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Old 11-02-2011, 01:08 PM   #751
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THE BUILD

First off - It has been a while since I picked up a kit to build that continued to impress to the last settings.

Just wanted to provide some notes:

Step 1 - Page 4: be sure to watch SB3X5 on the top hub (outside) through the graphite. Easy to use the wrong hardware here.

Step 2 - Page 5: Install the ST11 Bushings from the start instead of the clips

Step 4 - Page 7: The P16 Lock Rings are actually clear/white plastic. Easy to look over these when you are building. Might be good to have the manual call out the color of the rings. I was looking for something metal like a c-clip

Step 6 - Page 9: The P06 did not work for me at all. I understand that they might work for others but 2 out of the 4 would not grab into the graphite with CA. End up using a T-nut that worked well.

Step 9 - Page 11: SPR01 - would be nice if there was a deeper anchor point on damper mount or some set screw. Mild issues later keeping the unit aligned during assembly.

Step 22 - Page 16: SB3X5 - dont forget about this screw. Speaking from experience.

Step 25 - Page 18: The manual calls out the trimming of the 'plastic cross' - be sure to trim a little at a time. I can see folks taking off too much material
Step 47 - Page 26: When assembling the rear body mount (AT22) - be sure the the pass-through screw is going through the untapped side first, then the threaded side. Otherwise, it might feel like the unit is not clamping the body post.

Shock Setting Technique - would be helpful to understand the effect that moving the Damper in-board or out-board has an effect on 'feel'. Would be good to get an idea how to measure the damper position for consistency.



IMPRESSIVE:


- The dampers are an incredibly simple idea and love that all of that weight is now low in the chassis

- Steering rack - screams high-quality.

- Spool - mechanical art. Like the steering rack - this is great work. Hope AWESOMATIX keeps up this quality.

- Gear Diff!

- Symmetric and Asymmetric Damper modes - nice touch. Could spend hours on this.

GOOD TO HAVE:

- Decent car-setup board and tools. The intricacy of the rod suspension really needs good use of set-board/gauges/calipers.

Looking forward to the first track passes.
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Old 11-02-2011, 02:13 PM   #752
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MDawson View Post
THE BUILD

First off - It has been a while since I picked up a kit to build that continued to impress to the last settings.

Just wanted to provide some notes:

Step 1 - Page 4: be sure to watch SB3X5 on the top hub (outside) through the graphite. Easy to use the wrong hardware here.

Step 2 - Page 5: Install the ST11 Bushings from the start instead of the clips

Step 4 - Page 7: The P16 Lock Rings are actually clear/white plastic. Easy to look over these when you are building. Might be good to have the manual call out the color of the rings. I was looking for something metal like a c-clip

Step 6 - Page 9: The P06 did not work for me at all. I understand that they might work for others but 2 out of the 4 would not grab into the graphite with CA. End up using a T-nut that worked well.

Step 9 - Page 11: SPR01 - would be nice if there was a deeper anchor point on damper mount or some set screw. Mild issues later keeping the unit aligned during assembly.

Step 22 - Page 16: SB3X5 - dont forget about this screw. Speaking from experience.

Step 25 - Page 18: The manual calls out the trimming of the 'plastic cross' - be sure to trim a little at a time. I can see folks taking off too much material
Step 47 - Page 26: When assembling the rear body mount (AT22) - be sure the the pass-through screw is going through the untapped side first, then the threaded side. Otherwise, it might feel like the unit is not clamping the body post.

Shock Setting Technique - would be helpful to understand the effect that moving the Damper in-board or out-board has an effect on 'feel'. Would be good to get an idea how to measure the damper position for consistency.



IMPRESSIVE:


- The dampers are an incredibly simple idea and love that all of that weight is now low in the chassis

- Steering rack - screams high-quality.

- Spool - mechanical art. Like the steering rack - this is great work. Hope AWESOMATIX keeps up this quality.

- Gear Diff!

- Symmetric and Asymmetric Damper modes - nice touch. Could spend hours on this.

GOOD TO HAVE:

- Decent car-setup board and tools. The intricacy of the rod suspension really needs good use of set-board/gauges/calipers.

Looking forward to the first track passes.
You bringing this piece to Horsham on sat?

Cant wait to take a look at her and maybe even take er for a spin.
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Old 11-02-2011, 02:33 PM   #753
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Originally Posted by L.Fairtrace View Post
You bringing this piece to Horsham on sat?

Cant wait to take a look at her and maybe even take er for a spin.
You got it. Will have to be next Saturday though. At the mini race this weekend.
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Old 11-02-2011, 02:47 PM   #754
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MDawson View Post
THE BUILD

First off - It has been a while since I picked up a kit to build that continued to impress to the last settings.

