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Old 11-24-2011, 04:24 PM   #901
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What is the cost of the kit in the U.S.A?
It fluctuates due to the conversion rate , but figure on $800.
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Old 11-24-2011, 06:55 PM   #902
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The back end would step out a bit too violently so I cut the deck and immediately noticed the improvement in overall stability. .
Was this with both left and right hand turns?

How was your up-travel on your arms? Was there any slop before the dampener engaged? Curious if all 4 had the same 'feel' on uptravel .
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Old 11-24-2011, 10:36 PM   #903
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Repost from a while back:

I noticed that the gearing choices shown in the manual limit the size of spur/pinion combos. Is this due to the amount of movement provided by the motor mount, or just what was included in the chart? Could I, for instance, fit a 78/18 48-pitch combo in the longitudinal configuration? Maybe a spur gear larger than 73 (or 96 in 64-pitch) will hit the top deck or chassis?

Thanks all.
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Old 11-24-2011, 11:55 PM   #904
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Was this with both left and right hand turns?

How was your up-travel on your arms? Was there any slop before the dampener engaged? Curious if all 4 had the same 'feel' on uptravel .
Mark,

I believe it was both right and left. And this was with the stiff upper deck meant for foam tires ( as Oleg explained previously ) so it didn't concern me. I was running on rubber tires on ozite carpet. Once I cut the deck the car was very stable. We do have one large bump on a high speed sweeper that makes every TC unstable and unpredictable. The A700 handles the dots very nicely, but this one bump even it cannot handle. It is possible that cars, going over this bump ,with gear diffs are having more of an issue than the ones with traditional ball differentials!?

I just checked, the up stop allows the tires to get to the bottom of the chassis. Maybe I should allow a bit more. Good point. ( or am I misunderstanding your use of the term "up travel" )

Yes, I noticed the bit of slop ( on two corners ) before the spring and damper engage at full droop. I discussed it with a buddy last night and we both thought SPR02 could be "adjusted" ( bent ) a bit to remedy this. Also my friend suggested a piece of shrink wrap around ST05 could reduce the free play at full droop.

Tomorrow I'll have a rare test only day due to Thanksgiving. If anybody has any suggestions or variations ( from Ivan's setup ) on med-high bite carpet I'd love to hear them. Things that work and even things that don't work that I should avoid !

Cheers,

Jake
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Old 11-25-2011, 12:13 AM   #905
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Yes, I noticed the bit of slop ( on two corners ) before the spring and damper engage at full droop. I discussed it with a buddy last night and we both thought SPR02 could be "adjusted" ( bent ) a bit to remedy this. Also my friend suggested a piece of shrink wrap around ST05 could reduce the free play at full droop.
Hi Jake

They could be bent. I have a theory here.

Can you tell me which of the two corners of the car you are experiencing the slop? Right-Front/Left-Rear or Left-Front/Right-Rear

Like I said, I have a theory here. Found the same issue. Asked Oleg for feedback. In the interim, this has solved the issue.



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Old 11-25-2011, 01:59 AM   #906
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Can you tell me which of the two corners of the car you are experiencing the slop? Right-Front/Left-Rear or Left-Front/Right-Rear
Ah, I see where you are going ! For me it is right front, left rear.

Thanks for showing your interim fix.

Jake
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Old 11-25-2011, 07:31 AM   #907
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Ah, I see where you are going ! For me it is right front, left rear.

Thanks for showing your interim fix.

Jake
Used heat shrink tubing.

The slop is present when there is unsprung weight on arms and car. In my case, in opposite corners of the car. While it wouldnt seem to be an issue when the car has weight - I cant rationalize the the slop not to have an issue when the car is transitioning especially when the dampener engagement is different across diagonal on the chassis. I looked at springs, dampener blades, arms and everything was fine and unbent. The only variation was the engagement on the dampeners. In our case, dampeners that are again opposite areas of the chassis.

My car now has equal dampener engagement and feels more direct/balanced.

A car of this quality - built right should not flat spin in the corners. It happened to me during practice/testing. Fixed that with the removing the flex screws, cut top deck and getting more rear bite. I understand that the chassis initially had foam in mind, thus cutting the top deck, removing flex screws can help the car generate more bite - cant help but think that the cross-chassis dampener issue contributed to those freak episodes of the rear end going light in the corner and spinning out even when the car was perfected 'straight & tweaked' on the setup station and scales.

Hopefully this is not an issue for others - but if it is hope this works for you.
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Old 11-25-2011, 09:53 AM   #908
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Provided I understand the issue at hand..

I had this problem at first, opposite corners with some slack. However I do think there is no issue. (Could be wrong, wouldn't be the first time!)

