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Old 03-05-2012, 03:35 PM   #1711
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Originally Posted by MrGidi123 View Post
How did you guys do that? I still have the stock color i really want a this white style
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Originally Posted by ddd2k View Post
I got it done at pkselective, they're in santa clara, ca. they did 4 of my other rc cars in red and gun metal, it takes about 3 days.
There you go
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Old 03-05-2012, 04:34 PM   #1712
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First, nearly all of these questions have been answered or can be inferred from the manual. That said, I think this is a helpful thread, people trying to a) grow the sport of TC across the world and b) evangelizing for this great car. So, my attempt at responses for your questions. Note: I rearranged a couple questions to give more continuity to the Q/A.

Quote:
Does it come with different kinds of anti rollbars in the kit? (different as to thickness).
Yes, all of the available sizes come in the kit.

Quote:
What do I need to buys extra when wanting to race without problems an outdoorseason?
Well, that's a bit of a loaded question as it depends on the track (types of pipes/curbs/etc..., your skill level, and somewhat a bit of luck one way or another.

The only thing I've broken are the P03 arm ball cap, and lost one of the sway bar holders (P05).

That said, this is a good place to start, and this post by Mark Dawson has some other suggestions, though I found the car to be extremely durable, and parts delivery to be pretty quick.

Quote:
Are parts P05 in the kit for different use of sway bars?
No, they are two sided, small hole and bigger hole for different sway bars.

Quote:
Do I need extra parts for spring and shock adjustment? Like springs and oils?

Are the different kinds of shock springs available (SPR01), or not? Or are other shock springs not needed?
No, the movement of the shocks and SRS determines dampening and spring tension. I've heard rumors of shocks with other oil or springs existing at big races, but there are no commercially available options that I know of.

Quote:
Do I need extra special tools? If so which ones?
Setup kit, like the one available from Hudy, and a pair of calipers is sufficient, IMO. Of course, normal tools from other TCs (ride height gauge, camber gauge, etc...) are all nearly mandatory with this TC as well.

Quote:
What motor position best to use under what circumstances?
Every setup I've seen bar maybe one have been of the longitudinal variety, of course that could be do to the uniqueness of that setup these days. I run longitudinal with modified (4T motor) and haven't seen any ill effects.

Quote:
What joint grease to use? See page 6. Please give brand and partnumber.
I use Hudy black grease (AE is extremely similar) on universals, and a dry wax lube on gears (ring and pinion for example).

Quote:
What brand of pinions best to use?
I use Losi pinions, smooth. Any pinion from your chosen manufacturer will work. Maybe if running in transverse, and you have very deep pinions it could be a problem, but not likely.


Quote:
What brand of spurs best to use?
I use speedtechrc's spurs, because they sell 70-73 (48 pitch) at a reasonable price. If using 64 pitch nearly any spur will work, I know spurs for Xray's fit just fine, but do look at the gearing guides on pages 39 and 40 for the sizes that fit the car, they are smaller than typical cars due to physical constraints of various chassis parts.

Quote:
What servo best to use in the car?
I would recommend the low profile servo of your choice, I use Futaba's BLS551, fits perfect.

Quote:
When racing about 10.5t or 13.5t and longitudinal motor postion and wanting the weight no more than 1350 grams what servo position best to use? Right side on the battery side, or left side on the motor side?

Where best to place the servo, as to weight distribution left/right? In all other TC's weight has to be added on the right side, so the LiPo side. Therefore it is better to put the servo in the right? Or is all of the weight distribution different with this car?

What does this car weigh race ready, approximately? Must not be more than 1.350 grams! Preferably less!
If servo is placed on the right side, then balancing with the LiPo isn't possible anymore, or not needed anymore?
In conventional touring cars extra weight must be added on the right side, that is the side where the LiPo is, to get the car balanced. I would like to get the car balanced spot on and not be heavier than 1.350gr. In the manual it says longitudinal positioning of the motor when using 8.5T to 17.5T. That is what I will be using. Then were best to place the servo when the aim is spot on balance and 1.350 grams maximum?
Almost all cars I have seen have the servo on the left. So that seems the way to go?
Weight distribution is very similar to other cars, IMO. I use the battery all the way in on right side (outside flush with chassis), and left side servo as with nearly all other cars. I've had to add 5-10 grams per side to get perfect balance, but it was really close already. My car is over 1350 grams, but I use a normal weight body, and have about 50 grams of weight in the car, so could very easily come in under 1350.

