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Old 05-04-2014, 06:48 PM   #6331
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Originally Posted by hanulec View Post
Some gears are too hard. The Kimbrough are soft. My xenon have lasted for an entire season. I really like the RW 64p gears vs xray...
I sent Larry a couple of the Leespeed 64P gears but I sent him the wrong sizes for Mod. If he hasnt given those away grab them and let me know what you think of them.

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Old 05-04-2014, 07:25 PM   #6332
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I ordered a couple of the leespeed spurs to try with mod. We shall see.
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Old 05-04-2014, 07:40 PM   #6333
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I always run 64p RW spurs, never had an issue in 17.5 or mod. I find it helps to use cap head screws so you can use a 2.5mm hex driver so you can really crank down on them
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Old 05-04-2014, 07:52 PM   #6334
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I always run 64p RW spurs, never had an issue in 17.5 or mod. I find it helps to use cap head screws so you can use a 2.5mm hex driver so you can really crank down on them
I'm using the lundsford fatboy screws, and using the Washer on the top screw.
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Old 05-05-2014, 06:11 PM   #6335
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Anyone running the bitty design nardo body in 17.5? If so, how do you have it mounted... centered or a few mm forward or rearward?

Thanks.
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Old 05-05-2014, 06:14 PM   #6336
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Anyone running the bitty design nardo body in 17.5? If so, how do you have it mounted... centered or a few mm forward or rearward?

Thanks.
i'd say its more of a mod body..
you must run the nardo straight on.
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Old 05-05-2014, 06:30 PM   #6337
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Originally Posted by hanulec View Post
i'd say its more of a mod body..
you must run the nardo straight on.
Thank you Michael. Gonna try it out Saturday..
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Old 05-05-2014, 07:30 PM   #6338
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Originally Posted by geeunit1014 View Post
I always run 64p RW spurs, never had an issue in 17.5 or mod. I find it helps to use cap head screws so you can use a 2.5mm hex driver so you can really crank down on them
+1 - I'm a big fan of this trick. Never lost a spur gear because the motor moved after switching to the cap-head screws.
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Old 05-06-2014, 08:56 AM   #6339
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I cant wait to run my cars this weekend. Jackson here i come. I hope to be as fast as all the other Awesomatix out there.
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Old 05-06-2014, 09:56 AM   #6340
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Here's what Kyle and I learned this weekend at our MHOR outdoor on-road opener.
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...type=1&theater

We both started with what were very good high traction carpet setups, Kyle Mod, Me 13.5. The track was prepped with a VHT equivalent so traction was good, I would say medium. We ran Team Powers 34 tires for racing and practiced with Sweep EVO-R which felt very much the same.

Major changes that made the cars several tenths faster and easier to drive over carpet setup. We stiffened springs rates by 2-3 mm on the SPR03, raised roll centers front and rear (I did this via spacers under the arms), removed front and rear sway-bars. We discovered this as well at the Tamiya track a few weeks ago but not until practice after racing was over.

Kyle's Mod car was very good, several tenths faster on average than anyone else on the track. He's running an Evo with Alu chassis and short center brace. We also used Tires warmers @ 150F for 5-7 min with Tire Tweak. This definitely made a difference, I tried running without warmers and the car was harder to drive and several tenths off pace. Track temp, which for some reason i never measured, i would guess around ~125F, air temp was around 85F.

The CO Reedy attendees are planning another all day practice session on the 18th so hopefully we'll have more to report than. Overall if your coming from carpet to asphalt try raising your roll center's and stiffening the suspension if sticking with the L and Alu chassis. With the Raceberry chassis you can probably stay with a softer suspension and lower roll center due to chassis flex but i would try stiffer to see what happens.
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Old 05-06-2014, 10:44 AM   #6341
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Try warmers for 30m 160f. Even better... I just don't have the patience to do so. In the "long run" I'm shocked to hear your seeing faster lap times due to warmers. Generally hey help the first 1m.

Last year a "low and soft" setup was key for me in stock/super stock. I'm going to try a "high and stiff" style. No bars reminds me of the good ole days.
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Old 05-06-2014, 11:26 AM   #6342
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Originally Posted by bkspeedo View Post
...
We stiffened springs rates by 2-3 mm on the SPR03, raised roll centers front and rear (I did this via spacers under the arms), removed front and rear sway-bars....
Brent, what about the roll centers raising by means of the upper inner balls drop instead of the spacers under arms?
Please try this. Some benefits are possible.
Please use our old rules also:
The adding of 1mm arm spacers = removing of 2,75mm upper balls spacers.
The adding of the identical shims simultaneously under inner and outer upper balls keeps the roll center on the same level.
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Old 05-06-2014, 11:58 AM   #6343
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I'm not going to be doing much racing for a while, twin girls on the way in 6 weeks. So, I'm going to let one of my cars go instead of having it collect dust. PM me if interested.
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Old 05-06-2014, 11:58 AM   #6344
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Oleg, do you use any kind of dyno to make sure all the shocks are the same from the factory?
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Old 05-06-2014, 12:07 PM   #6345
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oleg Babich View Post
Brent, what about the roll centers raising by means of the upper inner balls drop instead of the spacers under arms?
Please try this. Some benefits are possible.
Please use our old rules also:
The adding of 1mm arm spacers = removing of 2,75mm upper balls spacers.
The adding of the identical shims simultaneously under inner and outer upper balls keeps the roll center on the same level.
We will definitely give that a try on our next asphalt practice day. I've done this on carpet with good results. I usually feel moving the lower arm produces more effect and there's very little Camber gain to deal with as long as the upper ball is moved the same amount.

What i'm going after with these changes is keeping the car flatter which should produce more lateral grip, hence the removal of the sway-bars. Since the chassis we're using don't flex much i'm trying to keep the front and rear roll differences closer to the same so the rear doesn't want to break loose as easy if the driver over-steers the car slightly which is the problem Kyle and I were having at the Tamiya track a few weeks ago. With a softer chassis i think the rear of the car has more of a chance to stay flat based on what the front is doing preventing the rear from breaking loose if the driver slightly over-steers the car. I may be way off base but it seems logical.

If you'd like me to send you our carpet setups and what we we've done so far for asphalt so you can see the differences to make suggestions let me know. Any help would be greatly appreciated, this is our first time running the car on asphalt.
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