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Old 04-08-2014, 09:14 AM   #6091
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Question within a question, does the FFG make your roll center dynamic? the inner upper links move with the twisting of the diff, and I have to think that even if it's only say a 1mm of travel, its contributing to the handling characteristics.
It looks to me like the camber links still mount to the bulkhead, not to the FFG. Unless the pictures are deceiving.
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Old 04-08-2014, 09:21 AM   #6092
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It looks to me like the camber links still mount to the bulkhead, not to the FFG. Unless the pictures are deceiving.
Actually looking at JD's video you're right, I feel like I was looking at a car that was using AM19s and the links were connected there..
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Old 04-08-2014, 09:22 AM   #6093
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Camber links are still mounted to the bulkhead attached to the chassis, Only the diff and diff carrier rotate and move in the car.
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Old 04-08-2014, 10:02 AM   #6094
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There are quite a few things that aren't equal from full to 1/10th scale racing. Can you imagine a real car running a spool, or going 700 mph (see Worlds warm-up thread)?

Very minimal flex is probably ideal in an ideal world. The reality is that track conditions change very quickly, and quite often a tire change isn't possible, like it is in full scale racing. Given just those two issues a wider setup window is desirable, and flex in the chassis provides just that. The car will probably never be as fast as it /could/ be with a stiff chassis, but it'll probably be as fast or faster most of the time.
I do agree to some extent. However I know from extensive testing on medium to high grip carpet a stiffer chassis is better. I've seen all the flexible chassis cars fail in high grip unless in the hands of a pro driver, even than i think a stiffer chassis car would make them faster. For some reason the industry has gone the direction of soft chassis and I think they've gone to far. I would like to see people like Rheinard or Volker test there cars with different stiffness chassis on a high grip asphalt track to see what they feel is better. Maybe they have and there cars are optimal but i think most manufactures put together a car and say here test it and find a fast setup, but won't change it based on recommendations. RC is a very trendy industry, many will follow with no apparent testing other than we need to do it as well. Good example of late is the Alu chassis. Oleg on the other hand listens and comes out with new parts for testing. The cool thing is he makes them available to everyone that wants to try it.

Pavement racing is a different animal but if prepared correctly has just as much grip as carpet. Hence a stiffer chassis car would be better. On low grip i think a flexible chassis car has a large setup window so the average driver can be off but still be fast.

I'm really looking forward to our outdoor season so i can start experimenting with the A700 on low grip asphalt. For Reedy race this year I'll be starting with a setup developed for medium to high grip carpet and i have a feel it will be quite good.
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Old 04-09-2014, 03:13 AM   #6095
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So after the Worlds Warm Up is history, it would be nice to here what Freddy, Josh or even Oleg if he was there have to tell us about the setup of the car.
Why not publish the Setup Sheet's?
I know there was none of them in the A main but that's not a reason to keep them secret
Maybe it will be a good starting point for all the racers starting the outdoor season.
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Old 04-09-2014, 03:18 AM   #6096
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Default Question on SCX2x6 and Spring Rate Screw

Hi

Was wondering if the SCX2X6 and Spring Rate Screw (SRS) in Step 9 of the build are the same ?

Also, what do most use to prevent AT21 from turning when installing the countersunk screw with no spacer ? As the chassis is recessed, there isn't much left of the hex on the AT21 to grip on to. The manual indicates the use of SF3X8 screw for this, but it seems that this screw is much too long.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 04-09-2014, 06:19 AM   #6097
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Originally Posted by toroloco View Post
So after the Worlds Warm Up is history, it would be nice to here what Freddy, Josh or even Oleg if he was there have to tell us about the setup of the car.
Why not publish the Setup Sheet's?
I know there was none of them in the A main but that's not a reason to keep them secret
Maybe it will be a good starting point for all the racers starting the outdoor season.
Not a secret, The guys might still be enjoying Florida! Even though none were in the Mod A-main, Freddy finishing 2nd in the B is an awesome feet given the massive amount of talent present. Give it a few day and I'm sure we will see set-ups soon.

