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Old 04-02-2014, 10:33 PM   #6076
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So a used kit I just received, has a set of the old A700 dampers. How do they compare to the new ones (R6)? they look nice.

Also what amount of oil leaking from R6 dampers is normal and acceptable?
The oil that "leaks" from the dampers is from the bearing inside. The dampers themselves are sealed. I have been running mine for a year now and I am using the original dampers. I would think if a damper was to leak it would be from damage.
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Old 04-02-2014, 11:30 PM   #6077
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So I tried the 'bearing mod' on the FFG system which was previously shared here. All I can say is, it works. It is better, smoother and glides like a butter now.

I used the ST08, B74RS and 1mm shim, enough to fit within the recessed slot.




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Old 04-03-2014, 05:11 AM   #6078
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Thanks for listing the parts you used and pics. I'll be putting that on my cars before we go outdoors in a few weeks.
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Old 04-03-2014, 01:06 PM   #6079
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clegg View Post
So a used kit I just received, has a set of the old A700 dampers. How do they compare to the new ones (R6)? they look nice.

Also what amount of oil leaking from R6 dampers is normal and acceptable?
The old dampers were a little stiffer than the 6's, although they feel very similar.

Oleg has said the new dampers come over-filled from the factory, so they will leak a little when new, and then should stop after some time. This has been my experience.
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Old 04-03-2014, 06:30 PM   #6080
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Here's an excel spreadsheet i created that i believe has what your looking for. The "SPR01S Chart" tab is a table your describing. Better yet copy this Excel doc to your phone and use it live, you can type in your suspension settings and have it calculate the values instantly. You can also type in the swaybar stiffness and get a full suspension stiffness value.
AWESOME Brent. Thx. This is exactly what I was looking for and more!!! Looking forward to running with you guys at the MHIC next week!!!! See you then!

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Old 04-04-2014, 10:16 AM   #6081
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So after rebuilding the used A700 I purchased with the "leaky" dampers. 3 of the 4 seem fine, but one of the dampers has a fraction of the dampening that the others do.

because this had has signs of being run quite a bit, I am pondering just replacing all 4 dampers with new ones, because I would imagine a single new damper wont match up with 3 older used dampers over time.

Anyone else seen or heard of a damper going bad like this?
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Old 04-04-2014, 02:52 PM   #6082
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Looks like Freddy's sitting mid pack at the worlds warmup, a lot of fast guys within a few sec of each other, then there is Volker
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Old 04-06-2014, 06:15 PM   #6083
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What would be the effect of the screws in the back of the dampers being loose in symetric mode? I had an odd handling problem this weekend and I found the screw in the back of the rear left damper had backed off a little. Not being familiar with the inner workings of the damper what would this do? How tight should these screws be?
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Old 04-06-2014, 07:01 PM   #6084
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how far did it back off ?
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Awesomatix EP Touring Car-page37ofthemanual.png  
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Old 04-07-2014, 07:15 AM   #6085
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how far did it back off ?
About 3mm, I guess that would be enough to activate asymmetric mode.
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Old 04-07-2014, 03:53 PM   #6086
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I don't often wright on forums, but in this case i wanted to make an exception, by posting my personal experience with the aluminium chassis on asphalt. I took in consideration various parameters; different bodies, tire additives, tires, track temperatures etc. The focus was to find good and bad aspects of this innovative material on EP touring cars. After day' s of practice, the final set up whas to be tested in the first club race against the opposition. From the beginning, during qualifing heats at 11C, the car was fast and easy to drive. When temperature increased to 22 during finals, i reduced Ackermann and increased PWM by one point, always keeping motor temperature under control, which never exceede 80C. I noticed various cars having heat issues with traditional carbon chassis. Our track never builds up high grip conditions during races, but in this occasion i felt the car so well that i never made a driving mistake during the entire day.
Having said this, my feddback is positive for both the chassis and the EVO option, also tried for the first time on asphalt.

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Old 04-08-2014, 06:59 AM   #6087
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Very interesting... hadn't occurred to me to run the aluminum chassis on asphalt, mainly because I want to keep it nice and scuff-free for carpet season. Do you think similar results could be obtained by using a thinner carbon (i.e. the Raceberry) chassis?

We'll be switching over to outdoor/asphalt in about a month here in the upper midwest USA and I'm looking forward to getting off the carpet and running outside. I was just planning on putting the stock carbon EVO chassis back on the car. Hopefully the folks in Jackson NJ (who should be hitting their outdoor track any day now) can post some results and feedback, especially related to either the aluminum or Raceberry chassis testing!
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Old 04-08-2014, 08:35 AM   #6088
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Received some interesting info this morning.

Carbon chassis with top deck has more torsional twist than Alu. So i would expect on low traction the Carbon chassis should be better. However when looking at full scale race car chassis design web sites all say a very stiff chassis is best.

"If the chassis twists when a tire hits a bump, it acts like part of the suspension, meaning that tuning the suspension is difficult or impossible. Ideally, the chassis should be ultra-rigid, and the suspension compliant. It is important to ensure that the entire chassis supports the loads expected, and does so with very little flex"

From this info i would think the C01AL-H chassis with a top deck would be best on any surface. Your goal would than be to adjust the suspension for the tires and traction. So things like; Roll Center, dampening, spring stiffness, ackerman, link lengths etc.
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Old 04-08-2014, 08:53 AM   #6089
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkspeedo View Post
Received some interesting info this morning.

Carbon chassis with top deck has more torsional twist than Alu. So i would expect on low traction the Carbon chassis should be better. However when looking at full scale race car chassis design web sites all say a very stiff chassis is best.

"If the chassis twists when a tire hits a bump, it acts like part of the suspension, meaning that tuning the suspension is difficult or impossible. Ideally, the chassis should be ultra-rigid, and the suspension compliant. It is important to ensure that the entire chassis supports the loads expected, and does so with very little flex"

From this info i would think the C01AL-H chassis with a top deck would be best on any surface. Your goal would than be to adjust the suspension for the tires and traction. So things like; Roll Center, dampening, spring stiffness, ackerman, link lengths etc.
There are quite a few things that aren't equal from full to 1/10th scale racing. Can you imagine a real car running a spool, or going 700 mph (see Worlds warm-up thread)?

Very minimal flex is probably ideal in an ideal world. The reality is that track conditions change very quickly, and quite often a tire change isn't possible, like it is in full scale racing. Given just those two issues a wider setup window is desirable, and flex in the chassis provides just that. The car will probably never be as fast as it /could/ be with a stiff chassis, but it'll probably be as fast or faster most of the time.
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Old 04-08-2014, 09:10 AM   #6090
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Quote:
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There are quite a few things that aren't equal from full to 1/10th scale racing. Can you imagine a real car running a spool, or going 700 mph (see Worlds warm-up thread)?

Very minimal flex is probably ideal in an ideal world. The reality is that track conditions change very quickly, and quite often a tire change isn't possible, like it is in full scale racing. Given just those two issues a wider setup window is desirable, and flex in the chassis provides just that. The car will probably never be as fast as it /could/ be with a stiff chassis, but it'll probably be as fast or faster most of the time.
It seems to me that the trends in TC have proven that flex is vital to a how our cars work on track these days. If stiffer was better, we would have stuck with the chassis layouts and designs from the foam tire days. Longer topdecks seem to have made a big improvement to consistency, even if outright laps are not much faster. The FFG option with no top deck and alum base plate is interesting, and I think that combo makes more sense.

Question within a question, does the FFG make your roll center dynamic? the inner upper links move with the twisting of the diff, and I have to think that even if it's only say a 1mm of travel, its contributing to the handling characteristics.
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