Just wanted to provide some notes:

Step 1 - Page 4: be sure to watch SB3X5 on the top hub (outside) through the graphite. Easy to use the wrong hardware here.

Step 2 - Page 5: Install the ST11 Bushings from the start instead of the clips

Step 4 - Page 7: The P16 Lock Rings are actually clear/white plastic. Easy to look over these when you are building. Might be good to have the manual call out the color of the rings. I was looking for something metal like a c-clip

Step 6 - Page 9: The P06 did not work for me at all. I understand that they might work for others but 2 out of the 4 would not grab into the graphite with CA. End up using a T-nut that worked well.

Step 9 - Page 11: SPR01 - would be nice if there was a deeper anchor point on damper mount or some set screw. Mild issues later keeping the unit aligned during assembly.

Step 22 - Page 16: SB3X5 - dont forget about this screw. Speaking from experience.

Step 25 - Page 18: The manual calls out the trimming of the 'plastic cross' - be sure to trim a little at a time. I can see folks taking off too much material
Step 47 - Page 26: When assembling the rear body mount (AT22) - be sure the the pass-through screw is going through the untapped side first, then the threaded side. Otherwise, it might feel like the unit is not clamping the body post.

Shock Setting Technique - would be helpful to understand the effect that moving the Damper in-board or out-board has an effect on 'feel'. Would be good to get an idea how to measure the damper position for consistency.



IMPRESSIVE:


- The dampers are an incredibly simple idea and love that all of that weight is now low in the chassis

- Steering rack - screams high-quality.

- Spool - mechanical art. Like the steering rack - this is great work. Hope AWESOMATIX keeps up this quality.

- Gear Diff!

- Symmetric and Asymmetric Damper modes - nice touch. Could spend hours on this.

GOOD TO HAVE:

- Decent car-setup board and tools. The intricacy of the rod suspension really needs good use of set-board/gauges/calipers.

Looking forward to the first track passes.
In full trim - 1388 grams

  • A700Long - steel screws, gear diff, spool
  • RadioPost Servo/Receiver
  • Protoform LTR Body - regular weight
  • 17.5 / ESC
  • 6500 Lipo
No diet needed
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Old 11-03-2011, 02:45 AM   #755
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Anyone looking for a quick easy way to check caster on this car, here it is. The way the manual describes works great although can take some time.
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Old 11-03-2011, 03:42 AM   #756
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@velocity

looks great a quick fix like that ...

but first you have to determinate the highest point to have your 0degrees mark? cause when you move up or down your downstops this point will change ?

after that you can read on your scala the degrees ?
have you done this by yourself?

I don't have the car for a long time and used the caliber to adjust it ...
2.7mmdifference for 4degrees but normaly run 3mm difference so 4.5 degrees

kind regards Tom
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Old 11-03-2011, 07:58 AM   #757
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tbone13 View Post
@velocity

looks great a quick fix like that ...

but first you have to determinate the highest point to have your 0degrees mark? cause when you move up or down your downstops this point will change ?

after that you can read on your scala the degrees ?
have you done this by yourself?

I don't have the car for a long time and used the caliber to adjust it ...
2.7mmdifference for 4degrees but normaly run 3mm difference so 4.5 degrees

kind regards Tom
I don't think the degrees will change .as long the travel is 90deg. straight up and down ..you also have to move the protractor back away ,if you don't it will change the deg. reading and the protractor will not indexes flat c/t caster top block..
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Old 11-04-2011, 05:41 PM   #758
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Is there a performance difference in using bushing r ,bushing s or a c drive
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Old 11-04-2011, 09:02 PM   #759
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Anybody built their A700 with ceramic bearings yet ???
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Old 11-04-2011, 11:47 PM   #760
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Is there a performance difference in using bushing r ,bushing s or a c drive
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Old 11-05-2011, 10:26 AM   #761
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Anybody in the UK order yet? And if so how long did the delivery take from confirmation of payment?

Cheers
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Old 11-05-2011, 01:09 PM   #762
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Price increase? Did the kit change, or did the US dollar just get worse?
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Old 11-05-2011, 03:36 PM   #763
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Price increase? Did the kit change, or did the US dollar just get worse?
The Euro's pretty weak at the moment. Looks like the price is fixed at EU589 and the USD price is changing accordingly.
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Old 11-05-2011, 06:27 PM   #764
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Saw Mark Dawson's car today. WOW this thing is beyond impressive, just wow.
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Old 11-05-2011, 09:22 PM   #765
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Originally Posted by KHoff7 View Post
Saw Mark Dawson's car today. WOW this thing is beyond impressive, just wow.
*fixed*. will hit some hot laps tomorrow.
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