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Old 02-18-2014, 08:40 PM   #5686
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If the gearbox has more travel one way, you might not have it on straight. I would double check first that the tube is straight via where it mounts on the rear bulkhead, and then check that the front gearbox is straight relative to that where the front gearbox bolts on. It should travel about the same both ways, at least mine does

I have not run a topdeck and I have had 0 issues with anything happening with 0 precautions to prevent it, other than having no shims under the am06s. Anyone who saw me last week when I was a little sick knows I hit some crap hard too
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Old 02-19-2014, 02:03 AM   #5687
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam B View Post
Well, I thought I knew what FFG stood for until this weekend. Under peer pressure I installed a FFG set up on my 700L, now I know it means F'ing frustrated guy. The right dog bone would pop out, even after doing the pin fix. The gearbox has more travel to the left then right for sure. The set up didn't have the top deck, would a top deck help solve this also?
Please install P10 covers on the FFG gear box as it is indicated in the FFG Instruction Manual.
P10 is very important element of FFG design and cinematics!
P10:
1. Restricts both the twist and the side movement of the front gearbox to the optimal level.
2. Provides the necessary link between the twist and the side movement of the front gearbox.
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Old 02-19-2014, 07:56 AM   #5688
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Ha, it's like Oleg is looking at my car. I took the FFG off another car and put it on mine. It did not have the covers on it. I will try to install them tonight.
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Old 02-19-2014, 09:32 AM   #5689
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When I don't use the covers it works free but once I did put them on it it's blocked on one side and free on the other one... Can anybody tell me what to do to fix it?
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Old 02-19-2014, 11:57 AM   #5690
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Here is a tip for anyone who is finding their FFG binds up after installing the diff cover.

Make sure the screw I show in the picture here is not too long (it is too long in the picture). If it is too long it will foul the diff cover. This is a problem with the alloy chassis and might be for carbon too but I don't know.



If the FFG moves more one way than the other then it is likely not centered properly. Undo the screws holding the FFG at the rear and carefully reposition it and ensure it remains central whilst tightening the screws.

Also check your battery is not too far inboard. It can foul the FFG also.

Make sure all the stops are not pressed tightly or this will restrict movement.

Ensure that where the gearbox goes through the bulkhead is free from dirt and debris and that whatever tape you have used here is still smooth and clean. I am replacing this tape after every meeting so far. To make this easier I am now putting the tape on the gearbox not the bulk head.

Hope this helps!

EDIT: Forgot to mention make sure the diff cover is closed properly once installed on the front gear box. Mine took a little wiggling before they snapped shut properly and it was possible to tighten everything up with the diff cover not closed properly.
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Old 02-19-2014, 01:17 PM   #5691
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hanulec View Post
two c01al setups we used at Snowbirds were--

AM30 -- center screw hole w/ flat head screw -- front and rear screw holes w/ a set screw [i.e. the fairtrace in 17.5/13.5]

AM30 -- all holes filled minus the rear most screw w/ flat heads -- brace 'jb weld'd' once we've verified the screws allowed for a flat chassis [i.e. the cyrul and hanulec in mod]
Has anyone tested different configurations like these back to back? What are the differences between handling with them? Does removing the rear most screw increase rear grip?

Currently I have mine screwed on with all screws, no glue. It took some messing with screw tensions and tightening order to get the chassis flat. Removing the rear most screw makes it a lot easier to get flat.

EDIT: Sorry I'm making a lot of posts. I'll put this one as an edit to minimise spam!

Just noticed this AM30-1 http://shop.awesomatixusa.com/a700-am30-1.html

Has AM30 been updated already? Can anyone tell me the difference between AM30 and AM30-1 please? Or even better have a photo?
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Old 02-19-2014, 01:47 PM   #5692
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AM30-1 is stiffer, higher, narrower (5mm) and easy for installation (the gluing is not important).
The first photo of AM30-1.
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Awesomatix EP Touring Car-imag0496.jpg  
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Old 02-19-2014, 03:42 PM   #5693
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Thanks for that Oleg, something else to add to my shopping list =]

Sadly I have to report I'm as stuck as many with getting the FFG moving freely with the diff cover installed.

