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Old 11-27-2011, 05:19 PM   #946
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my last setup from Yatabe arena is availble on awesomatix.com/download/

Also wanted to say: tweak and ride height there are two main things which you need to check and if they is ok, everything schould be fine.

Don't forget to check if suspension feels free (without dampers) when you lift it up and down, same with steering system.

After big crash pay attention if low carbon suspension arms were bended.
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Old 11-27-2011, 05:46 PM   #947
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can someone explain to me the 'active caster'?

What does it actually do, increase caster as suspension is compressed or opposite?
Opposite is the normal setting-rear of top arm higher than the front of the arm.

However you can set it to increase caster through compression.
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Old 11-27-2011, 06:27 PM   #948
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Had a great weekend with the car. Learned more. Attached is the latest progression. Aggressive set-up. New starting setup for carpet.

The bite was really good at both of the tracks I ran at this weekend (Middle River Hobbies (MD) and Horsham Raceway (PA)). Middle River is small and technical while Horsham is rather fast/technical.

For next week - I would like to get the car to rotate through turns faster.

Biggest gains for this weekend was picking up a better feel with the use of spool. I was able to better find braking points and drive the car in harder. The second biggest changer was moving the front battery forward. The car really woke up and picked up on power steering. I could probably tune in more antidive and play with reactive camber. Getting close to having a more predictable setup that can be tuned with various bodies in ways that predictable.
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Awesomatix EP Touring Car-mark-dawson_carpet-starting-setup_v2.jpg  
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Old 11-27-2011, 07:00 PM   #949
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Originally Posted by MDawson View Post
Had a great weekend with the car. Learned more. Attached is the latest progression. Aggressive set-up. New starting setup for carpet.

The bite was really good at both of the tracks I ran at this weekend (Middle River Hobbies (MD) and Horsham Raceway (PA)). Middle River is small and technical while Horsham is rather fast/technical.

For next week - I would like to get the car to rotate through turns faster.

Biggest gains for this weekend was picking up a better feel with the use of spool. I was able to better find braking points and drive the car in harder. The second biggest changer was moving the front battery forward. The car really woke up and picked up on power steering. I could probably tune in more antidive and play with reactive camber. Getting close to having a more predictable setup that can be tuned with various bodies in ways that predictable.
Nice work.Mark..
question Do you perfer to use the longer camber link than the standard
does the longer link make the car drive smoother and lazy?
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Old 11-27-2011, 07:32 PM   #950
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Nice work.Mark..
question Do you perfer to use the longer camber link than the standard
does the longer link make the car drive smoother and lazy?
I prefer the longer links as it smooths out the car on entry and generally has more on-power steering for me.

That said, I have list of thing to work through from where I am at currently.This is my punch card list to work through and debunk.

For the setups I have been playing with - short wheelbase.


A - long links (f/r) with gear diff (putty) front, gear diff 80wt rear - conservative, smooth

B - long links (f/r) with spool front, gear diff 80wt rear - more aggressive than A

I need to go back to the standard links this week. Will try these variations to my setup. My early thoughts would be:

C - long link (f), std link (r) with spool front, gear diff 80wt rear - better rotation improving B. Possibly a good option.

D - long link (f), std link (r) gear diff (putty) front, gear diff 80wt rear - better rotation than A but not as aggressive as B

E - std link (f), std link (r) with gear diff (putty) front, gear diff 80wt rear - more reactive than C. Possibly a good option.

F - std link (f), std link (r) with spool front, gear diff 80wt rear - this might be fastest of the variations but might prove to be challenging if the bite comes up

My work list.
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Old 11-27-2011, 09:49 PM   #951
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Originally Posted by MDawson View Post
I prefer the longer links as it smooths out the car on entry and generally has more on-power steering for me.

That said, I have list of thing to work through from where I am at currently.This is my punch card list to work through and debunk.

For the setups I have been playing with - short wheelbase.


A - long links (f/r) with gear diff (putty) front, gear diff 80wt rear - conservative, smooth

B - long links (f/r) with spool front, gear diff 80wt rear - more aggressive than A

I need to go back to the standard links this week. Will try these variations to my setup. My early thoughts would be:

C - long link (f), std link (r) with spool front, gear diff 80wt rear - better rotation improving B. Possibly a good option.

D - long link (f), std link (r) gear diff (putty) front, gear diff 80wt rear - better rotation than A but not as aggressive as B

E - std link (f), std link (r) with gear diff (putty) front, gear diff 80wt rear - more reactive than C. Possibly a good option.

F - std link (f), std link (r) with spool front, gear diff 80wt rear - this might be fastest of the variations but might prove to be challenging if the bite comes up

My work list.
wow..Mark that's hell of work list..Keep us inform
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Old 11-28-2011, 03:01 AM   #952
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I have been following this thread for years now...and always read the latest comments about this car, and am preparing to order one in the next couple of months.

No doubt the performance is excellent...my query relates to the durability of the car...more specifically the carbon lower suspension arms. The club where I used to race (and plan to again because it's local) is pretty rough and tumble in terms of cars taking each other out. How does the A700 hold up to impacts, or is the general calibre of driver (who buy this high end car) such that impacts rarely happen. I plan to run boosted 13.5t.

