LRP Vector x12 Brushless Motors
#647
If you can direct a little air at the motor you can lower the temp 10' or so. If you just can't live with it you can also put a fan on it.
#648
Tech Elite
iTrader: (63)
Sorry to bring this thread back up but I got a few problems with a LRP Vector X-12 motor 13.5
What is the average operating temps for these things?
I can not get the damn temp under 180.
I have gone from a 30/69 gearing to 26/72 gearing.
It's killing me. I want it a little cooler if possible.. Do these motors like to be ran hot? It doesn't seem to be effecting power at 180 but I would rather not smoke this motor I just got it.
thanks for any help
Setup is a B4.1 Buggy with a Viper VTX10 ESC in blinky mode stock timing on the motor. Current gearing is 26/72 came off the track after 5 min at 178.
I am going to try a high Spur tomorrow. and see what happens
What is the average operating temps for these things?
I can not get the damn temp under 180.
I have gone from a 30/69 gearing to 26/72 gearing.
It's killing me. I want it a little cooler if possible.. Do these motors like to be ran hot? It doesn't seem to be effecting power at 180 but I would rather not smoke this motor I just got it.
thanks for any help
Setup is a B4.1 Buggy with a Viper VTX10 ESC in blinky mode stock timing on the motor. Current gearing is 26/72 came off the track after 5 min at 178.
I am going to try a high Spur tomorrow. and see what happens
Check what the stock timing is, make certain its 4 dot facing the outside of the motor , 2 dot was standard on my x12 motors and 4 dot will run better and cooler
#653
Hi guys!
My Nosram Pure Evolution Spec 10,5T motor stopped working properly. The motor is not running when throttle is applied, and it works when you turn the rotor manually. We've opened it and figured out that the contact on one of the 3 phases has melted (if you understand?). We have put new contact on the phases with solder but knew it wouldn't last for long since it should be silver (if I am right?), and it lasted for 3 runs. This melted probably because the motor was running very hot (100 degrees C). The motor is also missing the little plastic shim. My question is what are the dimensions of the shim, plus I suppose it must be plastic, and am I right in resoldering the phases with silver? I'd like to be sure before I go into a DIY repair of an expensive part. I'm in no hurry because I'm running my spare motor without problems
My Nosram Pure Evolution Spec 10,5T motor stopped working properly. The motor is not running when throttle is applied, and it works when you turn the rotor manually. We've opened it and figured out that the contact on one of the 3 phases has melted (if you understand?). We have put new contact on the phases with solder but knew it wouldn't last for long since it should be silver (if I am right?), and it lasted for 3 runs. This melted probably because the motor was running very hot (100 degrees C). The motor is also missing the little plastic shim. My question is what are the dimensions of the shim, plus I suppose it must be plastic, and am I right in resoldering the phases with silver? I'd like to be sure before I go into a DIY repair of an expensive part. I'm in no hurry because I'm running my spare motor without problems
#654
Tech Apprentice
Seing this thread has come up, I had a question : I'm running a Speed passion GT 2.0 esc with a LRP x 12 13.5 motor.
At the end of each run, my motor is crazy hot (about 110 degrees Celcius)
My current pinion is 37t. I have a 113 spur gear. My fdr is 5.9 at the moment.
When i went smaller pinion it would get even hotter, and with a bigger pinion it would also get hotter. So i currently stayed on 37t with 5.9 gearing.
Can anybody point me in the right direction, because at the end of runs, I loose power/braking ... I'm thinking of changing motor.
By the way, I run the 4 dot insert but not facing me. 4 dots facing inside motor.
At the end of each run, my motor is crazy hot (about 110 degrees Celcius)
My current pinion is 37t. I have a 113 spur gear. My fdr is 5.9 at the moment.
When i went smaller pinion it would get even hotter, and with a bigger pinion it would also get hotter. So i currently stayed on 37t with 5.9 gearing.
Can anybody point me in the right direction, because at the end of runs, I loose power/braking ... I'm thinking of changing motor.
By the way, I run the 4 dot insert but not facing me. 4 dots facing inside motor.
#655
Tech Adept
bliky or boosted ? what is your soft in the ESC ?
The motor run best with the - 10, you have to see the 4 dot
The motor run best with the - 10, you have to see the 4 dot
#656
Tech Apprentice
Okay, I have changed the insert from +10 to -10. I think my motor will run much much cooler but the thing is that I now have alot less power/speed. Before, with the +10 timing, I managed to keep up with the 10.5 guys, now I will look like a sitting duck. I know slower can actually be faster, but if you had any tip on how to get more speed, what would they be ?
My gearing is 5.9 fdr on a 69ft x 35ft carpet track.
Thanks alot
#657
Tech Adept
Put all the timing on the ESC, stay with the -10 and adjust the FDR to not excess 90 degres celcius. I think you will be near of 5.0 fdr for a large asphalt track
Or switch your old soft for a newer...
Or switch your old soft for a newer...
#658
Tech Apprentice
I guess I will adjust gearing, but how do I know which way to go ? (Smaller pinion from my current one, or bigger pinion ? How do I know which one to go for as both would reach 90 if overgeared )
And I will get newer software as soon as I get the programming card
#659
Tech Adept
I think 6.5 should be a safe starting point on a small carpet track. Then adjust to have a good speed and not excess 90 degres celcius.
-10 is the best way, used on blinky and boosted
-10 is the best way, used on blinky and boosted