Oleg Babich

We have changed the designation of ST24-2 to ST24/2.
The similar way will be used for designation of the different packaging, for example B74RS/3 and SB25x8/2.

The pictures of new parts for FFG1.1 :

G-rem

iTrader: (2)

Thank you very much for the pictures Oleg, I'll order them very soon
The fact that the bearing is now "trapped" in AM54-1 doesn't restrain the movements of the FFG?

And, as I can see, there is now only three possibilities to set-up the position of the upper arm in stead of four for the previous version of the parts, why a such decision? Did you realize with the team that the extra short link were no use (the inner position on AM42 and AM54)?

Thanks again for your support,
Best regards,
G-rem

G-rem

iTrader: (2)

In addition to my previous questions, I was wondering what chassis set-up will work the best for a big low/mid grip on-road track (1:8 scale style) for an A700 Evo (FFG kit included) with a 5.5t motor and boost:

-C01L without C21
-C01L + C21
-C01AL without C21
-C01AL + C21
-Raceberry (2.1mm) + C21

As there are a lot of possibilities, I'm a bit lost and unfortunately can't try all of them...

Thanks for answering,
Best regards,
G-rem

Manu_05'

C01AL without C21 is a really good basic start. Very stable and easy to drive.

C01L is harder to drive with a little bit more steering than with the alloy chassis.

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

I'd recommend starting with the kit chassis - c01l.

G-rem

iTrader: (2)

Thanks all for your answers, can't wait to try on the track

Awesoman

Funny, as for me a Raceberry chassis w/o topdeck works the best

Durbin

Yeah,nice to know about it,its really an awesome design car and very better to know about that actually its my passion to know about the automotive field and i am very interested in cars from my childhood,its a formula car an better modification are done in it by the company.

G-rem

iTrader: (2)

Without top deck??
Even with a mod motor?

Awesoman

It worked best with a 10.5 motor. For mod it could indeed be better to fit a topdeck

Jamison R

iTrader: (66)

Ok so im about to purchase a new evo kit. Is the v2 diff a must have? This kit is already pretty expensive and when considering new diff, raceberry chassis into expense its on the edge of being just plain ignorant to spend so much money. I really want to buy this car. But what I am hearing is the stock diff is not that good. Someone please help justify the purchase with or without the v2 diff.

Wazza22

iTrader: (29)

Hi
I have an original A700 with the original gear diff running plastic gears. I have successfully been running with a 5.5T in mod for 6 months now with no problem.

You need to add extra shims to behind the large gears and don't over fill the diff and you won't have any problem.

Cheers

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

I listed a set of parts in my cars last weekend. The stock Evo kit is really good in 17.5/13.5. Depending upon setup parts like am19, at21s, am06m will yield much more performance than a gd2. The gd1 now comes with metal gears so there is extreme durability.

Getting the p20 and hard bumper are highly recommended.

oeoeo327

iTrader: (75)

Do you plan on running Spec classes or mod TC? If you're running the lower powered spec classes on a track with good traction, the stock chassis might be the way to go instead of the Raceberry. I run 17.5 with my A700EXL using a Raceberry chassis, and found that I had to use an uncut topdeck to control chassis flex.

The stock GD1 differential works very well. Mine's fitted with metal gears, and the only time I open it is to change diff oil. No leaks, and hardly any wear to speak of to date.

MikeXray

iTrader: (73)

Hey Barry, how did the car handle with too much flex, was it pushy or loose, or just stalling in the corners?