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Old 01-21-2012, 02:21 PM   #1426
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Hey Ethan,

The 4.8mm Kyosho Hard ball cups (gunmetal) are a direct replacement and seem to hold up very well. The standard (black) ones get bent and twisted somewhat easily but the balls seem to stay tight . Thankfully they are inexpensive.

As far as developing tweak, I haven't used ANY of the ST09 in any of my setups and haven't noticed any tweak occurring. I center the deck as best I can then tighten the screws nice and tight. I don't get into too many wrecks, so I don't check it or loosen the deck often. Basically I'm suggesting that you may want to try running without ST09, maybe you'll like the car that way ? btw, to gain some more chassis flex I'll be using ST09 in my next practice sessions. I hope the car remains as nimble as it has been.

Jake D.
Hey Jake,

I use the Kyosho gun metal gray ball cups as well. Yea inexpensive, just a hassle, but it is what it is.

Thanks.
Ethan
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Old 01-21-2012, 04:02 PM   #1427
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What sizes does the bearing B106RS have ?

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Old 01-21-2012, 04:10 PM   #1428
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What sizes does the bearing B106RS have ?

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Here is a list of all of the sizes... thanks to John.C.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/9884485-post790.html
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Old 01-22-2012, 12:28 AM   #1429
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I find having to loosen the AT21 pivot ball to relieve top deck tweak to be kind of annoying (when running long upper links), since I have to pop the ball end off each time, which will cause slop over time. I'm thinking of going to XRAY style ball ends and ball studs. Anyone else have an alternative, or find a better way?

Also, I've had one of the P06 downstop collars spin free in my chassis when adjusting the set screw. I ended up popping it back out and filing small slots in the chassis to allow the glue to penetrate. Any other tips to keep this from happening? I think having some sort of knurled metal collar would provide better grip in the chassis.

thoughts?

thanks ya'll.
Ethan
I've put the X-ray ones on, much better for adjusting when needed. Regarding the metal collets, I've sanded mine down to be exactly the same height as the top deck, once you screw down on to them now, it's perfect every time!
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Old 01-22-2012, 05:15 AM   #1430
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I use a 2mm Hudy wrench underneath the ball cup (there is a rounded bit on the underside just perfect) but on top of the gearbox cover creating leverage which pops the ball joint off effortlessly, leaving no marks or distorting the cup, no extra slack created
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Old 01-23-2012, 06:08 AM   #1431
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Some quick pics of how I measure out the castor... using the depth gauge from digital calipers. Note the numbers, then mulitply the front by 1.5, and the rear by 2.5 (as per the manual).

HiH
Ed
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Old 01-23-2012, 12:54 PM   #1432
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thanks Ed. It is starting to make sense now

Good new is Awesomatix presence is slowly growing in Sydney, with another 2 guys making the jump so thats 4 of us spreading the word.
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Old 01-23-2012, 02:07 PM   #1433
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.....
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Last edited by A Ilievski; 01-24-2012 at 01:17 PM.
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Old 01-24-2012, 04:22 AM   #1434
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thanks Ed. It is starting to make sense now

Good new is Awesomatix presence is slowly growing in Sydney, with another 2 guys making the jump so thats 4 of us spreading the word.
I've got some time off this week, so I'm drawing up a build tips, and a general setting up advice as well... should have something up on my site by the end of the week.

HiH
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Old 01-24-2012, 04:28 AM   #1435
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Possibly 5 soon
Team "change the car a lot"
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Old 01-24-2012, 04:29 AM   #1436
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thanks Ed. It is starting to make sense now

Good new is Awesomatix presence is slowly growing in Sydney, with another 2 guys making the jump so thats 4 of us spreading the word.
And some selling them off/retiring them in Victoria
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Old 01-24-2012, 06:53 AM   #1437
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http://www.redrc.net/2012/01/kanzen-...esomatix-a700/
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Old 01-24-2012, 07:37 AM   #1438
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And some selling them off/retiring them in Victoria
Just needs time...
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Old 01-24-2012, 07:43 AM   #1439
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As promised, here's my build tips guide. Taken a lot of info from this thread, so it's not all my work! Thanks to Oleg, Mark, Tom and others for the input!

THard.co.uk A700 Build tips

Also posted up a (short) list of spares and options. I've left that thread unlocked for those who have other thoughts to contribute

THard.co.uk A700 Spares and options list

HiH
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Old 01-24-2012, 10:23 AM   #1440
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Oleg,

Have you considered going from a 3 bearing steering plate to a 4 bearing steering plate?

At full-steering lock, tapping the board can derail the steering rack. Had a couple of occurrences past weekend.

Look forward to hearing your thoughts.
Hey Mark,

Were you using the IAS when this happened? I attached a pic of something you can do to limit the travel on the one side (still symmetrical left/right). I haven't had any issues with the stock rack, and with this fix I haven't had any issues with the IAS rack.

This Sunday was a really intense day of racing, Martin Crisp came out for some testing before the Snowbirds race, and was in my qualifier (we were nose to tail pretty much all day). I managed to get Tq after round 3 (Martin kept having issues with lapped traffic, he was also on Jaco Blues, so I had a bit of an advantage). In the final, Martin was all over the back end of my car, but wasn't able to get by clean so he kept giving back the position he could make it without contact. In the process we ended up dropping to 2nd and 3rd, with about a minute left to go we were about a second behind first. Literally on the last lap, first place scrubbed a corner pushing wide enough for me to squeeze by, I ended up getting first by 0.215 seconds. Martins fast lap was 9.799, and mine was 9.800

Setup-wise, I decided to try shorter upper arms front and rear, as well as asymmetric dampening. I came to the conclusion that I prefer the front and rear dampening settings that are closer together (not much difference between front and rear). This setup was the best I've felt the car so far!

I also had a very high impact crash (one that would've most likely broken the front arm, c-hub, and maybe even a knuckle on a conventional TC), I ended up bending the front rear upper turnbuckle, and the front universal disassembled. I think Oleg put a lot of thought into the front universals, it seems that at a certain force of an impact, they're designed to just pop open, rather than sheering off or bending (reassembled using original cage and it has no slop still).
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