Thanks in advance,

Steve
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Old 11-28-2011, 06:12 AM   #953
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Originally Posted by stephenianjames View Post
I have been following this thread for years now...and always read the latest comments about this car, and am preparing to order one in the next couple of months.

No doubt the performance is excellent...my query relates to the durability of the car...more specifically the carbon lower suspension arms. The club where I used to race (and plan to again because it's local) is pretty rough and tumble in terms of cars taking each other out. How does the A700 hold up to impacts, or is the general calibre of driver (who buy this high end car) such that impacts rarely happen. I plan to run boosted 13.5t.

Thanks in advance,

Steve
Hi Steve

Sure Oleg and the boys have other comments to share.

From my use.

The A700 will probably attract a different range of drivers that will probably not be of the 'basher' level. That said, the car is very capable of going fast quickly especially in short distances. My first weekend out my car caught the edge of an unfortunate tear in the carpet which sent the car near full speed into the boards. The car bounced off the of board limp. The front left suspension looked caved in. It looked bad but at the end - the lower steering hub ballcup popped out, the upper ball link popped off and it popped off the lower control arm c-clip. I popped on three parts, took a look at the alignment and was out of the track 10 min later. No parts breakage.

I have had more than my share of driving punched through areas of the track that I shouldn't have - glancing blows, board-shots. No parts breakage. Arms are straight.

I now have about 900+ laps with the car - my parts count has been much lower than expected.

The replacement list:

- (3) spur gears - user error here
- (1) turnbuckle - this was really early on - glancing shot to board. The stock turnbuckles have deep machined threads. Just hit it wrong.


The 'preference' replacement list:

- (1 set) ballcups - replaced stock ballcups with Kyosho 'hard' ballcups. Similar to the Tamiya 'hard' ballcups - these units are more rigid and fit much tighter.

- (1 set) Lundsford turnbuckles - preference. I have had these turnbuckles survive car kits!

Good luck!
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Old 11-28-2011, 12:50 PM   #954
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Originally Posted by MDawson View Post

- (1 set) Lundsford turnbuckles - preference. I have had these turnbuckles survive car kits!

Good luck!
I was planning on getting a set of Lunsford turnbuckles as well. I was wondering, is the thread pitch the same between stock and lunsford? I wonder because it makes a difference as to whether half of a turn is still 1 degree of camber or other various measurements given in the manual.

Thanks,
Ethan
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Old 11-28-2011, 01:55 PM   #955
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Hi guys, up to what turn motors are you running? Is anyone running the shaft drive setup of Awesomatix with mod 4 - 5 turn motors?

Thanks.
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Old 11-28-2011, 02:04 PM   #956
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I was planning on getting a set of Lunsford turnbuckles as well. I was wondering, is the thread pitch the same between stock and lunsford? I wonder because it makes a difference as to whether half of a turn is still 1 degree of camber or other various measurements given in the manual.

Thanks,
Ethan
The pitch looks the same at 3mm.
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Old 11-28-2011, 03:02 PM   #957
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Hi Mark,

Thanks for your reply....exactly what I was hoping to hear! I think I'll be ordering 1 of these bad boys soon.

Cheers,

Steve

[QUOTE=MDawson;9967117]Hi Steve

Sure Oleg and the boys have other comments to share.

From my use.

The A700 will probably attract a different range of drivers that will probably not be of the 'basher' level. That said, the car is very capable of going fast quickly especially in short distances. My first weekend out my car caught the edge of an unfortunate tear in the carpet which sent the car near full speed into the boards. The car bounced off the of board limp. The front left suspension looked caved in. It looked bad but at the end - the lower steering hub ballcup popped out, the upper ball link popped off and it popped off the lower control arm c-clip. I popped on three parts, took a look at the alignment and was out of the track 10 min later. No parts breakage.

I have had more than my share of driving punched through areas of the track that I shouldn't have - glancing blows, board-shots. No parts breakage. Arms are straight.

I now have about 900+ laps with the car - my parts count has been much lower than expected.

The replacement list:

- (3) spur gears - user error here
- (1) turnbuckle - this was really early on - glancing shot to board. The stock turnbuckles have deep machined threads. Just hit it wrong.


The 'preference' replacement list:

- (1 set) ballcups - replaced stock ballcups with Kyosho 'hard' ballcups. Similar to the Tamiya 'hard' ballcups - these units are more rigid and fit much tighter.

- (1 set) Lundsford turnbuckles - preference. I have had these turnbuckles survive car kits!

Good luck![/QUOTE]
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Old 11-28-2011, 05:33 PM   #958
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Originally Posted by rccartips View Post
Hi guys, up to what turn motors are you running? Is anyone running the shaft drive setup of Awesomatix with mod 4 - 5 turn motors?

Thanks.
The setup sheets listed at the Awesomatix site show people using 4T and 4.5T motors with the motor in the longitudinal layout.

http://www.awesomatix.com/download/

Ethan
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Old 11-28-2011, 11:03 PM   #959
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Hi all,

Anyone have the lengths of the long upper arm turnbuckles?

thanks,
Ethan
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Old 11-28-2011, 11:09 PM   #960
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Originally Posted by erchn View Post
Hi all,

Anyone have the lengths of the long upper arm turnbuckles?

thanks,
Ethan
Nevermind, found 'em. Thanks for the past post, Oleg. :-)
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