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Old 04-09-2014, 10:53 AM   #6098
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HoJo View Post
Hi

Was wondering if the SCX2X6 and Spring Rate Screw (SRS) in Step 9 of the build are the same ?

Also, what do most use to prevent AT21 from turning when installing the countersunk screw with no spacer ? As the chassis is recessed, there isn't much left of the hex on the AT21 to grip on to. The manual indicates the use of SF3X8 screw for this, but it seems that this screw is much too long.

Thanks in advance.
The 3x8 is too long if you aren't using a spacer under the AT21. Use a 3x6 or shorter. The 3x8 will hit the top of the ball before it can fully seat.
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Old 04-09-2014, 11:56 AM   #6099
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HoJo View Post
Hi

Was wondering if the SCX2X6 and Spring Rate Screw (SRS) in Step 9 of the build are the same ?

Also, what do most use to prevent AT21 from turning when installing the countersunk screw with no spacer ? As the chassis is recessed, there isn't much left of the hex on the AT21 to grip on to. The manual indicates the use of SF3X8 screw for this, but it seems that this screw is much too long.

Thanks in advance.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Clegg View Post
The 3x8 is too long if you aren't using a spacer under the AT21. Use a 3x6 or shorter. The 3x8 will hit the top of the ball before it can fully seat.
I used 3X5 screws. I also score the carbon with an exacto so the metal has some type of friction. If the surface is smooth it just wants to spin.
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Old 04-09-2014, 04:25 PM   #6100
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Default Gd2

Metal gears or Xray composite gears? What should I buy and why? Thanks!
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Old 04-09-2014, 04:28 PM   #6101
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I dont post a lot on here, but just wanted to say how amazing this car is. I am running the L and its the best TC I have ever ran. Local fast guy is Kyle Bergrstrom, he beat my TQ by .7 and beat me by 4 sec in the main last weekend. He is running the FFG and the aluminum chassis. Needless to say I spend my free time looking for change on the street so I can save up enough order them LOL. Getting ready for Reedy next month, hope to have it by then! There is 5 people running awesomatix at my local track, just nice to see the support from local fast people and everyone here on the threads for tips and tricks... thanks to everyone who posts, so it gives me an idea on what to change on the car!
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Old 04-09-2014, 06:31 PM   #6102
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Metal gears or Xray composite gears? What should I buy and why? Thanks!
from Freddy in January--

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Originally Posted by FreddySudhoff View Post
Morning guys,

They will only fit into the GD2! Please note this.

They work fine and the small difference compared with the plastic gears is the weight.
The car is a little bit easier to drive but has also less on power steering. It's another good setup thing to play with.
Plastic gears: more steering and little less rear traction
Metall gears: less steering, very easy to drive

I recommend to use #2000-#3000 oil inside.
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Old 04-10-2014, 03:59 AM   #6103
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New spool with updated outdrives and new steering blocks: same roll center geometry as AM06S but narrower for low-grip conditions!

http://www.redrc.net/2014/04/updated...ks/#more-79621
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Old 04-10-2014, 07:54 AM   #6104
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And how about the Flexible Caster Block (FCB) System? The AWESOMENESS of Awesomatix won't stop. Can't wait for this stuff.

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Old 04-11-2014, 07:24 AM   #6105
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I'm having trouble eliminating free play from the right rear wishbone when the car is on the car stand. In the past it's been a case of reset spring, damping, ride height and droop and it's gone but whatever I do I can't seem to get rid of it.

I've done the following:

Reset spring, damping, ride height and droop
Checked chassis is flat and not tweaked - it is flat
Checked rear ARB is balanced - it is balanced
Checked weight is balanced left to right - it is balanced
Replaced rear springs
Replaced rear SPR02

Not sure what else I can do beyond replacing the rear shocks entirely? If anyone has suggestions I'd be glad to hear them =]
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