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Old 01-08-2015, 11:01 AM   #7756
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Mine still leaks from the right side also. I used AE black grease, green slim and loctite on the set screw also.

The only thing that "slowed" my leak down was to let the oring soak over night in some shock oil. It swelled just enough to slow the leak down.

The oring on the inner part of the diff feels pretty hard. I too would like to find a good silicone one that is the right size. But I really haven't had time to look for one.
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Old 01-08-2015, 11:15 AM   #7757
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Originally Posted by cmunro View Post
no matter what i do my diff leaks from the right out drive ,i have tried black grease, green slime and i thought it was coming from the set scre but i sealed it with loctite and it still leaks like crazy . is there a better oring that fits in there? or is it possible that the diff case is defective? such pretty diff just need to keep oil in it
Probably this o-ring is damaged or defective.
Please try new OR05S o-ring or any P4 size ( Japan JIS standard) o-ring.
For example Kyosho offers several types of P4 o-rings.
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Old 01-08-2015, 11:30 AM   #7758
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmunro View Post
no matter what i do my diff leaks from the right out drive ,i have tried black grease, green slime and i thought it was coming from the set scre but i sealed it with loctite and it still leaks like crazy . is there a better oring that fits in there? or is it possible that the diff case is defective? such pretty diff just need to keep oil in it
Is it possible that you put a normal grub screw in by accident?
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Old 01-08-2015, 11:52 AM   #7759
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmunro View Post
no matter what i do my diff leaks from the right out drive ,i have tried black grease, green slime and i thought it was coming from the set scre but i sealed it with loctite and it still leaks like crazy . is there a better oring that fits in there? or is it possible that the diff case is defective? such pretty diff just need to keep oil in it
I found on my GD2 that since i use greenslime it creates air pressure as you thread the diffs together... i left my set screw undone to get the air pressure out first, i usually let the diff sit for a about a min or 2 on its side to get remain air pressure out the put the set screw with loctite...

No leaks and ran it 3 races now..

Also on GD1 i dont attach 1 outdrive until pressure is out....
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Old 01-08-2015, 03:36 PM   #7760
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oleg Babich View Post
OR03 is the big O-ring that seals the join between AT23 and AT24.

Do you mean OR05 maybe?

Could you please to measure the outer and the inner diameters of your OR05.
It should be JIS P4 o-ring sizes: 3,8/7,6mm.
I have GD2 leaking issues as well. Thinking of trying some different o-rings based on the size Oleg mentions above. My OR05's seem a little too hard which I'm thinking is leading to the leak issue.

Found a few P4 size silicone type here: http://www.amain.com/search?s=p4%20o-ring&cID=5321
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Old 01-08-2015, 07:37 PM   #7761
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A700 Evo II pics from this past weekend
http://www.awesomatixusa.com/p/a700-evo-ii.html
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Old 01-08-2015, 08:01 PM   #7762
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Oh man, that is RC porn for me...
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Old 01-08-2015, 08:14 PM   #7763
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Amazing.
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Old 01-08-2015, 09:27 PM   #7764
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Just built a new set of D2 shocks tonight. I'm going to be trying Associated 80wt/1000cst.

I think the big trick is to use a TON of oil. You need to get oil down the AT40 impeller shaft to drive out any air within the unit. Holding the shocks up to your ear once assembled you should not hear any air moving around when twisting the AT40. After my 3rd shock I finally got the build right on the 1st try.

We have a two day race at Horsham Sat/Sun -- and a bunch of the Awesomatix USA posse will be in the building dialing in their A700 Evo II (4 of 5 w/in the country will be at the track). I suspect we will have a LOT of great setup data by Monday.
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Old 01-08-2015, 10:26 PM   #7765
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The D2 shocks actually build quite easily once you figure them out. Both Kyle and I didn't even use a shock pump. Let them sit for a minute after filling and moving the AT41 shock piston a few times back and forth. you can see the bumbles surface and than stop. Finished the assembly and they where butter.

I'm going to try the opposite direction of Hanulec this weekend and go softer. Currently using 575 cst Associated going to 400.
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Old 01-09-2015, 05:39 AM   #7766
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Default Important Notice for anyone racing with new Dampers - D2

After a series of car kit rebuilds, the team has found bent SPR02 when running the D2 dampers. All of the drivers "swear" they didn't hit anything that bad

The advise from Oleg is to enable Upstop limits within the P12 Sway Bar Holder. 15mm to 16mm of Upstop is being recommended. Instructions on how to set the Upstop are found within the EX/L/EXL Instructions on page 35, lower left corner.

You can see this picture, and get this save advisory here-
http://www.awesomatixusa.com/p/rebui...r.html#Updates
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Old 01-09-2015, 06:15 AM   #7767
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AWesome Evo II images right there, Mike.
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Old 01-09-2015, 07:00 AM   #7768
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Thanks JC
There were many more too. Got 20-30 really nice pics. It was hard to pic.
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Old 01-09-2015, 07:31 AM   #7769
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last night i was racing and my car just went 2wd the spool gear split in between the teeth, cant glue back on like some post i have seen becuase it is split all the way though and i feel like it will damage the pinion gear. is this normal , it is a new car i have only ran it for 2 cub races now i need to buy a $70 dollar spool to get it going again
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Last edited by cmunro; 01-09-2015 at 09:14 AM.
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Old 01-09-2015, 04:06 PM   #7770
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Default Evo II presentation

I will post a long and detailed presentation, including some built tips gathered from Oleg and Awesomatix USA.

I hope to be able to keep updating on a daily basis.

JD & RACING

or just click on the image below:

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