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1/10 R/C F1's...Pics, Discussions, Whatever...

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1/10 R/C F1's...Pics, Discussions, Whatever...

Old 01-18-2013, 10:59 PM
  #6811  
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Originally Posted by B00t13g
Well I ordered a Kyosho f1! Should be fun seeing as it will be my first f1 and every other Kyosho product I've used has been fantastic!
Just be prepared to narrow it if your track runs strict width rules. It is a good looking kit though.
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Old 01-19-2013, 12:23 AM
  #6812  
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FGX and F1R to the race tomorrow! F104v2 stays home.
Fgx hasn't been touched since the last race because I am not going to fix what is not broken.
F1r got 571s up front. And it also got 34 pinion instead of 36. And it has thinner roll damper lube.
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Old 01-19-2013, 05:55 AM
  #6813  
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Originally Posted by The Captain
How are you guys routing the wire for the low profile servos? I got a futaba s9551 and the wire is coming out towards the front of the car, making it pretty difficult to route.
I folded the wire under the servo. Then used 1mm shims as a temporary spacer as I taped the servo into the Tamiya plastic holder. The wire pops out the side/back and around the rear of the front suspension bolt.
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Old 01-19-2013, 06:02 AM
  #6814  
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Default 3Racing F113

We had 2-3 of them show up today at our first league race in Shanghai.

They looked smooth, but still couldn't compete with the traditional front end cars being about .5 seconds off the pace. Maybe when the team drivers get more experience they'll get faster. But so far, nothing to worry about.
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Old 01-19-2013, 06:43 AM
  #6815  
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Originally Posted by xevias
I folded the wire under the servo. Then used 1mm shims as a temporary spacer as I taped the servo into the Tamiya plastic holder. The wire pops out the side/back and around the rear of the front suspension bolt.
That's what I was thinking, argh, means I gotta take it all apart again maybe ill just figure something else out until I get the exotek servo mount in.
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Old 01-19-2013, 07:23 AM
  #6816  
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Now my next problem, my ball studs are not long enough to put a spacer in to get the arms level on the steering servo. Are the tamiya spacers threaded? If so, what's the part number? I read I need 4mm to get the arms level.
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Old 01-19-2013, 08:31 AM
  #6817  
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B00t13g did you get the old school impress or sr-5, or would it be the new kyosho thats been released?
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Old 01-19-2013, 08:39 AM
  #6818  
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Originally Posted by edhchoe
Wow.
I thought 3 was getting one too many. How do you spread the love among them?
well at least three times a years my friends and i race for the BLASTF1 championship! I think i have 45 total, 17 different types of chassis to chose from, a true f1 constructors championship.
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Old 01-19-2013, 09:44 AM
  #6819  
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Originally Posted by The Captain
Now my next problem, my ball studs are not long enough to put a spacer in to get the arms level on the steering servo. Are the tamiya spacers threaded? If so, what's the part number? I read I need 4mm to get the arms level.
When you run the wire under the servo after raising it a bit, that 4mm will be more like 6mm. I got long threaded ball studs from a Tamiya 417 and secured it with nuts.

Any 3mm ball stud will work. It will probably be easier for you to find an AE ones in C-U.

When you order them, remember to get 10-12mm long, 3mm set screws for front droop adjustments. Use them to replace the Tamiya washer and button screw that comes in from the top. The grub screw will come in from the bottom. Makes droop so much easier to change and you don't have to pop the arms off to do it.
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Old 01-19-2013, 09:01 PM
  #6820  
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Originally Posted by The Captain
Where are you guys mounting your shorty lipos, esc, and rx with the f104 pro (non v2) chassis? Trying to figure out where to put everything without the side pods. I'm guessing you want the battery all the way forward, which leaves the rear for mounting the esc. The problem with this is the tplate. I was thinking I can just put a piece of thin material down to mount the esc on, over top the tplate, and it shouldn't mess with the flex of the tplate. The only other option I see is mounting the esc all the way up front, with the rx, and then the battery behind them.
A little late but here is my set up. I took off the top deck so you can see it better.

