geeunit1014

iTrader: (14)

I dont think you need a special setup guide for this car. It tunes pretty much the same as a standard tc. The only things we have that other cars is reactive caster and the rear bump toe. For the front reactive caster, making rhethe rear link higher than the front makes the car want to turn in harder. For the rear bump toe, more shims reduces the change, which frees the rear up. Other than that its not that complicated. Rear caster adjusts wheelbase. Everything else is pretty similar really.

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

plus -- there is how you adjust the shocks--

http://www.awesomatixusa.com/p/unique-features.html

josecarlo1129

iTrader: (1)

Dear Oleg/Mike,

If I will get the C01L2 - Lower Deck L2, do I need to have the revised arms still, the C04M? Will the arms still rub/hit the P12 (sway bar holder)?

Please advise. TIA.

JC

jamminjim

iTrader: (6)

Thanks Hanulec, thats what I was looking for......more like a how-to sort of guide. This car is so innovative that tuning the same way as other cars may not easily translate. I guess what I'm trying to find is a HOW-TO make these standard adjustments type of guide.

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

yes. the C01L2 chassis is just as narrow as the C01AL-S2

josecarlo1129

iTrader: (1)

Cheers, Mike!

danielc3009

Hi, I'm after some advise. I've just bought a awesomatix 700 evo. I really like car and it handles well with the gear diff but I can't stop the ball diff from slipping. I've stripped it down and cleaned it. I put 1000 cst oil in and built it as per the manual but it still slip unless it really tight! What am I doing wrong?

kartermdb

iTrader: (15)

I have not used the ball diff in this car. However, we used to sand the diff rings to give them more traction. I would try 400-600 grit sandpaper.

MDawson

iTrader: (27)

Welcome to Wes (Evo2) and BrianW (Evo & L) joining the Socal contingent of Awesomatix owners. From trackside to this forum you should be covered.

The guys are already looking comfortable in their new rides!

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

This past week I found and confirmed an issue with non-labeled SPR01S springs. The SPR01 spring is 0.8mm thick. The SPR01S spring is 0.7mm thick, and should contain an 'S' etched into the bottom.

Oleg says they received a new batch of springs in the last month -- so the issue should be limited to recent purchases.

Please be on the look out.....

vapourtrail

The spring washers SPR04 may have lost their tension and need replacing. There could be an incorrect thickness center bearing substituted where B85 should be that's causing the diff halves to not tighten properly. Are the balls and rings ok?

WesRaven

Thanks Mark, you have been an immense help in taking this plunge. The welcome has been very warm, and I'm really excited to be among you all.

Thanks to everyone else on this forum that invest their time for others. My new Evo 2 is already showing some amazing results after only 1 day of practice and dialing it in. Took the TQ and went on to take the win in the A main pretty much untouched after not racing for over a decade. This was Sportsman, but I'll definitely be moving up with the faster folks now that I know I'm not as rusty as I thought I would be.

I dedicate my small time win today to Awesomatix. What an incredible machine

Stogie

iTrader: (2)

As for me, I'm done. It was an occasionally fun (but mostly frustrating) ride during this one year period of experimenting with "something different". Time to step away and return to the realm of the sane.

Cars and parts will NOT be up for sale on the Buy/Sell forum in a couple of days thanks to Jamison R's quippy responses. Thanks a ton, dude. Why you gotta be a hater?

Jamison R

iTrader: (66)

Cant wait to buy your broken parts. Thanks for posting so I know to stay away from that car. Just sayn. Those parts look like you hit a lot of boards.

WesRaven

Sorry to hear about the trouble you've had. It is definitely a very complicated car to work with compared to any other kit I've worked with. My car feels dialed, and all of its settings still intimidate me. I'm far from "knowing" the car.

The only way you could possibly cause that sort of damage is 1) by not having the shock cylinders installed properly so they were "bottoming out" too soon in the suspension travel and/or 2) you didn't have the up-travel screws installed, so when you hit the boards the suspension went up too far breaking/bending those pieces.