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Old 02-17-2015, 10:55 AM   #8071
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Hi guys,

questions about parts: can you please tell me the difference between the new version of these parts:

- AM05-2 vs AM05-1 rear holder
- AM11-2 vs AM11 tower (I assume that it is useless on an Evo 2 with aluminium chassis and AT04-2 center shaft?)
- AM23-1 vs AM23 rear steering arms
- AM19-2 vs AM19 upper arm holders
- AM42-3 vs AM42-1 FFG links holder front
- AM54-3 vs AM54-1 FFG links holder rear

Thanks in advance,
G-rem
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Old 02-17-2015, 03:21 PM   #8072
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does the am46 screw sc2x6 needs to be tighten or not?
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Old 02-17-2015, 03:48 PM   #8073
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does the am46 screw sc2x6 needs to be tighten or not?
Yes, same as AM48, AM50, AM40: SC2x6 should be tighten to prevent any shift of these parts along and around AT31 rod.
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Old 02-17-2015, 05:01 PM   #8074
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Yes, same as AM48, AM50, AM40: SC2x6 should be tighten to prevent any shift of these parts along and around AT31 rod.
Thanks, oleg!
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Old 02-18-2015, 10:07 AM   #8075
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Has anyone started to experiment with custom drilled vanes and thicker oil for the new D2 dampers? Curious to find out what anyone has learned.

I'm considering going that direction - say, 10K oil and more/larger holes in the vane. Already growing weary of having to disassemble half the car in order to top off these new dampers every week or so, as the 500-650 cst oils seem to escape from these units at an astounding rate. No exaggeration, maintenance time between club race weekends has literally doubled. Ugh.

... and don't even think about telling me I'm doing something wrong. It's just the nature of thin oil and o-rings!
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Old 02-18-2015, 10:45 AM   #8076
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G-rem View Post
Hi guys,

questions about parts: can you please tell me the difference between the new version of these parts:

- AM05-2 vs AM05-1 rear holder
- AM11-2 vs AM11 tower (I assume that it is useless on an Evo 2 with aluminium chassis and AT04-2 center shaft?)
- AM23-1 vs AM23 rear steering arms
- AM19-2 vs AM19 upper arm holders
- AM42-3 vs AM42-1 FFG links holder front
- AM54-3 vs AM54-1 FFG links holder rear

Thanks in advance,
G-rem
Hi G-rem,

AM05-2 is now 2,5mm (0,5mm more thickness than AM05-1) which will be more stable.
AM11-2 is the Middle Tower for new A700L2 car same for C02-2 Topdeck.
AM23-1 is updated version with only 1 hole (same hole which used everytime) and this hole is 1mm more forward.
AM42-3/AM54-3 offers new Holes for the Upper links which are a bit longer at short position than before.
AM19-2 is also updated version with new Holes for Upper links and will offer to have now same Link length in combination with AM42-3/AM54-3 in front and rear.

Before with AM19 and AM42-X/AM54-X the link positions from front suspension and rear suspension were a bit different.
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Old 02-18-2015, 11:00 AM   #8077
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stogie View Post
Has anyone started to experiment with custom drilled vanes and thicker oil for the new D2 dampers? Curious to find out what anyone has learned.

I'm considering going that direction - say, 10K oil and more/larger holes in the vane. Already growing weary of having to disassemble half the car in order to top off these new dampers every week or so, as the 500-650 cst oils seem to escape from these units at an astounding rate. No exaggeration, maintenance time between club race weekends has literally doubled. Ugh.

... and don't even think about telling me I'm doing something wrong. It's just the nature of thin oil and o-rings!
Hi Stogie,

we tested before release with different diameters from the vanes , different holes and also with custom made vanes which worked like asymmetric.

We decided to use the Vanes with one 0,9mm hole in each blade with 500cst oil as Std. In germany we use now most time 650cst for rebuilding the dampers for Carpet races so far. We will test soon for Asphalt tracks also.

In test phase we used also vanes with four holes in each blade with 3k and 5k oil. This was good also but laptimes and consistenc was better with softer Oil dampers.
Also the asymmetric tests were ok, but for most tracks the std. vanes are best solution

TIP: When you rebuild the dampers use some Asso Green Slime for the OR15 O-Ring. It will prevent leaking to much ;-)
I usually only rebuild my dampers for bigger races or every 2 weeks.
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Old 02-18-2015, 12:48 PM   #8078
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Thank you very much Max for your detailed answer, let's do some shopping
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Old 02-18-2015, 01:40 PM   #8079
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I raced the car this past weekend with the changes I had talked about, the car was better, but not dramatically. Car is well balanced, only real complaint would be it tends to over rotate on corner exit still, not getting loose, but more of too much steering from apex out.

I still felt the car could be quicker and carry more speed in the corners, like it is lacking some mechanical grip.

To see if the chassis could handle more grip with out traction rolling, I switched from 32deg tires to 28deg tires. Car was instantly more planted and quicker, picked up a full lap in the main over my TQ.( both sets of tires were Sorex, and both had about the same runs on them)

So, my quest is to get the same mechanical grip I had with the 28's, but with the 32's. ( we have a spec. 32 rule in our club, I was racing at a different club this weekend)

How do I achieve this? Start raising the roll centers?( they are quite low) more camber gain? (running long links in front, and short in rear)
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Old 02-18-2015, 01:55 PM   #8080
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I have now had 2 springsblade there has been bended. I can't figur out why. Any surggestion on where I shall look for the cause ?
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Old 02-18-2015, 04:15 PM   #8081
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Quote:
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I have now had 2 springsblade there has been bended. I can't figur out why. Any surggestion on where I shall look for the cause ?
It happens when the car crashes and the arms raise to high.

You should use the up travel screws in the sway bar mounts to limit the up travel to 16mm when the chassis is flat on the ground.

Hope that makes sense .
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Old 02-19-2015, 12:03 AM   #8082
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Earl- your mechanical grip difference (28 vs 32) had nothing to do with your oversteer on exit.

If your not traction rolling, try raising your lower arms up 1.0 to 1.5mm. This will probably give you the feeling of traction you are looking for.

Your on exit rotation can probably be fixed by less diff oil or less shims under the rear toe drag link.
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Old 02-19-2015, 04:39 AM   #8083
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gtr r34 m-spec View Post
It happens when the car crashes and the arms raise to high.

You should use the up travel screws in the sway bar mounts to limit the up travel to 16mm when the chassis is flat on the ground.

Hope that makes sense .
ahh, now I know what these empty holes are for. So, measurering from the flat ground up to the bottom of the up travel screw, the wishbone must only travel 16mm. Is this correct understood ?
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Old 02-19-2015, 06:25 PM   #8084
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Thats a very nice car
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Old 02-19-2015, 06:54 PM   #8085
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hanulec View Post
Earl- your mechanical grip difference (28 vs 32) had nothing to do with your oversteer on exit.

If your not traction rolling, try raising your lower arms up 1.0 to 1.5mm. This will probably give you the feeling of traction you are looking for.

Your on exit rotation can probably be fixed by less diff oil or less shims under the rear toe drag link.
Mike,

Yes, I wasn't thinking the two were related per say, as the oversteer was still there with the 28's.

Going to raise the lower arms as suggested, this will pretty much put me at Jake's set-up, so will just put his on verbatim and see how I like it.

It may solve my oversteer issue as well, but it may be just me...I don't have much time to work on the car at our club races due to me running them.

Thanks for all the help.
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