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Old 01-19-2013, 10:01 PM
  #6821  
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Thanks guys! Fellow racer set me up with some threaded ball studs, thanks Nate!
Current setup


Didn't have enough for a class to race, but I did get some track time. Immediately noticed the difference with the servo. I was previously using a s3005 which was painfully slow. I had to use expo to keep from over steering. Now that I have a shorty pack, run all the way forward, the car is much more twitchy, and sensitive to steering input. It was drivable though, just need to get used to the new setup, and being able to turn later than sooner.
Edit: couldn't get the servo any farther back to get the linkages parallel to the arms, is this bad?

I am running the tcs tires right now, and noticed the longer you run, the worse they get after about 5min. I am guessing I should start setting up my car to work better after the tires start getting "loose", instead of setting it to work best when they are hooked up really good. The mains in an upcoming series will be 15min.

Another thing I noticed after running more than 5 min is the car really started to pull to the left on power. This started right when the tires started getting loose, and got worse and worse the longer I ran. We will be running the pardus tires for the series, and the other guy running tonight after the races noted the same issue as I, right around the same runtime. He was running the pardus tires. Braking became bad at this time too. Braking in a straight line resulted in the car pulling bad to the left. This could have been the brake amount though, can probably lower it some more.

I haven't messed with the punch control, don't even know if the Novak edge has it or not. I could put some expo on the throttle if not.

Ad finally, the front end skips quite a bit around the 180 turns, the rear does this too, but not as bad. It got through the turns good enough, but it seems like it could be faster if the tires were planted the entire time.

I've asked this before, but can someone link me to a good tuning guide for these? Are things like droop and ride height the same same as on a touring car? I don t even know where to being on the damper, what exactly it does and how it effects handling. Maybe a setup guide for tplate pan cars? This is my first pan car, and I am still learning how to properly set up touring cars and what changes do what, so I kinda need things explained in detail for me to understand.

This is by far my favorite class yet! I actually think they are fairly easy to drive in comparison to my VTA car. I think that has to do with the fact that you drive these more like a 1:1 rwd car, which I can relate to.

Thanks for any setup advice or opinions, I'm really wanting to learn as much as I can.


Anyone know where to get replacement blue turnbuckles? Mine are getting beat up using the included wrench, really need to invest in a good quality one.

Last edited by The Captain; 01-20-2013 at 12:26 AM.
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Old 01-20-2013, 12:09 AM
  #6822  
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Originally Posted by eff one
Anyone else hoarding f1s
We were so blown away by eff one's 40 x F1's that we had to contact him and find out his story. You can read about it and see more pics here:

http://rcformula1.com.au/index.php/h...1s-do-you-need
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Old 01-20-2013, 01:11 AM
  #6823  
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Hi i just bought my first f1 its tamiya f104 WGP but im having a problem with my front wheel bearings that came with the kit is smaller than the wheel that i bought. is there my special front wheel for this kit? I tried my friend's front wheels and it fit but seems like the front have more negative offset than the rear which makes it look kinda funny.
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Old 01-20-2013, 07:14 AM
  #6824  
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Originally Posted by frozencone
Hi i just bought my first f1 its tamiya f104 WGP but im having a problem with my front wheel bearings that came with the kit is smaller than the wheel that i bought. is there my special front wheel for this kit? I tried my friend's front wheels and it fit but seems like the front have more negative offset than the rear which makes it look kinda funny.
Hi mate,
You need to run F103 wheels and tyres on the WGP, I currently use Ride 25000 and 250001 with A fronts and B rears on hot dusty asphalt. The 104W also run's F103 front wheel bearings if you ever need to order spares.

Cheers
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Old 01-20-2013, 08:10 AM
  #6825  
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Which one did you order?
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