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Old 05-20-2013, 12:39 PM   #3481
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Originally Posted by hanulec View Post
Oleg - thanks for the help.
One point, in the USA with spec tires, we are unable to run big amounts of shims on the am06/am06s. the default 2.75mm will rub / grind into the p01/p02 when running Sweep or Solaris spec tires. Ive run Solaris Hards, Solaris mediums, Sweep true blue 32 and now just this past weekend Sweep OG 40.

Do you have any feedback with this point??

Mike
Oleg suggested shaving off some of P01 ( or P02 ? , I don't have the manual to look at right now ) with a sharp hobby knife ( aka x-acto blade ) so it will clear smaller wheels.


Jake D.
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Old 05-20-2013, 12:44 PM   #3482
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Mike,

The spec Ride tires for ETS are with smaller rims also.

Please cut the cups of the P02 after assembling of P01 and P02.


We can use 3.0mm shims after this.

Such cutting doesn't affect on the P01 popping out.

In case of anybody still has the problem with P01 popping out at the crashes I recommend you to use CA glue in P01/P02 joint ( one drop of thin glue in the gap between P01 and P02 after assembling and adjustments of the upper arms).
Such gluing doesn't affect on the possibility of further fine correction of the caster and camber.
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Old 05-20-2013, 01:04 PM   #3483
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Originally Posted by geeunit1014 View Post
Thanks FJ. Car was very easy to drive, and also soaked up the bumps in the sweeper nicely. The higher roll centers for me are easier to drive for asphalt than the low roll centers, so I think it might be a good option for someone looking for an easier to drive car
I tried my car with low r/c this weekend , and i'am not sure if it was a step in the right direction more testing needed
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Old 05-20-2013, 01:30 PM   #3484
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I tried my car with low r/c this weekend , and i'am not sure if it was a step in the right direction more testing needed
Please note that I insist not on super low roll centers.
I insist now only on super low inner lower balls.
With such balls you have the widest window for roll centers/camber gain settings.
The increased camber gain is very important on asphalt as it helps to get more traction in turns and the traction rolling problems are far away on the most asphalt tracks.

You can easy watch the next in the roll center calculator:
In case of you move the lower inner balls more and more down but keep the roll centers at the desirable constant level ( it can be even not super low) by means of the top link adjustments - you will see the increasing of the camber gain.

Let's try the next thing during your paractice on the track : install the roll centers that you prefer earlier and remove some shims from under lower inner balls but adjust the top balls to return the roll centers on the previous position.

It is not easy without the roll center calculator so please use the empiric rules for our suspension:
1. The removal of each 1mm shim from under lower inner ball needs the removal of 2,75mm shim from under upper inner ball to keep the roll center level.
2. The removal of each 1mm shim from under lower inner ball lowers the roll center on ~ 2,4mm.
3. After the adding of the identical shims simultaneously under inner and outer upper balls the roll center remains on the same level.

Last edited by Oleg Babich; 05-20-2013 at 02:31 PM.
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Old 05-20-2013, 11:09 PM   #3485
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Greetings to all!

I would like to thank mr. Mike for the great service and assistance. Can't wait to get my kit and try your settings. Surely, it'll be a another great experience driving this well-designed and engineered car.

Cheers to all.
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Old 05-21-2013, 05:08 AM   #3486
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W/in RCSignup.com you'll now find the Awesomatix A700 listed. Make sure to update your saved models from Bolink or Marui to show that your representing an Awesomatix when you sign up for races using RCSignup.com
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Old 05-21-2013, 09:05 AM   #3487
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W/in RCSignup.com you'll now find the Awesomatix A700 listed. Make sure to update your saved models from Bolink or Marui to show that your representing an Awesomatix when you sign up for races using RCSignup.com
Where is that "Like" Button.... Good Job!
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Old 05-22-2013, 08:34 PM   #3488
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Good luck to all of the competitors at the Reedy Race tomorrow...
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Old 05-23-2013, 09:12 AM   #3489
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I had some time yesterday to try the lowrc setup on the 32 sorex and HOT track(40+ deg. C) .

I used the Protoform ltrc lexus body

Front had alot of grip but rear had almost nothing while off power/ coasting. on power it had some grip.

I tried to stiffen front and more toe in rear and from symmetric to assymmetric on dampers and it only made front grip more and rear more loose.

The tires are really worn now, lasted 5x 5min runs.1 & 2nd were only runs that were somewhat possible to drive, tires wore so fast.

On the 2nd run I tried warming the tires to 60deg.c with additive and it was a bit better but nothing too good.


I dont have any idea what to do, the race is on saturday.

(It is on a different track that will be sprayed with some kind of traction aid, the track I tested was clean but no traction stuff added)

The top deck is cut at the front (not all the way, only the "open" part) -would it make sense to cut the rear also?
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Old 05-23-2013, 09:51 AM   #3490
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastvee View Post
I had some time yesterday to try the lowrc setup on the 32 sorex and HOT track(40+ deg. C) .

I used the Protoform ltrc lexus body

Front had alot of grip but rear had almost nothing while off power/ coasting. on power it had some grip.

I tried to stiffen front and more toe in rear and from symmetric to assymmetric on dampers and it only made front grip more and rear more loose.

The tires are really worn now, lasted 5x 5min runs.1 & 2nd were only runs that were somewhat possible to drive, tires wore so fast.

On the 2nd run I tried warming the tires to 60deg.c with additive and it was a bit better but nothing too good.


I dont have any idea what to do, the race is on saturday.

(It is on a different track that will be sprayed with some kind of traction aid, the track I tested was clean but no traction stuff added)

The top deck is cut at the front (not all the way, only the "open" part) -would it make sense to cut the rear also?
Can you post or send me your setup.
Also try Mazda Speed 6 to start with.
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Old 05-23-2013, 10:24 AM   #3491
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Can you post or send me your setup.
Also try Mazda Speed 6 to start with.
Hi, I used this to start with .
(from this post )

I moved the front shocks out some to try but that made front grip even more(tires were starting to be worn out at that point thought)

Will try the mazda next time, sadly next test day is the race...

-Pate
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Old 05-23-2013, 10:50 AM   #3492
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Try to use less front and rear droop like 6 in front and 5 rear.
Also, more rear caster +2
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Old 05-23-2013, 11:18 AM   #3493
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I thought that rear caster is only for wheelbase adjustments? -will adding caster really add rear grip?

Will try adjusting the droop.


To clarify:

The car is somewhat ok on long fast sweepers on half/almost full throttle.

Coming to a corner slowing down and then giving some (any) throttle to drive through corners the rear slips out.-this also happens on straight line accelleration. sometimes even just slight braking will spin the car
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Old 05-23-2013, 12:21 PM   #3494
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I would change to a speed6 body and adjust from there. Adding more or less rear caster does affect the wheel base, but can give you more rear traction by shortening it.
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Old 05-23-2013, 04:00 PM   #3495
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Fastvee

Try more dampening (high a) and less spring (high b)

Front a of 3
Rear a of 5
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