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Old 06-06-2013, 10:07 PM   #3601
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Originally Posted by Magnet Top
Just remember that until Awesomatix / Oleg offers a spur gear with the required 5mm holes you will not be able to use it *unless* you modify your own spur gear
**OR** use a small bushing. This would allow normal non modified spur gears to be used with the optional dampener
Is SH2.7R done with rubber? As a 5mm hole in my spur is pretty impossible to do (Panaracer/Xenon Spurs), can I replace SH2.7R by a piece of hose (? = "durite" in french)?

What do you suggest to replace SH2.7R when it's very difficult to make a bigger hole in the spur?
What brand of spur do you recommend to use with the dampening spur system?

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Old 06-07-2013, 12:25 AM   #3602
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Use these holes.


SH2.7R is the rubber collar.
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Old 06-07-2013, 01:59 AM   #3603
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Oleg, good day.

Any plans of making/creating our own line of spur?
And, yeah, (just like G-rem's inquiry) what spur would you recommend for this mod?

Cheers.

JC
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Old 06-07-2013, 02:25 AM   #3604
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Is SH2.7R done with rubber? As a 5mm hole in my spur is pretty impossible to do (Panaracer/Xenon Spurs), can I replace SH2.7R by a piece of hose (? = "durite" in french)?

What do you suggest to replace SH2.7R when it's very difficult to make a bigger hole in the spur?
What brand of spur do you recommend to use with the dampening spur system?

Best regrads,
G-rem
If you are in a situation where you have to use a standard gear without being able to enlarge the holes you can use a ball point pen's ink tube that has the correct dimension for using the existing 3mm holes in the gear. 3mm OD, 2mm ID tube. I just happened to have a ball point pen within ten feet of me that has nearly perfect dimensions so I was able to use it successfully. Hopefully it can be tested soon. See picture. Its a "Paper-Mate" brand pen.

Jake D.
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Old 06-07-2013, 02:42 AM   #3605
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If you are in a situation where you have to use a standard gear without being able to enlarge the holes you can use a ball point pen's ink tube that has the correct dimension for using the existing 3mm holes in the gear. 3mm OD, 2mm ID tube. I just happened to have a ball point pen within ten feet of me that has nearly perfect dimensions so I was able to use it successfully. Hopefully it can be tested soon. See picture. Its a "Paper-Mate" brand pen.
Jake D.
But please remember that you will not have the damping of the spur gear with these hard plastic collars.

We plan to produce our line of Delrin machined spur gears with two additional 5mm holes.

I recommend RW gears for use now. But it is possible to use any other spur gears except of the spurs with 3-holes configuration ( some of XRAY gears for example).
Please use the spurs with more than 2.7mm thickness. The thinner gears require the additional shims.
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Old 06-07-2013, 02:50 AM   #3606
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What kind of set up wheels are those? They look awesome
TAMIYA Part Nr. 49140 Aluminum Setting Wheels

Regards,
John
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Old 06-07-2013, 03:50 AM   #3607
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Thanks a lot for all the replies, so I can note that Panaracer spurs and Xenon spurs are not the same regarding the hole for the fixation of the spur. Will try to get some Xenon or RW...

BTW, if Awesomatix is planning to make his own range of spurs, I hope it will be CNC machined Delrin spurs, like the RW... just a tought ;-)

