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Old 01-13-2014, 09:04 AM   #5236
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So this is absolute torture. I have my FFG KIT, but no a700l to fit it 2! so stoked.
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Old 01-13-2014, 09:44 AM   #5237
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Default Setup Question

I have noticed the car turns so much quicker and carries more corner speed compared to my Xray, but I am struggling coming out of the corner... As I am exiting the corner the car doesn’t want to straighten out (oversteer on exit), what would be the first thing you would look at changing?

Also, on the EVO... What tape do you use on the front bulkhead? I really don’t have any ‘low friction’ tape… I have some battery tape I could use or can order the right stuff. The Manual mentioned some, but I have never seen that.

Lastly, how free should the FFG feel up front and how should it 'rest'? I can move it by hand but it doesn't just rotate back to the 'middle' on its own... it just sits where i put it. I lightly sanded the carbon tube on the ends and it slides in the peices ok, but i wouldnt say the FFG is freely moving at all? Is that the correct way for it to be?

Justin
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Old 01-13-2014, 10:00 AM   #5238
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Default Front Camber Links

I noted this spot on the set up sheet for the EVO with blue circles and the picture I have attached I have marked with Red Stars... is this the correct corresponding spot? The diagrams I have seen in the past don't seem to make much sense to me...

thanks
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Awesomatix EP Touring Car-acamber.jpg

Awesomatix EP Touring Car-afront.jpg
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Old 01-13-2014, 10:03 AM   #5239
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From looking and talking to a local racers' EVO, no...the ffg should return to center. Something is bound up there.
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Old 01-13-2014, 10:19 AM   #5240
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Originally Posted by gocoogs View Post
... What tape do you use on the front bulkhead? I really don’t have any ‘low friction’ tape…
Step 14 of the FFG Instruction Manual: 3M 810 Magic Tape.
Available in the departments of stationery/office products of supermarkets.
http://www.hyatts.com/art/3m-810-mag...x-36yds-R13045
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Old 01-13-2014, 10:31 AM   #5241
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Originally Posted by gocoogs View Post
I noted this spot on the set up sheet for the EVO with blue circles and the picture I have attached I have marked with Red Stars... is this the correct corresponding spot? The diagrams I have seen in the past don't seem to make much sense to me...

thanks
Justin

Attachment 1154407

Attachment 1154408
Hi gocoogs,

yeah your Blue dots on the Setup sheet are the position with the Red stars on my FFG Bulkhead !

But you will also have the same "Upper link arm length" if you use the holes which marked Red in the Setup Sheet screen shot.
The advantage of this is that you do not need to unscrew the AM42 and AM54 top link holders.

See for this Post #5188 from Oleg!

Best Regards Max
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Old 01-13-2014, 11:40 AM   #5242
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Hi everyone, was looking at getting the new A700 evo, this would be my 2nd attempt at owning this car after having the original car for 2 weeks when it 1st launched back when. So I'm hearing a lot of positve things about the car from when i was following it about 2yrs ago, my first question is what spares should i look at getting for the new A700 evo, i run on low/medium traction carpet in 17.5 stock, also i go to some of out of town races where the track is high traction, any help would be appreciated.
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Old 01-13-2014, 12:05 PM   #5243
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Hi everyone, was looking at getting the new A700 evo, this would be my 2nd attempt at owning this car after having the original car for 2 weeks when it 1st launched back when. So I'm hearing a lot of positve things about the car from when i was following it about 2yrs ago, my first question is what spares should i look at getting for the new A700 evo, i run on low/medium traction carpet in 17.5 stock, also i go to some of out of town races where the track is high traction, any help would be appreciated.
Check out Hanulec's racerlog. Here's a list of parts to buy right away and in the future.

http://racerlog.com/wiki/Awesomatix_...2F_Consumables

I would also recommend the metal gears for the rear gear diff if your not getting a GD2 gear diff and the AM24 floating servo mount.

For some reason Kyle and I have been breaking SPR02's lately, really the only thing we've broke on this car in the last few months and we run a lot of laps per week 1500+, so i would have at least one extra pack on hand.

Also buy an extra hard front bumper, either make one from a Parma block or buy Mike's precut for the car.
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Old 01-13-2014, 12:07 PM   #5244
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In one year of racing with the car, the only spare parts i needed were:

One set of springs (S or Std)
4x SPR02
Diff gears. I'd go for the steel ones
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Old 01-13-2014, 01:27 PM   #5245
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what would be the first thing you would look at changing?

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Old 01-13-2014, 05:25 PM   #5246
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I just received all my parts and built my GD2 with ARC internals thanks to Kody's part numbers post a while back. FYI for those that didn't see it before you ask why I used ARC parts - the Xray parts are sold out or hard to find all 3 part numbers in stock.

Everything went together as the assembly drawing shows and is pretty smooth.
Trimmed cross down to 20.8.
After a dry assembly checking backlash I used 2 shims (ARC# R103023) behind the spider gears.
Filled it with oil, bled through the out drive and its pretty smooth.







Ill let you know how it runs after this weekend.
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Old 01-13-2014, 09:50 PM   #5247
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Default Gd2

Would it be easier to shim the cross piece and install it so its centered in the tangs then trim so it's equal each way?.
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Old 01-13-2014, 09:54 PM   #5248
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He prolly did that Aaron, just didn't mention that step.
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Old 01-13-2014, 10:02 PM   #5249
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Quote:
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Would it be easier to shim the cross piece and install it so its centered in the tangs then trim so it's equal each way?.
Aaron-

The ARC (and Xray) cross stock are too long for the GD2 housing. You have to trim the cross to get it to fit. The 20.8 dim is from the assembly instructions. My point in showing it was to show that it too needed to be cut down like you would if you used the Xray part.

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Old 01-13-2014, 10:13 PM   #5250
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Default Cross piece

Yes I understand it needs to be cut down . I just wanted to point out for anybody doing it that it needs to be trimmed in the housing or at least shimmed and marked in the housing. You can either just use the housing as a guide and a real sharp exacto or score a line and remove it and cut and sand the ends.
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