others.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BvAbkI33Xu8
qualled second finished second. Car was really good early in the day and went the wrong way late getting her just a bit too pushy in the main. But all in all pretty good. Still hunting for that base setup that lets us start out good and fine tune. Seems a lot of the setups are very very different from each other. Kind of branching off Mike Gee's Snowbirds setup as that was a best base drive we found for our track/ style of drive.
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Old 03-04-2015, 02:02 PM   #8156
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If I have the optional at21S in hand I always use them for a build then add .5mm or more shims if desired. I suppose the only drawback is the hex faces are narrower on at21S by .5mm , but with a good wrench the hex's have never stripped on me. My opinion is , use at21S if you have them ! Then shim to taste!

Jake D.
I suppose the only way to know is to try. What I like about the AT21S is that you can add to it. AT21 you're at a higher roll center from the start, if you need to lower your roll it would have to be from the upper links which is minimal compared to lower arms. I am worried about stripping the AT21S, may need to invest on a really nice wrench. Thanks for the input.
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Old 03-04-2015, 02:16 PM   #8157
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I suppose the only way to know is to try. What I like about the AT21S is that you can add to it. AT21 you're at a higher roll center from the start, if you need to lower your roll it would have to be from the upper links which is minimal compared to lower arms. I am worried about stripping the AT21S, may need to invest on a really nice wrench. Thanks for the input.
no need for a nice wrench for at21s. just scuff up the bottom of the balls so it "digs" into the chassis.

i always tighten at21/at21s on the chassis once they are installed in the p03/c04/p07 complex -- i take them off in one unit. was easier that way when wrenching on the car at the track....
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Old 03-04-2015, 02:39 PM   #8158
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Originally Posted by hanulec View Post
no need for a nice wrench for at21s. just scuff up the bottom of the balls so it "digs" into the chassis.

i always tighten at21/at21s on the chassis once they are installed in the p03/c04/p07 complex -- i take them off in one unit. was easier that way when wrenching on the car at the track....
Hanulec is right on ( as he usual is ). I don't even "scuff up" At21/At21S and I haven't used a wrench in a long time because the chassis usually causes enough friction. Sometimes I'll need to add a little bit of finger pressure on p03 until it starts to tighten. To further ensure the screws stay tight I'll try scuffing from now on. Good tip. Thanks. I only mentioned the hex wrench because some people like to tighten things more than I do.
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Old 03-04-2015, 04:54 PM   #8159
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Does anyone know of a tuning guide for the Evo? I am looking for something I can bring to the track. Thanks
I'd love to have something like this as well. Even when just considering the basic stuff, there's simply too much to remember (for me at least).

Fortunately for the most part suspension geometry doesn't really change, and the same concepts can be applied to all cars. I still reference my old TC3 tuning guide at the track and find it helpful to remind me of the fundamentals.

For more in-depth understanding I have been reading this site a lot and found it extremely helpful: http://users.telenet.be/elvo/

-Wes
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Old 03-04-2015, 05:16 PM   #8160
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Originally Posted by hanulec View Post
no need for a nice wrench for at21s. just scuff up the bottom of the balls so it "digs" into the chassis.

i always tighten at21/at21s on the chassis once they are installed in the p03/c04/p07 complex -- i take them off in one unit. was easier that way when wrenching on the car at the track....

Makes sense, thanks for the tip.
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