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G-rem
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Old 06-07-2013, 11:24 AM   #3608
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Well I got my kit and started the build.. WOW... couple reasons for the wow.... lol im used to the "normal" kits. this thing is hard to build. After taking your time and finishing up the part your on, I just put it on my pit board, sit back and go wow!!! The ECS and the axles are crazy no e clips or anything although a bit tricky to put together when you are done with them there is no slop or anything! Just finished the rear shocks this morning, only thing I had to skip was the droop screws? I dont understand does it press into the chassis? the other part I can not find is the locking pieces for the axles? Anyway just waiting for work to be done so I can finish it. With a little luck and determination first run tomorrow!
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Old 06-07-2013, 11:38 AM   #3609
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Well I got my kit and started the build.. WOW... couple reasons for the wow.... lol im used to the "normal" kits. this thing is hard to build. After taking your time and finishing up the part your on, I just put it on my pit board, sit back and go wow!!! The ECS and the axles are crazy no e clips or anything although a bit tricky to put together when you are done with them there is no slop or anything! Just finished the rear shocks this morning, only thing I had to skip was the droop screws? I dont understand does it press into the chassis? the other part I can not find is the locking pieces for the axles? Anyway just waiting for work to be done so I can finish it. With a little luck and determination first run tomorrow!
Yes, the plastic inserts for the droop screws press into the chassis, and then you ca them in place to lock them in. The setcrews then thread into the plastic insert. The lock washers for the axles are black plastic rings, they almost look like all the other shims but they are plastic.
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Old 06-07-2013, 11:48 AM   #3610
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Well I got my kit and started the build.. WOW... couple relocking or the wow.... lol im used to the "normal" kits. this thing is hard to build. After taking your time and finishing up the part your on, I just put it on my pit board, sit back and go wow!!! The ECS and the axles are crazy no e clips or anything although a bit tricky to put together when you are done with them there is no slop or anything! Just finished the rear shocks this morning, only thing I had to skip was the droop screws? I dont understand does it press into the chassis? the other part I can not find is the locking pieces for the axles? Anyway just waiting for work to be done so I can finish it. With a little luck and determination first run tomorrow!
The front axles are tricky.

The droop screws go I to the p06 and those are glued into the chassis.

The hub locking plastic parts are the p16. All in the plastic bag. They are super small.
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Old 06-07-2013, 12:05 PM   #3611
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Sweet thanks for the help, when I ordered the kit I think thats the difference between this car and other brands. Everyone helps out and answers questions with what is working with their cars! Thanks alot guys!
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Old 06-07-2013, 01:06 PM   #3612
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Hey Ryan ( WEEZY ),

It is a good idea to get to installing P06 sooner than later as it becomes difficult to install them as the build proceeds. Also, it is important to test them by installing set screws before moving on. My method for installation is this:
Slide P06 onto a suitable hex wrench ( some hex wrenches work better than others, so you might have to find an alternative. something with a step in it, but you could use a pinion gear as a step / shoulder ) so it acts as a guide and also allows you to put some pressure on P06 during and after it snaps into the hole. You'll have to hang the chassis over the end of a table to do this. Also, I put some CA ( that doesn't dry too quickly ) on P06 and in the chassis hole just before I install it.
Then I let it sit for a good while ( for me and my particular brand of CA , an hour seems to be enough ) before testing it by screwing in the set screws for the first time.
After a successful install you can take a flat razor blade and shave off the extra plastic that extends under the chassis. note that P06 should be installed from the top of the chassis.

Hope that helps,

Jake D.
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Last edited by Magnet Top; 06-07-2013 at 01:26 PM.
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Old 06-07-2013, 01:25 PM   #3613
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Kicker has become my new friend with the p06.
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Old 06-07-2013, 02:59 PM   #3614
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnet Top View Post
Hey Ryan ( WEEZY ),

It is a good idea to get to installing P06 sooner than later as it becomes difficult to install them as the build proceeds. Also, it is important to test them by installing set screws before moving on. My method for installation is this:
Slide P06 onto a suitable hex wrench ( some hex wrenches work better than others, so you might have to find an alternative. something with a step in it, but you could use a pinion gear as a step / shoulder ) so it acts as a guide and also allows you to put some pressure on P06 during and after it snaps into the hole. You'll have to hang the chassis over the end of a table to do this. Also, I put some CA ( that doesn't dry too quickly ) on P06 and in the chassis hole just before I install it.
Then I let it sit for a good while ( for me and my particular brand of CA , an hour seems to be enough ) before testing it by screwing in the set screws for the first time.
After a successful install you can take a flat razor blade and shave off the extra plastic that extends under the chassis. note that P06 should be installed from the top of the chassis.

Hope that helps,

Jake D.
I also ended up filing small notches in the graphite (very little is needed), so the CA has some more surface to grab onto. Roughing up the plastic external shoulder of P06 is definitely helpful as well.

Ethan
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Old 06-07-2013, 04:05 PM   #3615
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Thanks for the tip Ethan..
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