143LikesAwesomatix EP Touring Car (A700 Shaft Drive)
10-31-2013, 10:41 AM
#4651
The most popular A700L USA spec costs $727 new vs say $520 for your T4... Not sure what car you are talking about that you can get 2 of them for the price. I am sure whatever cars that are finishing on top are not "Box Stock" either.
I came from all Tamiya cars and when you start adding up all the "blue crack" hop up's, suspension blocks, springs, raceberry chassis for example it's really not that much different...
I got mine used... Still a lot of money no doubt, but I am very happy to be on team vodka and no plans on going back. I have found this car much easier to drive in all classes I have tried it in. The shock changes are so easy and I would never want to go back to standard springs/shocks with that maintenance.
I do highly recommend anyone who gets this car to get some Hudy setup gauges and the "caster doodles." This makes changing the rest of the car setup SOOO much easier.
10-31-2013, 11:03 AM
#4652
Most of the common consumables are very durable, and if they do break they are symmetrical. No left or right of anything, or front or rear of anything, except the add on pieces for the front and rear hubs.In the end I wasn't toting nearly as much stuff and my parts stash was considerably smaller than with past cars.
Mike Slaughter
10-31-2013, 12:06 PM
#4653
I agree with where Brent is going if you are using plastic diff gears. Grab and hold a rear wheel and the spur and give the other wheel a spin to see if the clicking noise shows up. Or even spin the drivetrain (without pinion) by hand and quickly grab one of the rear wheels.
Or pull the diff out (its so quick and easy to do) and give the gears a look over and if you can see significant gear material in the fluid and add a .1mm shim behind the outdrive gear.
You should hitch a ride with Dave Arnold sometime and come check out the freshly carpeted GR track!
Mike Slaughter
Or pull the diff out (its so quick and easy to do) and give the gears a look over and if you can see significant gear material in the fluid and add a .1mm shim behind the outdrive gear.
You should hitch a ride with Dave Arnold sometime and come check out the freshly carpeted GR track!
Mike Slaughter
I think I need to update to the slipped adaptor for it....there is no way I can tightened the old system without getting slipped with couple brakes using...
Btw....driving down with DAVE ARNOLD...? OH no...no thank you, I rather walk by myself, because I am sure Dave will give me a BS, Master and PHD degrees on 12th scale for dummy lesson once we are on the road.....
Last edited by Solara; 10-31-2013 at 01:32 PM.
10-31-2013, 12:56 PM
#4654
Money is just paper and debt is just a term...
The most popular A700L USA spec costs $727 new vs say $520 for your T4... Not sure what car you are talking about that you can get 2 of them for the price. I am sure whatever cars that are finishing on top are not "Box Stock" either.
I came from all Tamiya cars and when you start adding up all the "blue crack" hop up's, suspension blocks, springs, raceberry chassis for example it's really not that much different...
I got mine used... Still a lot of money no doubt, but I am very happy to be on team vodka and no plans on going back. I have found this car much easier to drive in all classes I have tried it in. The shock changes are so easy and I would never want to go back to standard springs/shocks with that maintenance.
I do highly recommend anyone who gets this car to get some Hudy setup gauges and the "caster doodles." This makes changing the rest of the car setup SOOO much easier.
The most popular A700L USA spec costs $727 new vs say $520 for your T4... Not sure what car you are talking about that you can get 2 of them for the price. I am sure whatever cars that are finishing on top are not "Box Stock" either.
I came from all Tamiya cars and when you start adding up all the "blue crack" hop up's, suspension blocks, springs, raceberry chassis for example it's really not that much different...
I got mine used... Still a lot of money no doubt, but I am very happy to be on team vodka and no plans on going back. I have found this car much easier to drive in all classes I have tried it in. The shock changes are so easy and I would never want to go back to standard springs/shocks with that maintenance.
I do highly recommend anyone who gets this car to get some Hudy setup gauges and the "caster doodles." This makes changing the rest of the car setup SOOO much easier.
10-31-2013, 01:41 PM
#4655
By the way , Dual joint front axles are included in all A700 kits.
With the car being very popular now, one doesn't need to purchase much in spares because it's becoming commonplace to have support at almost any race.
Our local club has over 10 A700 drivers now.
Jake D.
With the car being very popular now, one doesn't need to purchase much in spares because it's becoming commonplace to have support at almost any race.
Our local club has over 10 A700 drivers now.
Jake D.
10-31-2013, 04:14 PM
#4656
My VTA setup from this past weekend's Halloween Classic is posted below. The setup is a 99% carbon copy of Larry's TC setup. The deviation in setup is the additional weight to make the 1550g min and roller center to get the feel I was looking for. I don't get to say this often, but, I felt I had the fastest and best handling car in the VTA class. My next event will be the Indoor Champs, I look forward to meeting up with the other Awesomatix drivers again.
Attachment 1128648
Attachment 1128648
i've added your setup online too -- http://www.awesomatixusa.com/p/setup-sheets.html
11-01-2013, 08:47 AM
#4658
I haven't seen this posted yet but i know it's happened to many as I've found them on the track at the 2 national races I've been to lately.
I'm having problems loosing swaybar mounts, P05. If you tap a corner hard enough with the wheel turned the wheel can turn in hard enough to hit the swaybar causing the mount to pop out and fall off the car. I've done a few things like put longer screws in the steering block to stop the wheel from turning in to far, and I've put the sway bar in upside down so the angle at the end is up versus down but everyone once in awhile I hit a corner just right and loose a mount.
