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Old 11-23-2011, 07:31 AM   #886
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Sorry to hear about your delay mate. Dont let this small delay put you off, you will definately forget all about it once you see the car in the flesh, trust me.
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Old 11-23-2011, 01:58 PM   #887
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Just received my A700 today !
After a 2 week wait

And there were 2 parcels, 1 day apart. I thought, what could the second one be.
Well, it turned out to be 4 ST16 parts

Will be building soon

Greetz,
Christoph
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Old 11-23-2011, 02:04 PM   #888
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnet Top View Post
I just finished building my A700. Throughout the build I was blown away by the precision / tolerances but mostly the design. A new era has begun... Congratulations Oleg and thank you.

If anyone wants to check out my build pictures you can go here :

http://gallery.me.com/jaked#100273

Cheers,

Jake
Great pictures Jake, Thanks !
Will be building mine in the next couple of days

Greetz,
Christoph
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Old 11-23-2011, 02:21 PM   #889
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Good luck with the build Christoph , BUT you cannot use it at the Masters of Foam
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Old 11-23-2011, 08:38 PM   #890
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Good luck with the build Christoph , BUT you cannot use it at the Masters of Foam
Thanks Phil.

And yes, you're right

Greetz,
Christoph
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Old 11-24-2011, 12:48 PM   #891
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Default setup sheets

I have a question on how people are using the setup sheet.

In the setup sheets posted on the Awesomatix site, the section showing frame flex setting, there are red Xs on the "top deck cut" section. Does that mean that the top deck is cut there, or that those pieces are still intact?

I think it means they are still intact.
http://awesomatix.com/engine/download.php?id=25

Thanks,
Ethan
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Old 11-24-2011, 01:14 PM   #892
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erchn View Post
I have a question on how people are using the setup sheet.

In the setup sheets posted on the Awesomatix site, the section showing frame flex setting, there are red Xs on the "top deck cut" section. Does that mean that the top deck is cut there, or that those pieces are still intact?

I think it means they are still intact.
http://awesomatix.com/engine/download.php?id=25

Thanks,
Ethan
I've taken it that its cuts made to the topdeck, as far as the flex screws are concerned the red x indicates which screws are fitted, at least I hope so lol.

It made alot of difference to me making the cuts to get some flex in the car (I'm running carpet/rubber). My first run I hadn't cut the deck and the car was overly aggressive and the back end would break away suddenly (Oleg said on here that the uncut topdeck was more suited to Foams), so for the next run the only change made was the cut topdeck and the car was fantastic, I've settled on a setup similar to Ivans ETS Mod setup, changing only the shocks/droop.

Looking forward to trying a few other things this weekend now that i've had a chance to sortout the balance of the car (finished the build at 4am the morning of the first run lol), running a 300g+ lipo I was quite far out've balance to say the least on the batt side.

Hope this helps.
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Old 11-24-2011, 01:21 PM   #893
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkMcC View Post
I've taken it that its cuts made to the topdeck, as far as the flex screws are concerned the red x indicates which screws are fitted, at least I hope so lol.

It made alot of difference to me making the cuts to get some flex in the car (I'm running carpet/rubber). My first run I hadn't cut the deck and the car was overly aggressive and the back end would break away suddenly (Oleg said on here that the uncut topdeck was more suited to Foams), so for the next run the only change made was the cut topdeck and the car was fantastic, I've settled on a setup similar to Ivans ETS Mod setup, changing only the shocks/droop.

Hope this helps.
Hey Mark,
Thanks for the info. Did you cut every piece of the top deck then, like is shown in that setup sheet I linked to? It's a little confusing because the lines point to 4 points in the rear of the top deck and 3 in front (for longitudinal top deck), but all the boxes are checked with red X's.

Thanks again,
Ethan
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Old 11-24-2011, 01:36 PM   #894
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Hi Ethan

I cut them all mate, took 2min with a dremel between rounds. From what I can see all the latest cars have had tweeks to increase the flex recently, its a sign of the times with the massive HP we have now with boost etc to gain grip and driveability. Try it uncut/cut in practice if you have time, its quite an improvment.
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Old 11-24-2011, 01:40 PM   #895
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkMcC View Post
Hi Ethan

I cut them all mate, took 2min with a dremel between rounds. From what I can see all the latest cars have had tweeks to increase the flex recently, its a sign of the times with the massive HP we have now with boost etc to gain grip and driveability. Try it uncut/cut in practice if you have time, its quite an improvment.
As soon as I get the car, and build it, I definitely will.

