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Old 11-02-2011, 02:12 AM   #736
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Guys, the way the A700 is built, if I were racing it, I would crank up to the highest value every feature on my radio first, then run it like that to see exactly where the limits are on this car !!! I do the same thing on my FTtc4 , and I believe you will find that your car is faster than the radio or the driver !!! You will be two seconds a lap faster than everybody else !!!!
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Old 11-02-2011, 02:41 AM   #737
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Originally Posted by bertrandsv87 View Post
Tbone, I see you ran a little more expo steering, but did you also run a little more expo throttle and brake ? What about more steering speed (turn/return)? What about some throttle acceleration through the radio ? If you crank them up slightly , others will think you're cheating ...lol...
Hy,
Expo and sterring speed etc is all personal likings. every driver has ther own style ... on throttle i just use expoon modified or in offroad

sterring speed also depend on your servo ...I always use it on 100%

just set the functions that you feel comfortably
regards Tom
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Old 11-02-2011, 02:49 AM   #738
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More Expo and more acceleration in pro stock is to get the car to launch quicker out of the corners, since you full throttle alot more than modified... It's also just a suggestion... I run my stock tc4's at 100% expo and 80% throttle acceleration...
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Old 11-02-2011, 03:06 AM   #739
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Originally Posted by bertrandsv87 View Post
More Expo and more acceleration in pro stock is to get the car to launch quicker out of the corners, since you full throttle alot more than modified... It's also just a suggestion... I run my stock tc4's at 100% expo and 80% throttle acceleration...
Yes i know what you mean and I know also that sometimes i used a little +30 on throttle in stock but not on the ETS cause there the motortemps go to high with that gearing (4,5) and then the motor fade ...so no punsh the last minutes ...
on sterring I run -35% expo and feel good with that ...100% is the servo speed ..+100 Expo on sterring will be undrivable...

regards Tom
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Old 11-02-2011, 06:00 AM   #740
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Originally Posted by Tbone13 View Post
Hello Guys,

so back from the ETS and first race done with the A700 there are not many word that I can say, other than the car was really brilliant ...

It change a little cause first of all I was not racing touringcars over the summer and second i got just 1 practise day befor the event.

biggest change to other cars for the driver is that the car is extremely direct in sterring so i raced a little more expo than usually, also that is the reason why you see on some setups that the driver is racing with +2 or even more toe in front !!!
So don't be scare when driving it the first time
cause when you get comfordable with it you will see that no other car is so precise in handling, it does exactly what you want and so it's very easy to drive constant laptimes.

On the other part the car react very strong to every little setup change so please try always 1 change and then test cause when you change 3 things you will get "lost in setup"

some tipps:
- Cutting the Topdeck (ass shown in manual) makes the car a lot easier to drive at the limit in all laps ! ( alot more forgiving)
- running anti-dive in front (look Ivan's setup) is always faster when you need a little more mid-corner speed (changed 0.2sec on best lap and work also on the tamiyas and x-ray's etc)
- remove the flex screws in the rear (look at the manual) easier to drive !

like everybody know in carpet racing you have to glue the edges in highrip conditions. with the A700 you don't need that when you can handle it !!!!
I tried it and it is faster (normal) but I rolled over 3 times in that qualy so I whent back to glued ones (2 sec. on an ETS will mean 20-30places in ranking so constant drive is indispensable).

Ivan and Madsen raced completely without glued edges (they are better drivers than I lol) and that's also why they set the fastet laptimes for the stock class. In the Finals they where both unlucky .. Ivan got hitted in every final (it's a hard racing class) and Madsen loved to roll over the dots but they are very nice and helpful so when you see them or me on a race .. just come over and say hello

another interesting point for some of you are the maintenance of the car...
i checked mine yesterday and I can say that after 4days of hard racing, everything is like new (driveshafts, gears etc) some pics attached.

so i think i stoled enough of your time ...
see you on the track
kind regards

Tom
p.s
thx Ivan for the great weekend
thx Oleg for the car and good/fast service
Thanks Tom. Did Ivan run the top deck cuts as shown in the setup sheet? Could not tell from the pictures from RedRC but it didnt look as cut up as the setup sheet indicates that all of the ribs are cut.
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Old 11-02-2011, 06:35 AM   #741
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Looks like all the cuts outs are on Ivan's car to me! Just had a look.
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Old 11-02-2011, 06:47 AM   #742
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Hy,

Yes there where all ribs cutted (in modified and stock) and also the 4 screws under the chassis in the rear removed .

regards Tom
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Old 11-02-2011, 07:27 AM   #743
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Hi all,

Going to start the build this evening

Just want to check a couple of things about the Oil in the Gear Diff.

Firstly from Ivans set up it just says Gear Diff oil "B" - What does this mean ??

Secondly is it really just 100Wt Oil being used in the gear diff as in the Tamiya 417 I raced previously I am sure most people were using around 1000Wt.

Let me know cheers guys

Andy
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Old 11-02-2011, 07:29 AM   #744
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I have assumed during design of A700 that min. flex layout ( all screws in the chassis + virgin top deck) is only for foam tires on carpet.
The main idea is to use one chassis plate for all conditions and to manipulate with upper decks and screws only for further flex increase step by step.
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Old 11-02-2011, 07:36 AM   #745
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Originally Posted by Subliminal View Post
...

Firstly from Ivans set up it just says Gear Diff oil "B" - What does this mean ??...

Andy
It is the B-oil from Yokomo diff oil set
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Old 11-02-2011, 07:42 AM   #746
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thanks Oleg, your replies are alway very helpful and allow us to understand the car better

Anyone know what weight the Yokomo B oil is the equivalent to as I struggle to get Yokomo parts locally. I can get most weights of Oil in various brands or can get the Reinhard A or B Gear diff oil.

Thanks
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Old 11-02-2011, 07:47 AM   #747
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Hy,

in Diff oils you can also use the A,B,C,D, oils like much more or from Marc Rheinards brand MR33. No one exactly know the thickness of those oils but
B is around 800.

800-1000 is also a really good starting point cause most of the drivers are using these.

I was using 800 oil last weekend

regards Tom
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Old 11-02-2011, 07:57 AM   #748
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oleg Babich View Post
It is the B-oil from Yokomo diff oil set
I thought they were in Dot's:

Dot 1 #650
Dot 2 #800
Dot 3 #1000
Dot 4 #1200
Dot 5 #1600
Dot 6 #2100
Dot 7 #3000
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Old 11-02-2011, 08:59 AM   #749
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Originally Posted by geeunit1014 View Post
You got one? Nice, imma have to drool over it when you get it to MRH....
Yeppers!! Playing with my 12th scales have been loads of fun but I'm itching to race TC again. Hopefully, Mark will bring his out to MRH soon so we can both drool over it!!
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Old 11-02-2011, 09:32 AM   #750
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Originally Posted by defcone View Post
I thought they were in Dot's:

Dot 1 #650
Dot 2 #800
Dot 3 #1000
Dot 4 #1200
Dot 5 #1600
Dot 6 #2100
Dot 7 #3000
You are right.

Ivan's B - oil is from MR33 set.

Last edited by Oleg Babich; 11-02-2011 at 09:52 AM.
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