Jerry P

iTrader: (44)

Which Chassis are you currently running? EXL or L?

bucketboy

I'm not. I had an A700 a couple of years ago and the chassic was soft, very easy to scratch up if you rode the kerbs, it felt "floppy" compared to other carbon, felt more like GRP sheet. The track I raced at was brutal, I loved the A700, hated the "DNF's" In truth I probably bought the car a bit too early, spare were difficult to get, trackside help and set ups were none existant. In the past 2 years things have changed and I am seriously looking to get another.

Bb

Jerry P

iTrader: (44)

I am currently running the EXL chassis on carpet and ran it on asphalt and didnt feel the chassis was too flexible. I have even run T cut top decks because i wanted to soften the car up even more. Lot's of L chassis cars locally and i havent heard anyone complain about the chassis being soft. Some have even cut holes in to the chassis.

bucketboy

The chassis is wide with few cut out so it was not too flexible but the sheet material was soft and compared to other carbon it certainly was not as springy, tap it with an allen key it had a duller thud rather than a matalic ring. It was also much easier to drill, file and sand than any other carbon I have used.

Where and when do you race? I'm in NY at the end of the month, if I find time, the wife lets me and the snow allows I might pop over for a look.



Bb

bucketboy

DP

Jerry P

iTrader: (44)

I live in the NYC area and i race on Saturday's in Horsham PA (about 1.5 hours from nyc) and on sunday's i run at Crispy critters in NJ (about 40 minutes from NYC). A few of the Awesomatix guys (me included) will be going to snowbirds in FL at the end of month.

bucketboy

Bit to far

L.Fairtrace

iTrader: (24)

Im curious as to why a "soft chassis" would cause DNF's?

garnham

Iv just been looking at Freddy's and viljami lastest set ups with the evo kit and I noticed that on the front top links they are running them at different lengths. The ff link is 2 or 1 holes longer than the fr link, I was just wandering why they are doing this and what affect it has on the car?

JayBee

iTrader: (31)

DITTO

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

Please sound out if your going to the 2014 Snowbirds. Right now I'm aware of the following folks attend (along w/ myself).

Karl Hoffmesiter
Jerry Perez
Monti "The Mangler"
Brian Wynn
Larry Fairtrace
Roberto Falcon

bucketboy

Chassis was fine, caused no problem but there is now an ali (stiffer) chassis which is why I mentioned stiffer carbon chassis. DNF's were due to ball studs popping off, CVJ's springing apart, the tiny E clips on the drive shaft and CVJ'S pins falling off, steering rack over-riding the ball races on the steering posts, plastic C clips coming off the balls that hold the whishbones, stripped spur gears, shock torsion spring popping off, bent track rods that make up top A arms and a bent front' to rear drive shaft that shorted out and fried my speedo. As I said the track was brutal and to be fair, I never acually broke anything, it was fast, consistant, easy to drive and a joy to build but IMO is was too fragile.

Bb

Oleg Babich

You can get some benefits with the unequal top links.

The sample of FFG top balls arrangement:

FF hole is the 2nd
FR hole is the 4th

At this configuration the effective top link length is about 1mm shorter than at 3rd holes for FF and FR top balls and this is more easy to install as you do not have to unscrew AM42 and AM54 link holders every time to add some shims under balls. You can use ST24 steel ball studs with easy at this configuration.

gocoogs

iTrader: (24)

So I have two of the GD1s built exactly to the manual specifications. If I hold them with gear side down and when I turn the out-drive, the other side doesn't move. However if i push the out-drive into the diff, it moves fine (although slightly notchy). Both of my diffs are exactly the same... and i have built and rebuilt them 3 times. Granted, I know I am new to this car, but the only think i can think is there needs to be some shims added somewhere, but it isn't noted anywhere in the manual that it needs to be done. I saw a few posts on Petit that talked about grinding down a small part .15mm and adding .1 shims in there, but it really baffles me that would be necessary given how precise everything else is on this car?

Anyone else experience this with the Diff? is that why they came out with a GD2?

Thanks,
Justin

erchn

iTrader: (7)

The grinding down step was to push the larger gears closer to the 4 gear set, tightening things up slightly, and I think is a good thing to do. The gears in the diff are one of the very few things that aren't manufactured by Oleg's team, as as such have varying levels of quality, IMO. GD2 is a step towards quality, using XRAY gears (at this point), but also some other nice features. GD1 can be made to work extremely well, just take your time with it. If you can get it feeling smooth, which should be very possibly, it should perform nicely.

This is the original post by oleg.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ml#post9878602