Has anyone come up with a method to keep the mount at least on the swaybar so you don't loose it?
I was thinking about putting a small piece of shrink wrap on the end of the bar so the mount won't be lost it will just need to be reinserted.
Oleg, If a better solution to keep the bottom of P05 in P04 could be found it would be greatly appreciated. Maybe make the opening in P04 where the ball of P05 inserts smaller so it snaps in harder would help. I think this happens more in the US than Europe due to the bearer systems we use.
I'm having problems loosing swaybar mounts, P05. If you tap a corner hard enough with the wheel turned the wheel can turn in hard enough to hit the swaybar causing the mount to pop out and fall off the car. I've done a few things like put longer screws in the steering block to stop the wheel from turning in to far, and I've put the sway bar in upside down so the angle at the end is up versus down but everyone once in awhile I hit a corner just right and loose a mount.
Has anyone come up with a method to keep the mount at least on the swaybar so you don't loose it?
I was thinking about putting a small piece of shrink wrap on the end of the bar so the mount won't be lost it will just need to be reinserted.
Oleg, If a better solution to keep the bottom of P05 in P04 could be found it would be greatly appreciated. Maybe make the opening in P04 where the ball of P05 inserts smaller so it snaps in harder would help. I think this happens more in the US than Europe due to the bearer systems we use.
11-01-2013, 09:15 AM
#4659
I do have an idea for the future, but I think it would require a little bit longer ends to the sway bars. You could then add a circle type clamp at the end. So if it does pop off the U holder will not get lost. The way it is now the clamp at the end doesn't have enough room. So another say 3-5mm on the end should give plenty of room to add one of these without interfering with the movement.
11-01-2013, 09:19 AM
#4660
I haven't seen this posted yet but i know it's happened to many as I've found them on the track at the 2 national races I've been to lately.
I'm having problems loosing swaybar mounts, P05. If you tap a corner hard enough with the wheel turned the wheel can turn in hard enough to hit the swaybar causing the mount to pop out and fall off the car. I've done a few things like put longer screws in the steering block to stop the wheel from turning in to far, and I've put the sway bar in upside down so the angle at the end is up versus down but everyone once in awhile I hit a corner just right and loose a mount.
Has anyone come up with a method to keep the mount at least on the swaybar so you don't loose it?
I was thinking about putting a small piece of shrink wrap on the end of the bar so the mount won't be lost it will just need to be reinserted.
Oleg, If a better solution to keep the bottom of P05 in P04 could be found it would be greatly appreciated. Maybe make the opening in P04 where the ball of P05 inserts smaller so it snaps in harder would help. I think this happens more in the US than Europe due to the bearer systems we use.
I'm having problems loosing swaybar mounts, P05. If you tap a corner hard enough with the wheel turned the wheel can turn in hard enough to hit the swaybar causing the mount to pop out and fall off the car. I've done a few things like put longer screws in the steering block to stop the wheel from turning in to far, and I've put the sway bar in upside down so the angle at the end is up versus down but everyone once in awhile I hit a corner just right and loose a mount.
Has anyone come up with a method to keep the mount at least on the swaybar so you don't loose it?
I was thinking about putting a small piece of shrink wrap on the end of the bar so the mount won't be lost it will just need to be reinserted.
Oleg, If a better solution to keep the bottom of P05 in P04 could be found it would be greatly appreciated. Maybe make the opening in P04 where the ball of P05 inserts smaller so it snaps in harder would help. I think this happens more in the US than Europe due to the bearer systems we use.
11-01-2013, 09:21 AM
#4661
definitely have had a problem with this too, thoguht about putting a dab of shoe goo on the end of my sway bar to prevent it from popping out. Have also seen guys run heat shrink as well.
I posted this before I read the other two.... had the thread sitting open for awhile
I posted this before I read the other two.... had the thread sitting open for awhile
11-01-2013, 09:40 AM
#4662
For the first controlled practice, Sudhoff will run a new design of differential in his car which was only delivered to he hotel just before lunch time. He said the diff is ‘typical Oleg (Babich) design’ and just in his hand already feels a lot smoother than the previous design.
11-01-2013, 10:06 AM
#4663
Hi Brent - There's 2 ways to prevent or limit losing the mounts. 1st is to put a dab of Shoegoo on the tips of the sway bars. 2nd is to put a thin heat shrink or wire insulator on the tips of the sway bar. Both methods won't prevent the mount from popping out but you won't lose them when it does.
11-01-2013, 02:37 PM
#4665
If Usgt was 8Minutes, Ray's tc4 would have lapped the Field !!!! No way to beat that tc4 with an Xray T3 !!! The tc4 guys are superfast, and can only be matched by the Awesomatix.......
Karl - DO WORK SON! Grats on the TQ and win. Would have been cool to see how an 8 min USGT main would have worked out (That is what they should be...)
I wish I could have a weekend do-over myself... Still had fun and learned plenty from my many mistakes I made. Anyways, it was nice to meet you guys. Hopefully the next big race I manage to make I can represent and not ride on the fail train.
Any setup sheets for the A main group in 17.5? Also John C. do you have a setup sheet for that VTA ride?
I wish I could have a weekend do-over myself... Still had fun and learned plenty from my many mistakes I made. Anyways, it was nice to meet you guys. Hopefully the next big race I manage to make I can represent and not ride on the fail train.
Any setup sheets for the A main group in 17.5? Also John C. do you have a setup sheet for that VTA ride?