Using the tips I posted above I have the FFG moving freely whilst the car is on the car stand but as soon as it is on it's wheels it binds up again. I can hear something rubbing but can't see what it is. I'm out of time/patience for today but will investigate it further when I do have more time/patience.

Some other things I had to take care of just to get it moving freely on the car stand was when tightening the 2 screws that hold the front gear box onto carbon rod assembly make sure the gear box does not twist and sits straight. Otherwise I found this limited the overall movement on one side.

For the same reason as above make sure the front bulkhead is square and straight.

After doing this I found the nub of plastic on the bottom of the diff cover was rubbing on the lower deck so I sanded a little material away. I think this nub might be what is limiting some of the movement and protecting the system so I don't think it's a good idea to entirely remove it or remove too much material just enough to get it moving freely.
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Old 02-19-2014, 05:23 PM   #5694
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Hi guys,

Something to share which will ensure the FFG moves more freely when car is on it's wheels.

You can use B74RS bearing + 1mm shim (ensure diameter is small enough to fit into rectangle cutout)+ ST08 nut instead of P31.

Some material may need to be removed from the right side steering link ball cup to ensure it does not rub on the bearing.

This solution also allows for tightening without the fear of stripping P31.

I have track tested this solution and found the FFG system needs less attention.

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Old 02-19-2014, 10:12 PM   #5695
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quantra View Post
Sadly I have to report I'm as stuck as many with getting the FFG moving freely with the diff cover installed...
Due to the increased longitudinal flex of 2mm alum chassis the next cutting (sanding) of the front lower P10 is useful for free movement of FFG:
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Old 02-20-2014, 04:26 AM   #5696
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Velocitygt View Post
Hi guys,

Something to share which will ensure the FFG moves more freely when car is on it's wheels.

You can use B74RS bearing + 1mm shim (ensure diameter is small enough to fit into rectangle cutout)+ ST08 nut instead of P31.

Some material may need to be removed from the right side steering link ball cup to ensure it does not rub on the bearing.

This solution also allows for tightening without the fear of stripping P31.

I have track tested this solution and found the FFG system needs less attention.

This looks like a good mod. I diagnosed mine down to this front stop rubbing, because I don't have the front bulkhead perfectly straight. Then I started thinking that when the chassis flexes this stop engages anyway and must cause some binding. So a bearing here will allow more free movement under load.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Oleg Babich View Post
Due to the increased longitudinal flex of 2mm alum chassis the next cutting (sanding) of the front lower P10 is useful for free movement of FFG:
Thanks for clarifying that one Oleg. I'm pretty sure I just need to straighten the front bulkhead on my car to get everything moving sweetly again =]
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Old 02-20-2014, 08:52 AM   #5697
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Velocitygt View Post
Hi guys,

Something to share which will ensure the FFG moves more freely when car is on it's wheels.

You can use B74RS bearing + 1mm shim (ensure diameter is small enough to fit into rectangle cutout)+ ST08 nut instead of P31.

Some material may need to be removed from the right side steering link ball cup to ensure it does not rub on the bearing.

This solution also allows for tightening without the fear of stripping P31.

I have track tested this solution and found the FFG system needs less attention.

mmm very clever mod..had no problems at all with FFG but will try this for next meeting.

About the PTFE tape. I didn't have any to hand so I used a piece of foil backed plastic - a Kinder chocolate bar wrapper - and backed it with thin double sided tape. Then Tamiya AW grease top and bottom of the gearbox. Free movement, no wear. Works perfect.
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Old 02-20-2014, 10:11 AM   #5698
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Guys,
Please explain what is the problem to find 3M Scotch Magic Tape for FFG?
We have this tape in every supermarket of my region ( in the departments of stationery/office products) !

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Old 02-20-2014, 10:24 AM   #5699
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oleg Babich View Post
Guys,
Please explain what is the problem to find 3M Scotch Magic Tape for FFG?
We have this tape in every supermarket of my region ( in the departments of stationery/office products) !

You tell em Oleg! lol
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Old 02-20-2014, 12:08 PM   #5700
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+1...
On a serious note though....that antiwear grease is a big dirt and carpet fiber collector and will cause issues in the long run. Wrong application for that sticky stuff. Get the ptfe
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