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Old 01-16-2014, 09:41 AM   #5326
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Yes John, for 100% zero flex (front <-> rear) the topdeck will be the best option. But on every test yet, if carbon chassis on asphalt or carpet, if alloy chassis on carpet, the car was without topdeck fastest. Also the front rear flex is no problem. It sounds strange, I know :-)

I know since the IIC in Vegas that US tracks are much different so maybe there are topdecks better because of the tires and high grip ;-)
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Old 01-16-2014, 11:45 AM   #5327
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Originally Posted by FreddySudhoff View Post
I know since the IIC in Vegas that US tracks are much different so maybe there are topdecks better because of the tires and high grip ;-)
Maximum grip at big USA races.
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Old 01-16-2014, 02:16 PM   #5328
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Originally Posted by FreddySudhoff View Post
Yes John, for 100% zero flex (front <-> rear) the topdeck will be the best option. But on every test yet, if carbon chassis on asphalt or carpet, if alloy chassis on carpet, the car was without topdeck fastest. Also the front rear flex is no problem. It sounds strange, I know :-)

I know since the IIC in Vegas that US tracks are much different so maybe there are topdecks better because of the tires and high grip ;-)
I agree with Freddy. Here in the US, I've done many "back to back" tests with and without the top deck on a variety of medium grip tracks, with a variety of layouts. ( all on recent generation CRC "ozite" carpet , with Spec , Sweep, Solaris, and Jaco tires ). Most of the testing, however, was with the alloy chassis but the results were similar with the carbon chassis.

In most cases, in my testing, the car is at least slightly faster without the top deck, sometimes significantly faster. In some instances the car felt and lap times showed it was as fast with the top deck, but this was rare. Also, generally, I like the way the car rotated around the corner more when I am not using the top deck. I'm sure it is a bit of a personal choice / driving style too.

On US high grip, I believe there will be occasions that the top deck can be useful to avoid traction rolling but with it will come a difference in the way the car arcs / rotates around the corner, again, a driver preference thing.

Cheers,

Jake
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Old 01-16-2014, 02:48 PM   #5329
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Has anyone of you opened the damper.
I like to know how its looked inside.
This helps me for switching to Awesomatic.
And can anybody tell wat is happened with Ivan Laptev?
Thanks
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Old 01-16-2014, 03:06 PM   #5330
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I have opened a couple of dampers but only cause I'm insistent on seeing how something works. But per Oleg...This is something that should only be done by the factory. I wholeheartedly agree. Although I took the time to take pictures and put everything back together, it's a pita. Plus I wouldn't trust to put those 2 dampers back into the car. Lol
Bottom line....don't take them apart, let the factory handle it
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Old 01-16-2014, 03:21 PM   #5331
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Originally Posted by JayBee View Post
I have opened a couple of dampers but only cause I'm insistent on seeing how something works. But per Oleg...This is something that should only be done by the factory. I wholeheartedly agree. Although I took the time to take pictures and put everything back together, it's a pita. Plus I wouldn't trust to put those 2 dampers back into the car. Lol
Bottom line....don't take them apart, let the factory handle it
I'd love to see those pics, are they online anywhere?
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Old 01-16-2014, 08:01 PM   #5332
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Pics are hard to come by, those were taken with a phone I no longer have. Sorry buddy
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Old 01-16-2014, 11:10 PM   #5333
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Oleg, Freddy & all - what are you thoughts about the P31 adjustment? have any suggestions to run with or without a gap initially? I want to try a bunch of different combos, just not sure if there is enough time.

BTW - The production FFG kit is truly amazing. This is the best piece of machining / construction I've seen yet. I didn't know if Awesomatix cars could get better until I saw the FFG.

From an assembly standpoint, I think the important point is to make sure the built FFG is level/straight. I played with that for a few minutes and found that flipping it upside down on a pit board got the best configuration for me. I was almost hoping the 2.5mm screws could be tightened from the "bottom" of the parts.
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Old 01-16-2014, 11:13 PM   #5334
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...
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Old 01-17-2014, 01:57 AM   #5335
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I run the car with the alloy chassis mostly with a gap from 1mm (P31). I have no reason for this but I like it as the FFG is more smooth and the car can "work" more.
We still need more testing with all the options so Mike maybe you can tell us more after the weekend?
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Old 01-17-2014, 03:01 AM   #5336
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Doucakis View Post
Freddy, in my videos shown would you label it as smooth movement?
In the video I accelerate and break, is the movement sufficient or is it too little?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qGthUZePBUg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iJXy6DZWUTk




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Great videos John, easy to see what is going on

Super tidy install but one question........what is in the little black box with "R1" on it ?

Bb

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Old 01-17-2014, 03:21 AM   #5337
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The R1 fan....a powerful motor fan.
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Old 01-17-2014, 03:54 AM   #5338
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Thanks, I thought it could be a motor fan but was confused by its location.

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Old 01-17-2014, 04:04 AM   #5339
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Originally Posted by hanulec View Post
Oleg, Freddy & all - what are you thoughts about the P31 adjustment? have any suggestions to run with or without a gap initially? I want to try a bunch of different combos, just not sure if there is enough time....
In case of C21 carbon top deck using you can even remove P31 stopper as this part doesn't work ( doesn't stop nothing ) with carbon top deck installed.

Please note also that some C21 samples can have 7,0mm hole instead of 6,0 mm hole in the center. This is due to the fact that several trial C21 test parts were mixed with the regular C21 by mistake.
Please use B74RS bearing plus SH0.5mm shim under this bearing plus SF3X6 screw instead of 6mm shims and SB3x5 screw at this case.
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Old 01-17-2014, 06:10 AM   #5340
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FreddySudhoff View Post
I run the car with the alloy chassis mostly with a gap from 1mm (P31). I have no reason for this but I like it as the FFG is more smooth and the car can "work" more.
We still need more testing with all the options so Mike maybe you can tell us more after the weekend?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oleg Babich View Post
In case of C21 carbon top deck using you can even remove P31 stopper as this part doesn't work ( doesn't stop nothing ) with carbon top deck installed.

Please note also that some C21 samples can have 7,0mm hole instead of 6,0 mm hole in the center. This is due to the fact that several trial C21 test parts were mixed with the regular C21 by mistake.
Please use B74RS bearing plus SH0.5mm shim under this bearing plus SF3X6 screw instead of 6mm shims and SB3x5 screw at this case.
Freddy and Oleg-
I continue to appreciate the direct feedback on setups and design scenarios. This is frankly one of the major reasons I (and many others) got involved with running this car.

On Saturday (and only Saturday unfortunately) I'll be trying a production FFG on carbon and a trail aluminum chassis. Prod aluminum chassis might get tried the following weekend.... as we are running out of time before Snowbirds.
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