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Old 09-08-2014, 04:52 AM   #7051
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I'm currently using AM24 but I would switch to A700-BLS if it can be mounted on the centered position when using AM33-5...

I've just tried AM24 on the non-centered position and it looks so far away from the chassis =/
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Old 09-08-2014, 05:47 AM   #7052
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Originally Posted by hanulec View Post
Congrats on the win.

Oleg has a different ball option - st24 and st24l - that are designed to work with a new ball end p13-4. These balls are 0.7mm lower than the at21 balls.

Did your friend have problem with the p13 ball ends or the p01/p02? It wasn't clear to me, sorry.

Another option is to change to TOP racing balls and ball ends. The balls are about the same height. I've been racing these in my Awesomatix since March 2013 --- but have started to slowly switch to the new p13-4 and st24 or ST24L
thanks for your reply, he had a problem with p13 ball ends(Black), and I had a problem with p13(dunno the exact code, it is closed and gray color one)

so in this case we should get full set of p13-4 with st24l(on top side all round ?) and also s24 for toe links ?
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Old 09-08-2014, 08:56 AM   #7053
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oleg Babich View Post
C21-2, AM49-3 and AM33-5 info:

AM33-5 long stiffener provides the maximal longitudinal stiffness of chassis.
Long stiffener doesn't reduce the torsional flex in case of using only one or two center screws.
So the the flex will be the same as with short stiffener that is screwed by the same one-two center screws.
But AM33-5 increases the longitudinal stiffness noticeable ( it prevents the chassis against longitudinal bending). This is the main advantage of AM33-5 especially for such soft chassis as C01AL-S.
Maximum longitudinal stiffness combined with an adjustable torsional flex provided by the alu stiffener is a key of our latest chassis flex control method.

AM49-3 is screwed directly to AM33-5 long stiffener.
C21-2 is a bit stiffer version of C21 with 3,8mm center hole instead of 6mm hole. So you have to use ST09 collar inside of the center hole of top deck instead of 6mm shims.
C21-2 and AM33-5 have the additional holes for 4 positions of AM49-3.
These new parts meant only for asphalt racing only? What about using these for carpet mod and or carpet 17.5 blinky?

Any thoughts are appreciated.

Regards,
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Old 09-08-2014, 11:05 AM   #7054
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These new parts meant only for asphalt racing only? What about using these for carpet mod and or carpet 17.5 blinky?

Any thoughts are appreciated.

Regards,
These parts are the future for alloy chassis.
Will be trying them in anger for stock in 1-2 weeks.

Ran soft alloy chassis on carpet Saturday for one pack. It has promise ... But I'm awaiting more parts to test with my non tc worlds car.
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Old 09-08-2014, 11:35 AM   #7055
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I'm heading down to The Gate for the Warm-up carpet race to knock the rust off with a soft alloy chassis on the Evo.

I will get report back with progress over the weekend.

Mike Slaughter
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Old 09-08-2014, 11:39 AM   #7056
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G-rem View Post
I'm currently using AM24 but I would switch to A700-BLS if it can be mounted on the centered position when using AM33-5...

I've just tried AM24 on the non-centered position and it looks so far away from the chassis =/
The centered position of our servo is possible with AM33-5.

For heavier modern LiPo batteries the non-centered position of servo can be a good solution for better left-to-right weight balancing.
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Old 09-08-2014, 11:54 AM   #7057
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Originally Posted by Oleg Babich View Post
The centered position of our servo is possible with AM33-5.

For heavier modern LiPo batteries the non-centered position of servo can be a good solution for better left-to-right weight balancing.
With this comment in mind, what size spur gear should one run for stock (17.5), for optimal motor position? I was geared at 4.0FDR on my old belt driven TC, can I run a bit lower with this car, say 3.8FDR?

Cheers
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Old 09-08-2014, 12:35 PM   #7058
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Originally Posted by SLOWINSLOWOUT View Post
With this comment in mind, what size spur gear should one run for stock (17.5), for optimal motor position? I was geared at 4.0FDR on my old belt driven TC, can I run a bit lower with this car, say 3.8FDR?

Cheers
For 17.5 i would suggest 80 spur. This will allow you to also run 13.5 if you want. For gearing most run between 3.5 and 3.8 depending on track size and driving skill.
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Old 09-08-2014, 12:40 PM   #7059
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17.5- 78t to 82t
13.5- 84t to 88t
Mod- 96t or 72t 48p
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Old 09-08-2014, 12:41 PM   #7060
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17.5- 78t to 82t
13.5- 84t to 88t
Mod- 96t or 72t 48p
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Old 09-08-2014, 12:49 PM   #7061
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SLOWINSLOWOUT View Post
With this comment in mind, what size spur gear should one run for stock (17.5), for optimal motor position? I was geared at 4.0FDR on my old belt driven TC, can I run a bit lower with this car, say 3.8FDR?

Cheers
I think that the biggest possible spur gear is preferable.

3.8FDR instead of 4.0FDR is not so evident for me as the motor on our car needs the additional measures against overheating due to the worst access for cooling air.
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Old 09-08-2014, 01:21 PM   #7062
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hanulec View Post
17.5- 78t to 82t
13.5- 84t to 88t
Mod- 96t or 72t 48p
What spur.pinion are YOU running with the 17.5 powers Actinium?
Thank you
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Old 09-08-2014, 02:44 PM   #7063
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What spur.pinion are YOU running with the 17.5 powers Actinium?
Thank you
I run 78t. Running bigger might make more sense as Oleg says.
43 or 44 pinion so far.

WTF 30mm fan and WTF mad max fan mount.
Fan wired directly to ESC (important).
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Old 09-08-2014, 06:58 PM   #7064
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Thanks for the replies.

Question about the diff. I have 3 GD1 diff.'s, one with metal gear, two pinion, the other two have plastic gears, four pinion. I was planning on filling each with different wt. oil for quick tuning. How does the metal gears affect the feel of the diff given the same wt. oil? Also, what is the size of the sealing o-ring on the housing(large) need one, and hoping could source locally.

Cheers
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Old 09-08-2014, 08:39 PM   #7065
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Originally Posted by SLOWINSLOWOUT View Post
Thanks for the replies.

Question about the diff. I have 3 GD1 diff.'s, one with metal gear, two pinion, the other two have plastic gears, four pinion. I was planning on filling each with different wt. oil for quick tuning. How does the metal gears affect the feel of the diff given the same wt. oil? Also, what is the size of the sealing o-ring on the housing(large) need one, and hoping could source locally.

Cheers
Metal vs plastic -- more fwd bite/less rotation

2 metal w/ 5k is in between 4 gear with 2k or 3k.
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