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Old 03-16-2012, 07:55 PM   #1786
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I knight you Sir Stealth....
Very nice job
because of hanulecs comment you get the number slot if I sell!

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those setup wheels gotta go
hater!
somewhere in the 'lab' is a set of black matte wheels. lost in rubble.
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Old 03-16-2012, 08:10 PM   #1787
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Looks awesome Mark!

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Old 03-16-2012, 08:13 PM   #1788
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My A700 Stealth Edition

Is that cut out front bumper to get less weight up front, or to be more Batmobile like?

Oh, and looking sharp man.
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Old 03-16-2012, 08:49 PM   #1789
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because of hanulecs comment you get the number slot if I sell!
nah.. i'm first in line for crack head deals - not cutzees
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Old 03-16-2012, 09:17 PM   #1790
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because of hanulecs comment you get the number slot if I sell!
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nah.. i'm first in line for crack head deals - not cutzees
Sorry Hanulec...Fail again...cutzees big time...
It's almost like being in the Apple line for a new Ipad

What's Kelly Blue Book on an Awesomatix?
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Old 03-16-2012, 09:22 PM   #1791
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..
It's almost like being in the Apple line for a new Ipad

What's Kelly Blue Book on an Awesomatix?
If you saw what I saw today delivering a new ipad.....
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Old 03-17-2012, 11:14 AM   #1792
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If anyone is having issues with the CVD cage popping apart in a hit, simply push the center of a kit bearing out (B106RS) and use a dremel to grind the center of the ring flat. You will then be able to slide this ring over the cage to stop it popping apart. It is a nice tight fit so no heat shrink is required. Since doing this I have not had one come apart.



Also, a small cable tie around the double ball cups helps to keep them popping apart in a hit.



These are both being updated by Awesomatix in the future although for now these small modifications work just fine.
Sorry guys, but I can't believe what I am hearing.
So I buy me a 600+ euro touringcar on which some parts are held together with tie-raps and bearing rings. Thought of buying me this car, but have to reconsider now.
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Old 03-17-2012, 11:23 AM   #1793
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Yes, you still need "joint grease" I personally use Hudy graphite grease. Just a bit on the friction points, You do not need much but it has to be there. Every time you service the car, get in the habit of checking this area, you do not want to run them dry.

The sleeve is a safety thing that helps the completed assembly stay together during a crash. ( Heat shrink performs the same function)

Hope this helps
Sorry, but it doesn't. I am completely lost here and about to give up.
You say the above, one other guy says:"I use dry wax lube on all universal joints (as it does not attract dirt) and use Magnalube teflon grease in gearboxes, that is the only lubraction needed. Also it is good to spray the outdrive bushings with WD40 then dry off, just to ensure they dont cease on the pin, as if they do it will wear out the outdrives very quickly."

Are you both using the graphite grease and the dry wax lube on the same places on the car, or what? Or does it mean that you can use the one or the other?

Also heard:"I use Hudy black grease (AE is extremely similar) on universals, and a dry wax lube on gears (ring and pinion for example)."

So that are three ways of servicing the universals? Graphite grease, dry wax lube or black grease?

As to using heatshrink: so every time when servicing the car you have to cut off the heatshrink, service the car and shrink new one on again?

Last edited by Kensei; 03-17-2012 at 11:36 AM.
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Old 03-17-2012, 11:28 AM   #1794
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Sorry guys, but I can't believe what I am hearing.
So I buy me a 600+ euro touringcar on which some parts are held together with tie-raps and bearing rings. Thought of buying me this car, but have to reconsider now.
The techniques described make the car more resistant to failure during hard crashes, under normal load this is unnecessary.

All cars have weak spots, pick your poison.

If minor tweaks like this are scaring you away, maybe it's not the right car. I hope you reconsider though, the car has alot of potential, but it does take a bit of learning and a willingness to experiment.

Best,
Ethan
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Old 03-17-2012, 12:00 PM   #1795
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Yes, perfect fit.

I use dry wax lube on all universal joints (as it does not attract dirt) and use Magnalube teflon grease in gearboxes, that is the only lubraction needed.

Also it is good to spray the outdrive bushings with WD40 then dry off, just to ensure they dont cease on the pin, as if they do it will wear out the outdrives very quickly.
With the outdrive bushings your mean part number ST07 where the axes with part number P08 go in?

Last edited by Kensei; 03-18-2012 at 04:59 AM.
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Old 03-18-2012, 05:09 AM   #1796
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Default Awesomatix A700 diff oil

In the manual it says to use 1000 cps oil as initial in the diff.

I race on a short technical track, on asphalt, with low grip (not with the A700 at the moment and never had a gear diff).

Would 1000 cps work in that case as?

Indeed I see on some setupsheets that 1000 cps is used on low to medium grip asphalt tracks. So maybe that's the aswer to my question.

I'm asking because with other brands of cars thinner diff oil often is suggested under low grip conditions.

Just wanted to hear you guys expert opinions, to avoid me buying stuff that wouldn't work.

Don't want this hobby to get me bankrupt.......
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Old 03-18-2012, 05:14 AM   #1797
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In the manual it says to use 1000 cps oil as initial in the diff.

I race on a short technical track, on asphalt, with low grip (not with the A700 at the moment and never had a gear diff).

Would 1000 cps work in that case as?

Indeed I see on some setupsheets that 1000 cps is used on low to medium grip asphalt tracks. So maybe that's the aswer to my question.

I'm asking because with other brands of cars thinner diff oil often is suggested under low grip conditions.

Just wanted to hear you guys expert opinions, to avoid me buying stuff that wouldn't work.

Don't want this hobby to get me bankrupt.......
What car and track do you currently race at?
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Old 03-18-2012, 05:15 AM   #1798
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What car and track do you currently race at?
Corally RDX Phi'09 at ERCE Eindhoven.
Sold all of my stuff and starting all over again for the 2012 outdoor season.

Could please someone answer my questions before I am going to spend a truckload of money?

Thanks.

Last edited by Kensei; 03-18-2012 at 06:07 AM.
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Old 03-18-2012, 06:42 AM   #1799
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Yes, perfect fit.

I use dry wax lube on all universal joints (as it does not attract dirt) and use Magnalube teflon grease in gearboxes, that is the only lubraction needed.

Also it is good to spray the outdrive bushings with WD40 then dry off, just to ensure they dont cease on the pin, as if they do it will wear out the outdrives very quickly.
As to teflon grease:

These will do the trick as well I think? (I hope....)

http://www.bikesnparts.nl/Finish-Lin...Grease-457gram

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/s...egoryId_228375
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Old 03-18-2012, 10:20 AM   #1800
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Corally RDX Phi'09 at ERCE Eindhoven.
Sold all of my stuff and starting all over again for the 2012 outdoor season.

Could please someone answer my questions before I am going to spend a truckload of money?

Thanks.
The reason I asked was I noticed that you have been surveying a few other brands as well. You will find that even with your Corally that there are many many different ways to go fast. That said, ways that you might setup a T3 2012 vs. A700 can be very different. And with the A700, as the car is still fairly new to the market that we are learning what works, works better and flat out does not.

The A700 is going to provide the most tunable and flexible platform on the market. With many different chassis and drivetrain configurations. I would concede that the 417 and T3 have a very strong base of very capable drivers and setups that work.

I would suggest going with a model that will provide something within your current experience level and knowledge - and has a good following nearby you to get good learning and support. Nothing wrong with that.

The A700 is super advanced. It will require a good interest and knowledge-base of r/c.
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