95lscoupe

iTrader: (10)

Yes awesomatix does make a wrench for the nut. I put a hex wrench in one of the extra holes in the spur gear to lock it and give It a good tightening. Just don't tighten too much you can egg or break your spur gear. Since doing this I haven't had the spur nut back off.

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

Thanks... I'll try to buy a wrench soon..... I think I used a set of plyiers on mine...

KHoff7

iTrader: (5)

I appreciate the information.

dragonracing

iTrader: (7)

i ended up using a hex wrench to get it tight. i did not before so thats why it backed off. this weekend is the cascade asphalt series race #1 s i want to make sure the car is perfect.

Magnet Top

iTrader: (4)

Have you increased your rear downstop ( smaller value ) to allow more weight transfer to the front off power ?

Because 21.5 is a class that really is about maintaining speed I realize you don't want to get into the brakes much at all. To gain a bit on entry, as it goes to drag brake your car may enjoy some pro dive to cause a bit more front weight transfer under slight auto/drag brake. This shouldn't affect your exit on power hook issue. You might even be able to use your front sway bar again to get rid of the exit on power oversteer ?

So basically to add a bit of pro-dive, just add a .5 shim to the front -front most lower a-arm ball studs ( also raises your RC a little ) or take .5mm away from the rear of the front ball studs ( if you want to lower your front RC simultaneously ).

Or just adjust your downstop, if you haven't, . A little more droop , front and rear could do the job...

Jake D.

dragonracing

iTrader: (7)

thanks jake. ill take a look at my car and might try those adjustments this sat weather permitting. some of it also i think is that corner (you know the one at the end of the straight) i need to work on my entry a little more. its was better after i added the outer pipe so one can judge distance a little better at that side of the track. but i will try those adjustment you mentioned.

Monti

iTrader: (44)

Jake has made some valid recommendations. If you can locate the pro compound tires they will give you more grip over all and are faster than the d compound. What are you using for traction compound? Every form of r/c depends on tires so if you can start with that it will be a huge benefit. While a gear diff may help in the front I would at least run the front 1.0 bar and consider the following:

More front camber
More front caster (no more than 6 degrees)
Less rear tow (two should be min)
Lighter gear diff oil with only two gears
Metal gears in the diff

I have run a front gear diff over and over on asphalt and carpet and it just depends on the day if I like it or it's faster. Not a bad tool to have in the box but not really a first pick of mine.

My normal check list is as follows when making adjustments;
Tires
Tires prep
Body
Rear toe
Sway bars
Gear diffs
Front camber
Droop
Dampening/spring rate

I'm sure other have their order but this has worked best for me.

Monti

dragonracing

iTrader: (7)

we are restricted to d compound tires only. i am however going to try a set of x patterns in a practice session to see if those help. mostly i think i need to adjust my driving line a little. but i am going to try the diff first.

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

Please try a lighter diff fluid (1k) and add some more rear droop.

Awesoman

Hi guys,
after about a month of use in modified asphalt racing, I noticed that my alu chassis plate isn't totally flat any more. The left and right sides are about 0,2mm higher than the center of the chassis, where the stiffener is mounted.
Is this normal?

JayL

is the new ball stud ST24L supposed to be threaded all the way up? Mine are not

MDawson

iTrader: (27)

FJ & Co -

Remember there was a post that measure out the TOP Ballends vs. standard pivot vs. short pivot ends.

Anyone have the measurements?

dragonracing

iTrader: (7)

will try lighter diff fluid in rear. my droop is 2.5mm to 3mm over ride height allready. is that going to be too much adding more? like 3.5-4mm? im at a 6mm ride height right now in the rear.

here is the setup but 6.5 rear and 6.0mm ride height and the droop has been compensated for the ride height. (increased=more droop)

geeunit1014

iTrader: (14)

The top ball ends are pretty much the same as the regular at21. The at21s is 0.5mm shorter

geeunit1014

iTrader: (14)

I would soften your front spring up a bunch. You already have a lot of droop, I don't think more will help too much. The front spring is pretty stuff though. Add 1mm to your B gap and try. Don't be afraid to really soften more as well, especially since you said you were running on asphalt instead of carpet