GT3
 

There has been some discussion in the VTA thread about GT3 racing. After someone suggested it, I decided to start a thread about it. Hopefully the guys who are doing this will jump in and give us an idea whats going on with this class.

Is this a class specific to your region or is it widespread?

Our local club ran a GT3 class,it was any all wheel drive TC with a tub chassis,any tire,any gear, but had to be a tamiya sliver can motor,and tamiya body, and any 6 cell battery, I think it was the best racing we had at our track.

...Start by letting us know what exactly a GT3 is..

Type of Car (Body)
Type of Chassis (2wd or 4wd, etc)
Power Plant (Motor and Battery)

Were 2S lipo's legal or 6 cell packs only?

My understanding is that the clubs that run GT3 are basing it on Porsche GT3 racing and thus using 911 based bodies. I started this thread because I heard about some clubs that were doing this and I wanted to know more.

There is also a FIA racing class called GT3 which includes many more cars than the Porsche GT3.

GT3 is the mainstay class at Seattle Indoor Raceway. It's any TC chassis, 6c NiMH/7.4V Lipo, rubber tire, any body, Tamiya silver can motor. We run a "spec" version with a 5.72 FDR limit, and a "comp" version with no FDR limit. From beginners to vets, it's fantastic.

The following silver can "tricks" are straight-up cheating:

Anything that opens the can.
Cranking the arm.
Zapping the magnets, either electrically or with external rare earth magnets.
Crimping the brush springs.

There is no honor in winning with the above practices.

Acceptable silver can preparation and maintenance includes:

Motor spray.
Comm drops.
Cleaning the comm with Brasso.
Boiling water to ice bath at break-in.
Water dipping at break-in.

It's not required, but vet racers are encouraged to run a scale body. Both Tamiya and HPI make cool ones. Otherwise, it's full-on.

We bring new racers in all the time and we know exactly what to tell them to do: Run GT3. We've had a lot of success bringing racers up. Every track should run this class.

Actually over the summer we were running 6 cell VTA and GT3.

We went 6 cell VTA because people did not want to make 4 cell packs for 1 class, myself included. Our class became more of a class geared for those that can drive vs those that are new into racing. The tires would go through many different transitions from no grip to great grip to no grip in a 8 min race.

GT3 was fun but some guys started showing up with doctored motors near the end of the season. We like racing for fun and the rules are pretty loose it is difficult with Mabuchi's and keeping those with a advantage out. If tracks like SIR are dedicated to a level race program that can scrutinize it with a FDR, that is a better way to go. Although checking motors can be more hassle than it is worth.

Next year we are looking to run a NASCAR Vintage Stinger class. All in our group seem to be NASCAR fans and seemed to make sense. We wanted to mix the elements of GT3 and the VTA we ran. We will run COT bodies, Vintage tires and 20t stinger motors. The stinger is pretty common and will be as fast as most doctored motors. Unless someone shows up with something else (like a 15t), which we will turn away. The stinger is low on torque so tire issues should not be a problem. We have a buzz going about it, April 2009 seems like a long way to wait, it is all good though...

I like the sound of that, but I have never even seen a stinger. For that reason I think I would just go with 19t or 13.5.

GT3 is Tamiya's super slow sedan class using their sealed silver can motor. Most experienced racers coming from non-tamiya venues like to call it Novice, but in reality it fits a wider range of racers. The Tamiya GT3 has many limitations on things like chassis & tires that most clubs tend to ignore in favor of making it a more cost effective and/or accessible class. The GT3 concept is similar to what TA was supposed to be in that the class is designed in such a way that newer & slower racers don't feel so overwhelmed.

Personally I view it as the best option for beginners on their way up & less skilled racers that might feel overwhelmed running something faster.

Mark

We don't really check motors, guys are left to their own conscience on the cheating subject. It's pretty well accepted what's out of bounds, and it's usually pretty obvious if someone is cheating. There was a big magnetic timing advance session earlier this year. I held a silver can that cogged like a CO27 (it didn't actually run that fast.) But sportsmanship is sportsmanship. There's nothing like the feeling of superiority to be had when you hand it to someone who's tried to gain an illicit advantage. It's worth the occasional time they have the upper hand.

The guys I race with locally just buy and run what they get as far as silver cans go. Usually they break in brushes and bushings, that is it. Sometimes you get non-locals with other motives.

I wish there was a tamper proof motor like a mabuchi/johnson but does not seem there. With the stinger motor usually it will run as fast as any doctored motor and is readily avaiable to order through a LHS.

i think a 'tub/obsolete' class with a select motor/battery/tire combo is a great idea. its what was missed in VTA where now its mostly folks using their 007s, mi3s, phi's, tc5s etc.

R

I have thought that myself that the newer TC chassis should be kept out of the VTA series. I think thats a lot to keep up with. When do you decide that a Chassis is no longer competitive in mainstream TC competition? Im using a Yokomo SD as my VTA car but some people are still using it in Touring. On the other hand I am having to run my car against Cyclones and T007's. Most of the field is still the older cars, but you cant keep people from using their best gear.

Yeah I have to agree that'd be very difficult to police. Especially when people do partial upgrades on their kits, such as T2'007 updates or something to that nature.

Let the chassis be what it is. From what I've seen with the class, chassis limitations are needed.

PB