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Old 01-06-2014, 09:11 AM   #5146
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Thanks! I will get that then. What hole out of the 6 do people use. RCTech is failing and not letting me use the search in this thread because I am sure that info is out there.
I run the lower middle hole. Ive seen some guys use one of the upper outer oles
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Old 01-06-2014, 09:21 AM   #5147
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I run the lower middle hole. Ive seen some guys use one of the upper outer oles
i tried the upper middle hole and it rubs on the top deck. i tried the lower middle hole and it rubs on the drive shaft? should i just try the mouth? lol
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Old 01-06-2014, 09:25 AM   #5148
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i tried the upper middle hole and it rubs on the top deck. i tried the lower middle hole and it rubs on the drive shaft? should i just try the mouth? lol
You may need to adjust the shims under the ballstud on the steering rack, I believe I have more than what the kits calls for. I'll check on my cars when I get home. I think my link will hit the driveshaft, though at steering angles that are beyond what I use to race with. You may also try using the outer upper hole, it is in between the 2 middle holes
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Old 01-06-2014, 09:31 AM   #5149
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makes sense, i can try that too!
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Old 01-06-2014, 09:48 AM   #5150
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thanks... im sure i will. having a little trouble reading the set up sheets properly... i dont really understand how the upper camber link positions translate to the car... to me it doesnt seem like there are as many upper camber positions as are listed on the set up sheet... for example.... like in the rear it shows 5 options, but on the car, there are only 4 spots... again, i might be missing something, but its confusing.

im excited about the car! it really is a piece of art!
My advice is to be patient and push through the learning curve. It will take a little while before everything clicks and feels comfortable, but it's worth the wait. If you're racing stock, this car is outright faster than everything else. It takes time to get it right.

The camber link positions are confusing, especially since they can be changed with different parts like AM19 and AM18-1. Here's a few pages I bookmarked my first time through that I think help clear things up.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/12217975-post3568.html
http://www.rctech.net/forum/11495004-post2697.html
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Old 01-06-2014, 10:21 AM   #5151
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i have never had a car with a 'rear caster' adjustment... am i correct in assuming the only thing it does is adjust the wheelbase? or will it also behave similarly to anti squat etc?
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Old 01-06-2014, 10:28 AM   #5152
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i have never had a car with a 'rear caster' adjustment... am i correct in assuming the only thing it does is adjust the wheelbase? or will it also behave similarly to anti squat etc?
It's mainly for wheelbase adjustment. Just ensure you adjust the toe link shims up or down (more shims on the hub for a longer wheelbase car) otherwise you end up with a bump steer kind of effect and get dynamic toe-in in the rear.
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Old 01-06-2014, 11:40 AM   #5153
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Originally Posted by geeunit1014 View Post
You may need to adjust the shims under the ballstud on the steering rack, I believe I have more than what the kits calls for. I'll check on my cars when I get home. I think my link will hit the driveshaft, though at steering angles that are beyond what I use to race with. You may also try using the outer upper hole, it is in between the 2 middle holes
Right now I'm using the Racers Edge arm its top hole is more than 18.5mm which is the max recommended in the manual. I use the ST21S tie rod which is the shorter version and I use AM24 servo mount in the second set of holes on the chassis.

Based on a post I found form searching, Oleg said if your arm is a little long and the tie rod hits the top deck to just bend the tie rod a little to clear.

I would like to use the inner most holes on the chassis to move the servo in more but the ball cup and tie rod would interfere even more with the top deck. Ill take some pics today to show my setup as its been working pretty good. My next change will be to switch to KO servo and get the KO carbon arm/horn that comes in a 3 arm kit and use the middle size arm as its the perfect length based on the manual and move the servo in to the center holes with a new ST21S that is strait.

Updated with pics. On the rack I use a smaller ball stud from an AE and AE open ball cup. I shave down the bottom side of it to not rub the drive shaft with turned fully right.











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Last edited by Styles; 01-06-2014 at 12:09 PM.
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Old 01-06-2014, 11:56 AM   #5154
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That is great news... and I cannot believe the price. Hum... so many things to consider...
Any suggestion for alternatives to XRay:
964050 big washers
964031 small washers



There are a lot of folks looking for Side Pieces these days -- which is what started Side Piece Racing...
ARC R10 gear diff is an Xray clone. All parts work but not as smooth as Xray. I've built one and if feels great though.

R103024 big shims
R103023 small shims
R101110 diff gears with cross axle
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Old 01-06-2014, 02:21 PM   #5155
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Because of the tight machining you have to sometimes wiggle Spr02 left to right in the slot so it will slide through.

Turn the chassis around as you assemble and it will magically become the proper left and right side when viewed from that end of the chassis
ok, so i got home and checked my dampers... i have taken pictures of the both of the L6 dampers so that you can see the difference. One of them has something it it... that is stopping the SPR02 from going in. is it something that wasn't put together properly at the factory or am i missing something here. the other three dampers are perfect and work fine...

I literally took them right out of the bag and put them on my pit table. i tried to remove whatever it is from there but i can't get anything out?

any help?

thanks guys!

Awesomatix EP Touring Car-photo-1.jpg

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Awesomatix EP Touring Car-photo-4.jpg

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Old 01-06-2014, 03:23 PM   #5156
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Hi everyone. My first ever post . I have been racing the A700 EXL in the UK for 5 months now and have found a few things that you might like to try to resolve some of the recent posts on here.

1. Use a Xray servo saver, this imho is the best you can buy and does the job perfectly.

2. GD2 parts. I use a TOP Photon EX cross piece and the same make of small washers for the satelite gears, not tryed TOP washers for the planet gears yet. Also the EX gears look exactly the same as the Xray gears but I have not measured or used them as I had Xray gears already. I use Sweep 3K diff oil and that seems 100% perfect to me.
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Old 01-06-2014, 04:00 PM   #5157
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Welcome mate
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Old 01-06-2014, 07:20 PM   #5158
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Originally Posted by gocoogs View Post
ok, so i got home and checked my dampers... i have taken pictures of the both of the L6 dampers so that you can see the difference. One of them has something it it... that is stopping the SPR02 from going in. is it something that wasn't put together properly at the factory or am i missing something here. the other three dampers are perfect and work fine...

I literally took them right out of the bag and put them on my pit table. i tried to remove whatever it is from there but i can't get anything out?

any help?

thanks guys!

Attachment 1151942

Attachment 1151944

Attachment 1151945

Attachment 1151943

is that a set screw w/in the dampener?
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Old 01-06-2014, 07:24 PM   #5159
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Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
My advice is to be patient and push through the learning curve. It will take a little while before everything clicks and feels comfortable, but it's worth the wait. If you're racing stock, this car is outright faster than everything else. It takes time to get it right.

The camber link positions are confusing, especially since they can be changed with different parts like AM19 and AM18-1. Here's a few pages I bookmarked my first time through that I think help clear things up.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/12217975-post3568.html
http://www.rctech.net/forum/11495004-post2697.html
this link is good too
http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/awes...A700vsA700EXL/
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Old 01-06-2014, 07:27 PM   #5160
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Looks like a set screw in backwards?
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