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Old 02-13-2015, 11:41 AM   #8041
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FFG dampening ? Take a pic to show us 😉
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Old 02-13-2015, 12:44 PM   #8042
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Originally Posted by johnsonthai View Post
want to say....this car is AWESOME!!! had the car for 6 months.. had the chance to race it at our 2015 Roar Region carpet... at TQ race way.... this past weekend...i ran super stock 13.5... took Tq and 1st overall in the tripe Amains..love this car!!!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tBKt-N064TI ......A2
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eoDcdf0XZa8 ....A3
what bodies shell were you running in SS?
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Old 02-13-2015, 01:11 PM   #8043
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FFG dampening ? Take a pic to show us ��
Its to stop FFG from moving in excess. I saw something similar at snowbirds. I was told if you have the bearing or FFG1.1 you don't need it. If you have the plastic tab then this helps. The body posts are overdoing it imo
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Old 02-13-2015, 02:26 PM   #8044
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what bodies shell were you running in SS?

Lw Mazda6
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Old 02-13-2015, 03:50 PM   #8045
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I would like to flip my dampers and run asymmetric for a bumpy track, just wanted to confirm the proper location for this.

LF=R6
RF=L6
LR=L6
RR=R6

Correct?
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Old 02-13-2015, 03:56 PM   #8046
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Originally Posted by SLOWINSLOWOUT View Post
I would like to flip my dampers and run asymmetric for a bumpy track, just wanted to confirm the proper location for this.

LF=R6
RF=L6
LR=L6
RR=R6

Correct?
for asymmetric that is right. you do the opposite for reverse asymmetric
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Old 02-13-2015, 05:14 PM   #8047
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for asymmetric that is right. you do the opposite for reverse asymmetric
Thanks, I did figure it out, I could not remember how it was as per the manual, then I looked at the manual, LOL.
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Old 02-13-2015, 05:32 PM   #8048
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Thanks, I did figure it out, I could not remember how it was as per the manual, then I looked at the manual, LOL.
and for asym you must install set screws .... just as the manual says . its easier to do that when the shocks are out of the car. otherwise you might have to loosen up the arm near the end of the chassis.
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Old 02-13-2015, 06:40 PM   #8049
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and for asym you must install set screws .... just as the manual says . its easier to do that when the shocks are out of the car. otherwise you might have to loosen up the arm near the end of the chassis.
Done and done.

I'm going to try a hybrid set-up, a combo of Jake's and Josh's. Been pretty much running Josh's set-up on my L, works really well, car is fast, carries great corner speed, but is a bit unpredictable on a bumpy track. Plus, our traction levels are mid at best, so firmed up the suspension as per Jake's set-up, with reverse asym. See how it goes.
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Old 02-13-2015, 10:54 PM   #8050
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Originally Posted by SLOWINSLOWOUT View Post
Done and done.

I'm going to try a hybrid set-up, a combo of Jake's and Josh's. Been pretty much running Josh's set-up on my L, works really well, car is fast, carries great corner speed, but is a bit unpredictable on a bumpy track. Plus, our traction levels are mid at best, so firmed up the suspension as per Jake's set-up, with reverse asym. See how it goes.
Try using significantly less static camber than what my setup says. Generally, I think I've been using too much. Also (rear) bump toe can be evil on bumpy tracks if you over use it.

Jake
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Old 02-14-2015, 07:49 AM   #8051
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Try using significantly less static camber than what my setup says. Generally, I think I've been using too much. Also (rear) bump toe can be evil on bumpy tracks if you over use it.

Jake
Thanks for the advice Jake.

I have also found rear bump toe to be evil for me, I don't like how it causes the car to rotate on corner exit on power, I tend to do better with a car that has a bit of on power push from the apex out.

Will try running less camber as well, see how that reacts.

For the most part, the car is fantastic, I can keep it on pace with the fast guys at club races, and some of these guys were in the A with you at Victoria. Just gotta figure out why I suck soooo much when I go to the big races, LOL.
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Old 02-14-2015, 09:02 AM   #8052
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Is there any tips to prevent diff oil from leaking through the hole inside the outdrive cups?


Thank you.
I've found 2 things that help with diff leaking -

1. Replace the stock o-rings with some silicone P4 o-rings. I use the Kyosho P4 silicone o-rings sold at A main hobbies, but I think any P4 silicone will work.

2. Use blue loctite on the two set screws that screw into each ST31 part.
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Old 02-14-2015, 05:43 PM   #8053
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whats the difference between short and long linkage. the big problem is how to set it for long and short. need help pls.
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Old 02-14-2015, 06:02 PM   #8054
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whats the difference between short and long linkage. the big problem is how to set it for long and short. need help pls.
If you are talking about camber links, the kit turnbuckles are for long links, and you need optional ones for short liklinks. I like the lunsford 1-1/8 inch long ones awesomatix usa sells
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Old 02-14-2015, 06:24 PM   #8055
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Originally Posted by geeunit1014 View Post
If you are talking about camber links, the kit turnbuckles are for long links, and you need optional ones for short liklinks. I like the lunsford 1-1/8 inch long ones awesomatix usa sells
are there any difference?
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