Quote:
Does it come with a spool in the front?
Yep.

Quote:
Does it come with a geardiff in the rear?
Yep.

Quote:
Is a front geardiff as an extra in the kit?
Nope, but available on awesomatix's site.

Quote:
Is the DG1 damper gauge included in the kit?
Yep.

Quote:
Can I find a setup with this car out of the box on very different tracks? I mean short technical with very short corners or long high speed with wide sweepers. Or do I have to buy all kinds of things to get it work?
I would say other than an optional front gear diff, and the increased ackerman set, no other spares (for setup) are needed.

Quote:
What body best to use?
Many use the Mazda Speed 6 from Protoform, and there are other choices, but that's a reasonably neutral starting point.

Quote:
In the manual it says:”Our Dampers are factory assembled and fluid
filled already. Don’t disassemble Damper’s
casing to avoid a loss of damping rate.”
So it is never needed to put oil of another thickness in the dampers? Or change the oil on a regular basis?
From what I've read nobody is replacing oil, or rebuilding, but I could be wrong. From what I've seen on my own car, there is no shock oil leakage, or air after running.


Quote:
Page 35:
Roll Center adjustment:
Use combinations of SH0.5, SH1.0 and SH1.75 Spacers
under appropriate Pivot Balls and Ball Studs for this adjustment.
Are these spacers in the kit?
Yes, there are an number of extra spacers provided, but really any 3mm spacer will work.

Quote:
How do you set the droop on this car?
Via droop screws threaded thru P06 (page 9 of manual). Very similar to other cars, but from underneath not through the A arm.

Quote:
How can I and where do I buy this car?
How to pay?
Most buy from shop.awesomatix.com, and you can pay via bank transfer, or thru PayPal (small percentage added to the order for PayPal). Once you place your order, ask via email for their PayPal account ID.

Quote:
Are those horizontal extensions on the rear bodyposts in the kit?

If not what partnumber and what do they cost?
No, but posts from Xray work great. Just a little trimming needed.


Quote:
Do I have to grind the edges of the chassis plate and other parts and then treat them with CA to avoid chipping or splitting?
In the manual it says on page 9:Apply thin CA glue on all C01 Lower Deck edges to protect and seal them.
Yes, I think you answered your own question, just sand with some 600 grit until relatively smooth, and glue it up. A tip from a friend for doing this is to use some reasonably thin glue, run it all the way around, then spray kicker in a box, and place the graphite part in the box (don't spray directly on graphite part), then close the lid. 60 seconds later cured enough for touching and bright and shiny.

Quote:
I've looked at some setups. As to frame flex setting: when there are red crosses in the middle of the topdeck on the setupsheet does that mean that there is cut, or the opposite not cut?

How best to cut the top deck?

I looked at many setups. Is it safe to say that almost everybody cuts the top deck at all 11 places? Especially on asphalt?
Cut. Most setups I've seen as of late cut them all yes, especially when not on carpet. Freddy's setup has the back not cut, but I think experimentation is useful hear.

Use a Dremel cutting wheel, very simple just go slow and be deliberate.

Quote:
On some topdecks on some setupsheets I see where there are bolts, NO red cross at the front three holes and the rear three holes. I don't understand. There has to be one bolt at the least?! So I expected minimum one red cross.
See here.

Quote:
Do I have to use loc tite to tighten the screws when I build the car?
Not necessary, but these are steel (by default) screws in aluminum, so normal practices apply. I recommend yes.

Quote:
Can you do the geardiff modification for me as seen on your website? Of course I pay you for that!
AFAIK, nobody offers that service. But honestly it's very simple, and the extra shims are provided (as spares). That said, you've mentioned not running modified, so I don't think it's really necessary, just put it together, and run. A gear set later is a cheap spare set to have, and you can always do this mod later if you find it necessary.

