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Old 02-24-2014, 01:24 PM   #5731
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Originally Posted by samshirley00 View Post
Anyone know where i can get something similar to the dogbone bushings, trying everywhere to find something similar but not getting anywhere, currently using the brass ones as backup but they wear out real quick
ST12.
The material for ST12 is a hardened steel now.
http://shop.awesomatix.com/index.php?productID=709
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Old 02-24-2014, 01:35 PM   #5732
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Due to the increased longitudinal flex of 2mm alum chassis the next cutting (sanding) of the front lower P10 is useful for free movement of FFG:
Does this mod apply to the L chassis as well?
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Old 02-24-2014, 01:35 PM   #5733
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Originally Posted by chrispys View Post
I first put the AM56 on the wrong side but I correct it. When I was in the right side I had to add the 0.5mm shims.
Trouble solved !
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Old 02-24-2014, 02:25 PM   #5734
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Does this mod apply to the L chassis as well?
I don't know if this is just my car but when i rebuilt my L recently i fully assembled the front and rear gear boxes with P10's and found they did rock on the nub so i shaved them down so the bulkhead sat flat.

This actually may have been the cause of some odd tweak issues I've been having. Now my car has the same ride height front to back side to side where before it did not.
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Old 02-24-2014, 02:35 PM   #5735
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I'd say shave the bottom of the p10. I installed them this weekend for the first time since September (outdoors)
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Old 02-24-2014, 03:08 PM   #5736
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Originally Posted by JayBee View Post
Does this mod apply to the L chassis as well?
It depends on the anti friction tape (on AM41) thickness also.
This tape rises the front gearbox over chassis.
No tape (only grease) - you have to mod the lower P10 for L chassis also.
More tape thickness ( 3-4 layers of 3M 810 tape) - you can use P10 without modification even on alum chassis.
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Old 02-24-2014, 04:56 PM   #5737
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I just wanted to report back and say I have a diff cover on my FFG and moving freely. I couldn't get it done right before the ICC so ran without one, I got unlucky and half popped a driveshaft out. So I fitted the diff cover at the track, the only thing I needed to do to get it moving freely was move the front gearbox forwards slightly on the carbon tube. 0.1mm at most I should think. When I rebuild later this week I'll probably put a shim in there for consistency build to build. Nothing like a bit of pressure and a bacon sandwich to get things done right =]
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Old 02-24-2014, 10:01 PM   #5738
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Hello guys,
we would like to inform all the Awesomatix owners that our bodyshells finally arrived to Aweso factory and some team drivers are receiving our latest bodies from Taiwan. Both the Narḍ and MC10 models will be soon availables also on the official Awesomatix Store.

In consideration to the 3rd round of ETS, coming soon at the end of Feb, we suggest to drivers who will attend the race to mount the 2 different shells 2mm forward respect centre line, an hard wing is always reccomended (we are working also on this important accessory).

We know well our bodies and the asphalt surface will maximize the performances of our bodyshells giving to all Awesomatix drivers a very consistent help to improve your laptimes.

If production times will allow to us to respect the deadline of the race, Viljami will also receive the new 2014 version of the Striker-SR body, the "3.0" specs. This body has been developed expecially for asphalt surface, another point in favour of all Awesomatix drivers that will attend international events.
I wanted to post up some info in regards to the BittyDesign shells. Though I’m a design engineer for Awesomatix, I’m no pro driver by any means so this was a pretty cool weekend to say the least. It was our last club race for the season. So far this season I have used mostly a speed 6 body. I have tried LTC-R and Mazda 6 GX as well. I ran the best 3 quals in a row that I have ever driven and made the A for the first time and not even having to try to battle it out from the B bump. For my driving style I can truly say the Bitty shells helped as I have been running the same setup on my A700L for the last 4 events. The guys at Bitty hooked me up with a badass design with my colors so they looked great too.

I used the Nardo and MC10 shells. Both with the Charge and Ultra Charge wing combo’s. After a few hours of practice on Friday night I ended up with the Nardo and the Ultra Charge wing. The MC10 is very fast as well and I ran great lap times with it, but for my driving style the Nardo and Ultra Charge killed it for me. Also to add to this, I got an extra Nardo for a friend of mine as he is Italian and a Bitty fan. He ran the fastest lap time of this season for himself with his TC6.2 chassis. I think the speed 6 is a good body still and is a very comfortable body for anyone at any level to run with, and I even prefer it over the new 6 GX. After this weekend I will probably be running the Nardo for a while. With Ultra Charge wing it has crazy infield track speed. Anyway, hope this sheds some light for anyone of you fellow Awesomatix friends in here that have been thinking about trying the new BittyDesign shells. I’m not saying they’re the end all be all best for everyone’s driving style as I don’t have the years under my belt to say so. But I killed it this past weekend.





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Old 02-25-2014, 02:08 AM   #5739
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Styles, was that on carpet?

-Mike
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Old 02-25-2014, 06:07 AM   #5740
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I've been using the Nardo recently. I really like it and find it adds plenty of steering but the car remains stable. At the ICC we had grip higher than I've ever raced with before so using a Speed 6 was a great way of calming the car down but otherwise I use the Nardo everywhere. Just had one painted in my colours too which I'll use at Rug Racers this weekend.
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Old 02-25-2014, 10:48 AM   #5741
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Styles, was that on carpet?

-Mike

Mike-

Sorry, yes on carpet. Medium grip. Our grip comes up as normal towards the mains on Sat. and the set up on the chassis is Karl Hoffmeister from Halloween Classic 10/27/13.

Also for you Seattle guys, I'm trying to make it up for your race on March 8th to get some time on your track in prep for the Emerald City Classic!
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Last edited by Styles; 02-27-2014 at 07:34 PM.
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Old 02-25-2014, 06:00 PM   #5742
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I think this maybe a long frustrating build when my first step is to dremel on the brand new chassis plate! Ugh!
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Old 02-25-2014, 06:03 PM   #5743
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I think this maybe a long frustrating build when my first step is to dremel on the brand new chassis plate! Ugh!
It's not bub. That's the only time consuming thing there is when building, besides the electronics
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Old 02-25-2014, 06:08 PM   #5744
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Originally Posted by haywood View Post
I think this maybe a long frustrating build when my first step is to dremel on the brand new chassis plate! Ugh!
Did this with a carbon chassis yesterday. I think if you have the 2mm dremmel bit it will be pretty quick and easy. I only had a 3mm rat tail file so masked off the section that went up to 2mm and filed away. Didn't need to make them perfectly half round either, just kept going until I could jam them in. Now they are in nice and solid.

Only other thing that I find takes time is fettling the FFG until it moves sweetly, it just takes practice and patience.

Take your time and enjoy the build, it's well worth it =]
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Old 02-25-2014, 06:14 PM   #5745
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Originally Posted by Quantra View Post
Did this with a carbon chassis yesterday. I think if you have the 2mm dremmel bit it will be pretty quick and easy. I only had a 3mm rat tail file so masked off the section that went up to 2mm and filed away. Didn't need to make them perfectly half round either, just kept going until I could jam them in. Now they are in nice and solid.

Only other thing that I find takes time is fettling the FFG until it moves sweetly, it just takes practice and patience.

Take your time and enjoy the build, it's well worth it =]
How important is the 0,25-0,5mm chamfer?
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