burito

Also on brushless motors it is important to oil the bearings from time to time, wrong gearing or wrong adjustments (timing or speedo) may also cause excessive heating which can result in bearing failure.

Nevertheless, in case of failure of the bearing you should call your countries LRP distributor and seek for advise from them.


@StickFingaz: the gap is normal and intended to be there, the housings should not touch eachother! The reason is that we want to clamp the stack laminates together and not the housing, so nothing to worry about.
Due to production tolerances of the laminates thickness the gap can vary by 0.3mm or so from motor to motor.

jonest

iTrader: (10)

Reto,

How do we access / oil the bearing on the sensor side?

Thanks.

Verndog

iTrader: (16)

I understand your initial responce of attempting to put the blame on the user to oil bearings and not overheat because thats part of your job...BUT, motor was never over 165 degs. motor timing was at stock settings, TCspec at profile2 (low power), geared 9.1 to 1 on a 5.5T, and less then 1hr. on the motor. The other motor that blew had 30-40 mins. on it!

This is plain and simple a case of poor quality / failed bearings, or possibly the rotor came apart and took the bearings with it, not user error. I will report back what LRP's decision is.

With all due respect, your friend better start looking for a few cards. Nobody in their right mind will waste that kind of time on a motor.

StickyFingaz

iTrader: (17)

Thanks for the response

burito

@Verndog: you're correct, there is obviously the chance (likely in your case!) that the bearing simply failed and there was no user error. This is why I recommended to speak to LRP agent in your country for servicing and I'm sure they'll take good care about it.

dameetz

I just bought an SXX TC Spec with X12 4t motor. On the included manual it says the factory recommendation for motor timing insert is 2dots which is X(Std). However my motor came with 4dots timing insert plugged in, and when I downloaded the on line manual it also says the 4dots X-10 is the factory recommendation setting. I m confuse now. Which timing insert should I use for start up?

BTW i m using this in a TC car with 7.4V Lipo, what SXX setting and FDR you can recommend for outdoor med-large track using foam tyres (not trued 64mm) and I m operating in a hot and humid tropical environtment (35deg C).

mok

iTrader: (9)

my recent experience tells me the endbell bearing collapsed taking the rotor with it.. possibly because it became unbalanced causing the rotor to slide along the shaft

it seems like the motor is fine so i've purchased another rotor and bearing..
just cant get the bearing remains out

any ideas?

Damon

probably the included manual is a copy of the first batch, while motor is already of the second batch...

follow the instructions of the downloaded manual, also for gearing, there are new gear ratios for motors with 4dots insert

burito

@dameetz: 4.0t with LiPo is VERY fast and not the wind I'd recommend to use with LiPo's... common winds for LiPo use in a touring car is 4.5 to 5.5, 5.0t seems like the best compromise and is what I'd recommend.
Otherwise is what Damon wrote (about timing/gearing) correct.

@mok: you can get the bearing out with a flat screwdriver from behind (where usually the sensor unit is, you need to remove that) and a few gentle taps to the screwdriver. It's not difficult, just do the taps all around the bearing (so it goes out straight).

Damon

of course, but in some track it can be useful

for example sometimes I use 4.0t+lipo on this track:

dameetz

I dont mind if its too fast Some of my friends are using 3.5T with 7.4V Lipo too. Honestly I nearly bought X12 3.0T with the SXX. Now my next q, will the X12 4.0T harm the SXX for that matter? I still have the option of changing the motor back to my LHS for a 4.5t or 5.0t as you recommend, coz I haven't use it yet. If the SXX can handle the 4.0t with 7.4V Lipo with no problem then I stick to it.

jonest

iTrader: (10)

Wouldn't the combo of 4.5t+Lipo = Lipo swell? that's a lot of raw power demand coming from the motor!!!

jonest

iTrader: (10)

Reto,

Finally I managed to get a decent speed from my 6.5t X12 + SXX (profile: 2,6,2,2) at the local track (long straight: 140ft +-) with an FDR at 7.2 but the motor temp is around 92deg celcius, is this ok? Should I drop the FDR to 7.3?

Thanks.

Yokomo_Ant3

iTrader: (29)

4.0 and lipo is no worries. I use it on the sxx, and it is fine. Everyone in Aus that races Mod are using 4.0, and 4.5 turn motors with lipo. As for FDR, go for around 9.0. I run 8.4 on my 4.5 turn x12, and 8.8 on the sp 4.0, so 9.0 should be in the ball park. Just watch the motor temps as these motors get very hot. Also with the speedie setting i would run 1,2-3,0,0. This is what i use and its good. You can turnthe punch up a bit more if you want, depending on traction, and if you likke drag brake etc, muck around with that.

Hope that helps

Antoni

billythekid

iTrader: (9)

LRP X12 is known to fail quicker than other motors, especially the early batches. The 2 things that fail the most often are the bearing and the magnet. When you try to speak to anyone at LRP about the problem, the first thing they would do is to blame you .... wrong gear ratio, overheating etc. This is just their way of doing business. The upside is this motor is pretty quick.