Basically, IMO, if the spring has any tension left in it when the wishbone is against the droop screw it will automatically take up the slack. So there is no issue with damper engagement so long as there is sufficient spring tension, eliminated simply by raising the droop screw.

Its a little bit like when the droop screws are too low and the spring is falling about on the shock on a conventional TC.

I balanced left/right to within 5g, put the wheels on, then set the ride height in all four corners to within 0.1mm. Then set droop until the spring had no more tension left in it to return the wishbone to the droop screw. I'm at F5.8 R4.8 with ride height F5.2 R5.4. All good now, corners equal, ride height screws equal, droop screws equal, no slack whatsoever, the car pulls dead straight, transitions equally left and right, bang on the money.
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Old 11-25-2011, 12:30 PM   #909
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Provided I understand the issue at hand..

I had this problem at first, opposite corners with some slack. However I do think there is no issue. (Could be wrong, wouldn't be the first time!)

Basically, IMO, if the spring has any tension left in it when the wishbone is against the droop screw it will automatically take up the slack. So there is no issue with damper engagement so long as there is sufficient spring tension, eliminated simply by raising the droop screw.

Its a little bit like when the droop screws are too low and the spring is falling about on the shock on a conventional TC.

I balanced left/right to within 5g, put the wheels on, then set the ride height in all four corners to within 0.1mm. Then set droop until the spring had no more tension left in it to return the wishbone to the droop screw. I'm at F5.8 R4.8 with ride height F5.2 R5.4. All good now, corners equal, ride height screws equal, droop screws equal, no slack whatsoever, the car pulls dead straight, transitions equally left and right, bang on the money.
I would agree with you but.... in my case the equal droop and ride height settings were use left to right in the front and back.

Interesting that you run so little front droop...
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Old 11-25-2011, 03:23 PM   #910
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I have slop on three corners (Front/Driver, Front/passenger, Rear/Driver). I'm running 5mm ride height on all four corners and droop is set to 2.5mm over ride height. I usually run anywhere between 1.5-3.5mm (over ride height) of droop at my local track. I'm going to reset my shocks to ensure everything was/is set correctly. I'm hoping this will fix the problem. I haven't had to use this much shrink wrap since the Losi JRX-S.

My car will get a full shakedown on Thursday. My top deck is uncut and is in it's original state. I'll test different setups with flex screws, link lengths, roll center, camber, etc.
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Old 11-25-2011, 04:06 PM   #911
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Very tempted............................
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Old 11-25-2011, 04:13 PM   #912
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Originally Posted by Magnet Top View Post
I had my first run last night with the A700. I quickly tried the top deck uncut, then fully cut. I'll echo what others are finding. The back end would step out a bit too violently so I cut the deck and immediately noticed the improvement in overall stability. I'd suggest someone try cutting most but not all if given the time to test.

I'm happy to say I was "TQ" on my first night with the car. It performed very well and was on par with the best cars I've driven. My belief is, this car will stay good and consistent every night whereas other chassis's lose their consistency very quickly. This on the first night is very encouraging. I used Ivan Laptev's setup which I feel is a good starting point. It has plenty of steering ( with a Speed 6 ) however I think I'll try lock in the rear a bit more because I had to trim back steering or it became a bit too aggressive ( for me ).

In an effort to make caster and camber adjustments easier I milled a block that sits atop the uprights. It allows me, with or without setup stands, to monitor the camber while changing the caster using an iPhone running the Clinometer application.
The block I milled is only for the front so far, and reversible for both left and right sides. I used the threaded hole meant for the screw that serves as a steering throw limiter to secure the block while measuring.

All in all, I love the car so far.

Jake D.
Hi Jake,

Unless it was your intention - I *think* your P01 and P02 are backwards.
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Old 11-25-2011, 06:24 PM   #913
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Hello everybody! )

First of all, thanks for the warm words and your activity in the forum! All your conversatins is very important and useful for Awesomatix LTD.

Sorry that I can't answer here very often, but I'll try to do it as more as possible)

About springs and dampers settiings recommend to do everything step by step, when you made you dampers\springs settings, please:

1. Check droop (i measure from the buttom of low arms)

2. Put all electronics and check car wight balance left and right with holes in the buttom of the chassi

3. Check castors, wheels angels

4. Put the car on the alloy settings wheels and check the ride height on all 4 points of the chassis... after that you can adjust your real ride height with race wheels simmetricaly rotate ride height screws

5. put the car on tweak station with alloy wheels and check tweak... if it exists, just turn tiny bit ride height screws to reduse tweak difference...

If you made everything carefuly your springs free play should be similar on both left and right suspensions....
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Old 11-25-2011, 06:34 PM   #914
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if the springs do not play same, need to check all springs together if on of them not similar geometry with others
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Old 11-25-2011, 06:48 PM   #915
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Very tempted............................
it is a little late
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