robk

iTrader: (22)

Ok, I just wanted to start something for F1 setup. The paint and build up threads are sweet, but I want to get into the racing end of it....

Does anyone have any experience with the difference between the F103GT front suspension (#51244)vs the regular F103 front suspension (#50503)? The GT front end has moving upper arms, vs the F103 arms just having kingpin movement, kinda like AE "new" front end vs the AE "old school" front end...

lotus1

iTrader: (21)

If built correctly,the old front end is not much different.A bit more smoothness from the newer one because of the whole arm motion.M

reenmachine

iTrader: (26)

Good idea for a thread -- the other F1 threads seem to be 98% about paint jobs. Nothing wrong with that, it just makes it hard to get tech info.

I've been running an F103RM on an outdoor asphalt track and have been having a ton of trouble getting it to handle worth a darn. It's set up according to the manual with the pivot ball rear suspension, and I think that's meant more for high-traction carpet racing or something. The car just has no forgiveness whatsoever -- the instant it starts to let go, it's gone. It turns in great but then oversteers like mad. I'm going to convert it to the O-ring suspension and give it another go.

robk

iTrader: (22)

That was the other question I had, o-ring vs. pivot ball...

Lotus, thanks

alana07

iTrader: (53)

reenmachine - you should have tighten up your rear damper disk, ie slower side pod movement will make the rear end more stable. you mentioned that you're running the pivot ball setup, i hope that you mean using 2 pivot balls for the t-bar and not the rearmost using pivot ball while the front using a o-ring setup. i've seen a f103rm using this setup, ie front of t-bar fitted with o-ring while rear part uses pivot ball....end result is the owner sold off the f103rm in less than 5 runs cos' it couldnt handle properly.

AreCee

iTrader: (1)

Rob,
I used both the O Ring and pivot ball back many years ago and opted for the O Ring to use at Trackside. The pivot ball was too reactive in my opinion but once you tune the friction plate and shock it starts to work well.

At least the pivot ball is easier to set up tweak.

As for the front, again we tried the movable arms and came back to the king pin spindles. Some of us use ball point pen springs or the black Tamiya springs (I think). That was when Scotty had his old place.

Dave

Foxxrocket

I agree with tighten up the rear damper disk. I had the same oversteering problem on asphalt. one of the drivers tightend up my damper plate, and it made a world of difference.

lotus1

iTrader: (21)

Ring vs balls.The balls are more reactive,as stated.The O rings will "dampen"/slow the motion of the rear.Used with the disc tightness/looseness,you can tune the roll in the corners vs straightening coming out of the turns(rear grip).Small tight/big sweeping tuning.I like the O rings with a loose disc...thick grease tho.Lotsa rear,with a smooth predictable roll.M

Foxxrocket

What electronics are you guys running in your cars? Right now, I'm using some really cheap stuff to run my car. But I want to switch to some more highend equipment.

TwoTone

iTrader: (12)

Not trying to hijack the tread. I loved racing F-1 and hav been thinking about trying it again.

The question I have is about your club rules. I've also always wanted one of those 6 wheeled F-1s Tayima put out. I assume most clubs wouldn't let you run one of those?

Ben.C

Have a few questions on tuning these cars.

Can someone explain how the damper plate pressure & the centre shock effect the handling

Thanks

reenmachine

iTrader: (26)

I wouldn't want to be in a club where they didn't let you run the good ol' Tyrrell P34! I'd LOVE to get one of those just for the fun of it. I believe they re-released them in recent years so it shouldn't be too hard to find.

TwoTone

iTrader: (12)

I've wanted one since I was a kid, and since I can't afford $3400 for a NIB Sand Scorcher- the P34 will have to do for my childhood fix.

reenmachine

iTrader: (26)

I hear you loud and clear. I still scour craigslist and the classifieds for that "misc RC junk for sale cheap" Tamiya SRB find.

When I win the lottery I am going to buy up all the NIB Sand Scorchers I can find. I'll build one for the shelf, one to run, and give the rest away to people like yourself who I know will appreciate them!

Vyger

iTrader: (2)

I’ve used the old style front end and the newer link type. When I tried the link type I also used the off set front axels. The combination of the two was horrible. The front end seemed inconsistent and numb at the same time. I think the numbing was caused from the trailing front axel. It gave it sort of a delay taking a set in the turns. The crisp steering that I was used to with the inline axle was gone. The inconsistent feeling was the frontend binding under load. The car would enter the corner, bind under load, then the suspension would compress. I tried all sorts or different viscosity greases to help dampen/lube the hinge pins and kingpins but nothing felt like the older type frontend.

The older type I’m referring to is the original F103 (two part) front end. I use the long kingpins (with three locations for e-clips) with a black spring. I put a small amount of Tamiya Hard grease on the king pin to give the front end more dampening. On the back side of the axel I use a set screw to secure the axel to the kingpin. This locks down the axel and nylon carrier, now the steering pivots on the kingpin. By doing this you can also eliminate the e-clip on the bottom side of the axle lowering the car a small amount. The car has always felt smooth and direct.