Thanks again, I agree the cars do seem to be getting more and more flex options. Given that cutting the top deck is a way way trip, I was just double checking.

E
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Old 11-24-2011, 01:58 PM   #896
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Lol. Make sure you give yourself plenty of time for the build, think twice the normal build time and you wont be far off not including radio gear, setup and body, I got the kit on the fri before a sunday meeting and it was tight to say the least.

Have plenty of part boxs to put the parts in and be careful with the screw lengths etc, Oleg has put alot of thought into the design and used only required lengths for different steps of the build. Very impressive build to say the least.

Good luck and post here to let us know how your getting on.
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Old 11-24-2011, 02:43 PM   #897
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@ Ethan I tried the uncut top deck at Norcal stock class…the car is planted but I’m only using one screw with sleeve on both ends of the top deck for more flex. This Saturday I’m going to set it up for mod as was before I cut them off…because it’s irreversible once you cut them. Come by Saturday at Norcal so you can test drive the car.

I wish the setup sheet will tell you the length of the links both top and bottom (rear & front), as most sponsored drivers use the long link but the manual only gives you the measurement of the short link length and that pretty much determines the caster…otherwise you will have to figure out the length for the long link and figure out your caster. Oleg said he will email me the measurement of the long link length based on Ivan’s mod setup. I also wish Oleg will make clear gear covers as options that would look nice as well.

did anyone try both gear diff (front & rear) setup yet?

thanks,
-dom
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Old 11-24-2011, 03:09 PM   #898
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I had my first run last night with the A700. I quickly tried the top deck uncut, then fully cut. I'll echo what others are finding. The back end would step out a bit too violently so I cut the deck and immediately noticed the improvement in overall stability. I'd suggest someone try cutting most but not all if given the time to test.

I'm happy to say I was "TQ" on my first night with the car. It performed very well and was on par with the best cars I've driven. My belief is, this car will stay good and consistent every night whereas other chassis's lose their consistency very quickly. This on the first night is very encouraging. I used Ivan Laptev's setup which I feel is a good starting point. It has plenty of steering ( with a Speed 6 ) however I think I'll try lock in the rear a bit more because I had to trim back steering or it became a bit too aggressive ( for me ).

In an effort to make caster and camber adjustments easier I milled a block that sits atop the uprights. It allows me, with or without setup stands, to monitor the camber while changing the caster using an iPhone running the Clinometer application.
The block I milled is only for the front so far, and reversible for both left and right sides. I used the threaded hole meant for the screw that serves as a steering throw limiter to secure the block while measuring.

All in all, I love the car so far.

Jake D.
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Old 11-24-2011, 04:04 PM   #899
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnet Top View Post
I had my first run last night with the A700. I quickly tried the top deck uncut, then fully cut. I'll echo what others are finding. The back end would step out a bit too violently so I cut the deck and immediately noticed the improvement in overall stability. I'd suggest someone try cutting most but not all if given the time to test.

I'm happy to say I was "TQ" on my first night with the car. It performed very well and was on par with the best cars I've driven. My belief is, this car will stay good and consistent every night whereas other chassis's lose their consistency very quickly. This on the first night is very encouraging. I used Ivan Laptev's setup which I feel is a good starting point. It has plenty of steering ( with a Speed 6 ) however I think I'll try lock in the rear a bit more because I had to trim back steering or it became a bit too aggressive ( for me ).

In an effort to make caster and camber adjustments easier I milled a block that sits atop the uprights. It allows me, with or without setup stands, to monitor the camber while changing the caster using an iPhone running the Clinometer application.
The block I milled is only for the front so far, and reversible for both left and right sides. I used the threaded hole meant for the screw that serves as a steering throw limiter to secure the block while measuring.

All in all, I love the car so far.

Jake D.
Jake your car look good...all I can say is wow
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Old 11-24-2011, 04:22 PM   #900
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What is the cost of the kit in the U.S.A?
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