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Old 12-10-2012, 06:06 AM   #2716
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Originally Posted by Nico' View Post
Hi,

in which condition to use n3 dampers please? with low grip?

then, C07 carbon bumper is out of stock, is it the same as Tamiya TA-54089 please?

then the same question for AM16 out of stock, is it the same as Tamiya TA-84082 please?

Thanks,

Nico'
#3 dampers are under testing by our team drivers now still.
So the recommendations will be later.
Tamiya's carbon bumper is suitable.
TA-84082 is not the same but is suitable.
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Old 12-10-2012, 08:18 AM   #2717
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oleg Babich View Post
#3 dampers are under testing by our team drivers now still.
So the recommendations will be later.
Tamiya's carbon bumper is suitable.
TA-84082 is not the same but is suitable.
Thanks Oleg,

when will be C01 EX ( and EX kit) available again please?

Thanks,

Nico'
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Old 12-10-2012, 08:57 AM   #2718
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Thanks Oleg,

when will be C01 EX ( and EX kit) available again please?

Thanks,

Nico'
Next week.. I hope.
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Old 12-17-2012, 12:39 AM   #2719
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Excited to start exercising my A700's again!
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Old 12-17-2012, 01:36 AM   #2720
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I hope it will be available in asia, also for the sparepart..
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Old 12-17-2012, 02:28 AM   #2721
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oleg Babich View Post
1. Please try this setup on your track first.
2. Almost all touring cars have front suspension actually softer than rear.
Harder springs and oil are compensated by the shorter operating
leverage force application for the shocks on the front suspension of all others touring
cars.
3. Please use our standard setup as initial.
Hi OLEG..

The A700 is Fantastic...

But Could explain more details about your statement No.2 .... its make me confused....in what condition the front of all touring car suspension was softer than rear... ??

Tks Before....
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Old 12-17-2012, 09:30 AM   #2722
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Originally Posted by FrenchFries View Post
...
But Could explain more details about your statement No.2 .... its make me confused....in what condition the front of all touring car suspension was softer than rear.....
It means that if you put 200 (for example) grams weight on the front end of the car and the same 200 grams weight on the rear end of the car the front ride height decreases more than rear ride height. This is the usual thing for current touring cars at the most common conditions.

Last edited by Oleg Babich; 12-17-2012 at 10:03 AM.
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Old 12-17-2012, 03:00 PM   #2723
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrenchFries View Post
The A700 is Fantastic...

But Could explain more details about your statement No.2 .... its make me confused....in what condition the front of all touring car suspension was softer than rear... ??

Tks Before....
FrenchFries,

Next time you are at the track ask your fellow racers if you can push on the front and back of their cars to feel the suspension stiffness. You will notice that most cars will feel softer in the front than in the rear. The confusion comes because the front of the car typically uses springs that are stiffer relative than the rear ! As Oleg explained, the reason the effective spring rate is opposite ( front is actually softer ) is because the leverage point makes the effective spring rate softer in the front. To explain this, On "typical" touring rc cars the leverage point is different on the front vs the back because the shock/spring assembly is mounted further in towards the centerline of the car (only in the front ) to allow the front wheels to steer ( left and right ) and not rub against the shock/spring assembly. The rear shock/spring assembly is typically mounted further out than the front and will not rub because we use toe out in the rear which also doesn't "steer". Hope that helps explain it !

Jake D.
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Last edited by Magnet Top; 12-17-2012 at 03:19 PM.
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Old 12-17-2012, 03:22 PM   #2724
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I seen one of these cars run and school a bunch of racers this weekend. Very impressive.
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Old 12-17-2012, 07:18 PM   #2725
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oleg Babich View Post
It means that if you put 200 (for example) grams weight on the front end of the car and the same 200 grams weight on the rear end of the car the front ride height decreases more than rear ride height. This is the usual thing for current touring cars at the most common conditions.
I see..
tks alots Oleg.....
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Old 12-17-2012, 07:20 PM   #2726
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnet Top View Post
FrenchFries,

Next time you are at the track ask your fellow racers if you can push on the front and back of their cars to feel the suspension stiffness. You will notice that most cars will feel softer in the front than in the rear. The confusion comes because the front of the car typically uses springs that are stiffer relative than the rear ! As Oleg explained, the reason the effective spring rate is opposite ( front is actually softer ) is because the leverage point makes the effective spring rate softer in the front. To explain this, On "typical" touring rc cars the leverage point is different on the front vs the back because the shock/spring assembly is mounted further in towards the centerline of the car (only in the front ) to allow the front wheels to steer ( left and right ) and not rub against the shock/spring assembly. The rear shock/spring assembly is typically mounted further out than the front and will not rub because we use toe out in the rear which also doesn't "steer". Hope that helps explain it !

Jake D.
Enlightening.....

Tks alot Jake....
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Last edited by FrenchFries; 12-17-2012 at 07:36 PM.
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Old 12-17-2012, 10:04 PM   #2727
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For what its worth.

The new kits come with new P01/P02 which are considerably stronger / tighter which allows them to withstand impact without separating from each other. Also, they appear to snap onto ST03 ( the ball stud ) with more force. I found that they were so tight that it restricted movement of the suspension. Thankfully the solution is VERY easy. I just spun ST03 on my "Dremel" tool ( rotary hobby tool ) which allowed me to polish the balls with 400 grit sand paper. It didnt' take much all to make them free, so maybe 600 grit would be better. I think it was well worth it because it made the suspension parts move freely.

Cheers,

Jake D.
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Old 12-17-2012, 10:07 PM   #2728
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnet Top View Post
For what its worth.

The new kits come with new P01/P02 which are considerably stronger / tighter which allows them to withstand impact without separating from each other. Also, they appear to snap onto ST03 ( the ball stud ) with more force. I found that they were so tight that it restricted movement of the suspension. Thankfully the solution is VERY easy. I just spun ST03 on my "Dremel" tool ( rotary hobby tool ) which allowed me to polish the balls with 400 grit sand paper. It didnt' take much all to make them free, so maybe 600 grit would be better. I think it was well worth it because it made the suspension parts move freely.

Cheers,

Jake D.
You can also get ball joint reamer from most r/c heli stores that will make quick work of precise fit.
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Old 12-17-2012, 10:11 PM   #2729
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Originally Posted by MDawson View Post
You can also get ball joint reamer from most r/c heli stores that will make quick work of precise fit.
Interesting, I didn't know something like that is available , but in this case, I really think it is such a slight amount of polishing of the ball that anything over just a quick spin of ST03 using a rotary tool with fine grit sandpaper would be overkill.

Jake D.
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Old 12-18-2012, 04:46 AM   #2730
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Simply cannot beat a ball joint reamer. Easy and it allows you to adjust it super precise then you can do all the joints the same in a minute. Its a regular tool for heli guys
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