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Old 05-06-2014, 12:11 PM   #6346
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Oleg, do you use any kind of dyno to make sure all the shocks are the same from the factory?
Yes, we check every damper with "dyno".

Very important: please check the tightening of SB25 screws on the back plate of the dampers regularly.
Damper switches to asymmetric mode in case of this screw is not tightened enough and rotates together with the output damper's shaft.
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Old 05-06-2014, 12:45 PM   #6347
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I'm not going to be doing much racing for a while, twin girls on the way in 6 weeks. So, I'm going to let one of my cars go instead of having it collect dust. PM me if interested.
Congrats and Condolences! Might as well start training for sleep deprivation now.
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Old 05-10-2014, 04:17 PM   #6348
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Default Clarifications needed for Kyle's Mod setup

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Anyone happen to know te spring type that Kyle used for his mod setup?

Also, if I understand the setup sheet correctly, there is only one screw holding the rear gearbox to the chassis?

Would this mod setup work with a 4.5 motor (Kyle used a 7.5) at a track like Port Jervis NY?

Please confirm.

Thanks!
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Old 05-10-2014, 07:01 PM   #6349
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Originally Posted by cosmokitten View Post
Anyone happen to know te spring type that Kyle used for his mod setup?

Also, if I understand the setup sheet correctly, there is only one screw holding the rear gearbox to the chassis?

Would this mod setup work with a 4.5 motor (Kyle used a 7.5) at a track like Port Jervis NY?

Please confirm.

Thanks!

Soft springs as per the setup sheet, and look like all the screws are in except the 2 outer motor mount ones. Would see why that wouldnt work with a 4.5, im going to run it with a 5.0
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Old 05-10-2014, 08:05 PM   #6350
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Soft springs as per the setup sheet, and look like all the screws are in except the 2 outer motor mount ones. Would see why that wouldnt work with a 4.5, im going to run it with a 5.0
Thanks Mr.Canadian!

I'm wondering whether we're looking at the same setup sheet? The last one on awesomatixusa website. Nothing is chosen for the spring type and the last 4 holes on the chassis are not colored red, thus no screws? and all motor mount holes are colored red, meaning all 4 screws used.

Just wanted to make sure that I am indeed looking at the latest and greatest sheet.

Appreciate, thanks!

Are you planning on going to Port Jervis as well? If so, we would be the Canadian contingent...
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Old 05-11-2014, 01:16 PM   #6351
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cosmokitten - you'll find a TON of Awesomatix cars down at Jackson RC in Jackson, NJ (about 110m south of port jervis). i hear there is an all electric race being planned there .. so you'll probably see a few more Awesomatix cars at that upcoming event.
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Old 05-11-2014, 03:07 PM   #6352
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Has there been any talk about making the AM15-1 out of carbonfiber instead of aluminum or as an option?
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Old 05-11-2014, 03:30 PM   #6353
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Has there been any talk about making the AM15-1 out of carbonfiber instead of aluminum or as an option?
i think you mean the AM05 (rear body mount -- mustache shape)
the cars previously had carbon rear body mounts but they were fragile -- didn't bend, just broke.
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Old 05-11-2014, 04:54 PM   #6354
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Originally Posted by hanulec View Post
cosmokitten - you'll find a TON of Awesomatix cars down at Jackson RC in Jackson, NJ (about 110m south of port jervis). i hear there is an all electric race being planned there .. so you'll probably see a few more Awesomatix cars at that upcoming event.
Thanks Hanulec! Will look into it...

I have a question when using P06-1 on raceberry chassis. P06-1 is obviously too high (long) for the slim raceberry chassis. What are racers doing about this?
Myself, I just left the extra length on top of the chassis (P06-1 is sticking out on top), does anybody see any issues with this?

When using P06-1 is alu chassis, is it still recommended to glue it on? or perhaps the new divot will suffice to keep it in place?

Appreciate, thanks!
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Old 05-11-2014, 05:05 PM   #6355
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Originally Posted by cosmokitten View Post
Thanks Hanulec! Will look into it...

I have a question when using P06-1 on raceberry chassis. P06-1 is obviously too high (long) for the slim raceberry chassis. What are racers doing about this?
Myself, I just left the extra length on top of the chassis (P06-1 is sticking out on top), does anybody see any issues with this?

When using P06-1 is alu chassis, is it still recommended to glue it on? or perhaps the new divot will suffice to keep it in place?

Appreciate, thanks!
the P06 / P06-1 is too long for both the C01AL and Raceberry. If you insert the P06 from the top of the chassis, then just cut off the excess at the bottom.

P06 and P06-1 both require glue so they don't move up/down and change your droop.
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Old 05-11-2014, 09:19 PM   #6356
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Any ETA on the backordered Raceberry's from awesomatix USA?
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Old 05-12-2014, 05:14 AM   #6357
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Any ETA on the backordered Raceberry's from awesomatix USA?
Product was shipped day before the ETS race. Fingers crossed -- any day now.
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Old 05-12-2014, 08:00 AM   #6358
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Product was shipped day before the ETS race. Fingers crossed -- any day now.
Awesome, thanks
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Old 05-12-2014, 10:47 AM   #6359
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hanulec: Please import the new digital caster gauge they showed at ETS
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Old 05-12-2014, 10:54 AM   #6360
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hanulec: Please import the new digital caster gauge they showed at ETS
That is a huge waste of time and money IMO. First and foremost your pit table will have to be perfectly level.

Second. That things looks heavy and large. When screwed into the steering it will be hanging off the backside and due to the weight will most def be twisting the whole setup downwards creating extra caster angle.

The doodles are fine IMO. If your caster is off by .2 believe me you wont notice.

Unless of course spending unnecessary money is something you are looking to do then by all means. Buy it.
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