I hope this helps, and good luck. The car is a lot of fun to get to know and reacts quickly to setup changes.

Best,
Ethan

Last edited by erchn; 03-05-2012 at 05:26 PM. Reason: Spelling and grammar
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Old 03-06-2012, 12:59 AM   #1713
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Quote:
Quote:
Do I need extra special tools? If so which ones?
Setup kit, like the one available from Hudy, and a pair of calipers is sufficient, IMO. Of course, normal tools from other TCs (ride height gauge, camber gauge, etc...) are all nearly mandatory with this TC as well.
you need 2 common tools that aren't so common in rc cars:

10 mm wrench for gear differential tightening
12 mm wrench for spur gear nut tightening

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Old 03-06-2012, 02:51 AM   #1714
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erchn,

Thank you a lot !
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Old 03-06-2012, 06:06 AM   #1715
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Hello Oleg,

Can we have steen's ets setup please?

Hugo
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Old 03-06-2012, 07:33 AM   #1716
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Doucakis View Post
We just run our first Nats race for 2012 this past weekend.
I am happy to say I won, although only just.. and a bit lucky.

Here is my report

JD & RACING BLOG



you just run out of luck. Next races you'll eat the great PSOLIA.
FOTIS
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Old 03-06-2012, 07:37 AM   #1717
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Doucakis View Post
We just run our first Nats race for 2012 this past weekend.
I am happy to say I won, although only just.. and a bit lucky.

Here is my report

JD & RACING BLOG




you just run out of luck. Next races you'll eat the great PSOLIA.
FOTIS
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Old 03-06-2012, 07:51 AM   #1718
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GEO View Post
you just run out of luck. Next races you'll eat the great PSOLIA.
FOTIS
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Old 03-06-2012, 09:06 AM   #1719
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Damon View Post
you need 2 common tools that aren't so common in rc cars:

10 mm wrench for gear differential tightening
12 mm wrench for spur gear nut tightening

True. I use a crescent wrench in both cases but the 12 could be handy if you need to change your spur without removing the top deck.

Thanks,
E
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Old 03-06-2012, 12:09 PM   #1720
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Originally Posted by erchn View Post
True. I use a crescent wrench in both cases but the 12 could be handy if you need to change your spur without removing the top deck.

Thanks,
E
I have been testing a new tool 12mm ring and 10mm open end. You can change the spur without taking off the topdeck. It is made from Carbon fibre. It will be available very soon.
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Old 03-06-2012, 01:36 PM   #1721
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hugo View Post
Hello Oleg,

Can we have steen's ets setup please?

Hugo
You can find it here now:
http://awesomatix.com/download/
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Old 03-06-2012, 02:37 PM   #1722
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Bet this question have been answered several times before but what size spurs both in 48p and 64p do I need to get? And pinion range too? Running outdoors and indoors with different pitch. run 4.5 outdoors and 5.5 indoors.

And what size for 17.5 boosted indoors only? Usually run Tekin/revtech combo.

Thinking of going two classes this season.

Cheer
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Old 03-06-2012, 03:06 PM   #1723
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oleg Babich View Post
You can find it here now:
http://awesomatix.com/download/
Thanks,

I guess it's a good stating point. Not that far from freddy's warmup setup.
Oleg, do you know what does steen mean on the comments of the setup sheet:
Did he uses all the components of the IAS steering? What does mean: gear box in 2 pic on the front and rear for mor flex? Did he uses floating top deck?

Thanks,
Hugo

Last edited by Hugo; 03-07-2012 at 12:06 AM.
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Old 03-06-2012, 03:32 PM   #1724
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oleg Babich View Post
You can find it here now:
http://awesomatix.com/download/
How about Ivans setup?
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Old 03-06-2012, 06:05 PM   #1725
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oleg Babich View Post
You can find it here now:
http://awesomatix.com/download/
Thanks Oleg,
That's pretty interesting as (bar the transverse) the setup I've bolted to the car for practise this weekend is not a million miles from this... slightly lower RC, softer bars (but then the transverse car rolls more than the long car), but otherwise very close to what Steen used.

Cheers
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